Anatomy of a Vehicle Electrical System
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The importance of having an operational warning light for the alternator (idiot light) is crucial to catching problems early. In most modern systems, the electrical current passing through the filament of the warning light is what energizes a circuit in the alternator to start charging.
To check the warning light circuit, turn the ignition switch to the “on” position without cranking or starting the engine; if the idiot light does not come on, remove the plug from the alternator and ground the sense wire (wire connected to the bulb). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the alternator is defective; if the light still does not come on, the wiring to the light circuit and the bulb should be checked.
Don’t forget to check the fuse that controls the light circuit, too. This fuse could be labeled differently in various cars. It could be labeled “charging”, “regulator”, “meters”, “gauges” or “engine”. In some cars, if the fuse is out, the idiot light will come on but may not go off. In others (like GM), a burned out fuse may make the warning light work in reverse order; that is, when the key is on, the light is off but as soon as the engine starts and the alternator starts charging, the light will come on.
Checking further into charge light indicators, in some cases it is normal for the charge indicator light to come on when nothing is wrong with the alternator.
According to information published by GM, any car may have a low voltage reading or lights that dim when electrical loads are heavy at idle. Furthermore, this condition is normal and no repairs should be attempted unless a fault has been found.
If a car idles for extended periods of time during high heat conditions, the heat within the alternator increases, the electrical resistance in the alternator also increases, which reduces the alternator’s charging capacity.
With the alternator’s capacity for charging reduced by heat and other factors, an alternator may only be able to produce up to 70% of its rated output. So an alternator rated for 100 amps may only be able to produce 70 amps when hot at idle when there is 77 or more amps of demand on it.
In the case of Delco CS series alternators, there is a tool available from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B), which isolates the alternator from the car’s wiring harness and shows whether the alternator is at fault, or whether there is a wiring problem elsewhere within the car’s wiring harness. The best thing about this tool, besides being compact and handheld, is that it doesn’t require any interpretation of data by the operator. The little light on the unit lights or doesn’t light, depending upon whether the alternator is good or not.
To check the warning light circuit, turn the ignition switch to the “on” position without cranking or starting the engine; if the idiot light does not come on, remove the plug from the alternator and ground the sense wire (wire connected to the bulb). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the alternator is defective; if the light still does not come on, the wiring to the light circuit and the bulb should be checked.
Don’t forget to check the fuse that controls the light circuit, too. This fuse could be labeled differently in various cars. It could be labeled “charging”, “regulator”, “meters”, “gauges” or “engine”. In some cars, if the fuse is out, the idiot light will come on but may not go off. In others (like GM), a burned out fuse may make the warning light work in reverse order; that is, when the key is on, the light is off but as soon as the engine starts and the alternator starts charging, the light will come on.
Checking further into charge light indicators, in some cases it is normal for the charge indicator light to come on when nothing is wrong with the alternator.
According to information published by GM, any car may have a low voltage reading or lights that dim when electrical loads are heavy at idle. Furthermore, this condition is normal and no repairs should be attempted unless a fault has been found.
If a car idles for extended periods of time during high heat conditions, the heat within the alternator increases, the electrical resistance in the alternator also increases, which reduces the alternator’s charging capacity.
With the alternator’s capacity for charging reduced by heat and other factors, an alternator may only be able to produce up to 70% of its rated output. So an alternator rated for 100 amps may only be able to produce 70 amps when hot at idle when there is 77 or more amps of demand on it.
In the case of Delco CS series alternators, there is a tool available from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B), which isolates the alternator from the car’s wiring harness and shows whether the alternator is at fault, or whether there is a wiring problem elsewhere within the car’s wiring harness. The best thing about this tool, besides being compact and handheld, is that it doesn’t require any interpretation of data by the operator. The little light on the unit lights or doesn’t light, depending upon whether the alternator is good or not.
It is important to keep all connections clean and tight to avoid corrosion, resistance and arcing. The must important places to check for poor connections are the battery, alternator and starter.
Below you can find descriptions of three types of crimping tools. Please see “Proper Crimping 101″ for information on how to make correct terminal crimps.
Electrical circuits require voltage to operate the components connected to the specific circuit. So if there is no voltage, there is no function. When troubleshooting electrical problems, it is good to check for voltage at the load point in the circuit.
The load point is the element that the circuit provides power to. It could be a light bulb, wiper motor, blower motor, etc. The load point can be checked with a voltmeter or a 12-volt test light. A voltmeter is the better choice because it will give you an exact voltage reading, although a test light will work fine for performing quick voltage checks.
If there is no voltage found at the load point, you should first check the fuse, fuse link or circuit breaker that protects the circuit, or the power relay that supplies voltage to the circuit.
If the problem is a blown fuse, replacing the fuse may restore power temporarily, but unless the underlying cause for the overload is found and corrected, your “fix” probably will not last. Whatever you do, do not substitute a fuse of greater capacity! A larger fuse may be able to handle a greater load but the wiring and the rest of the circuit cannot. A circuit designed for a 10 amp fuse is designed to handle a maximum of 10 amps.
A faulty circuit breaker or an open relay will have the same effect as a blown fuse. Circuit breakers are often used to protect circuits that may experience brief periods of overloading such as an A/C compressor clutch.
One way to check a circuit breaker is with a test light. Attach wire side of the test light to a known good ground and touch the metal tip of the test light to each side of the circuit breaker contact. If the test light glows when you touch each contact, the circuit breaker is good. If only one side glows, the circuit breaker is bad and you should replace it.
The load point is the element that the circuit provides power to. It could be a light bulb, wiper motor, blower motor, etc. The load point can be checked with a voltmeter or a 12-volt test light. A voltmeter is the better choice because it will give you an exact voltage reading, although a test light will work fine for performing quick voltage checks.
If there is no voltage found at the load point, you should first check the fuse, fuse link or circuit breaker that protects the circuit, or the power relay that supplies voltage to the circuit.
If the problem is a blown fuse, replacing the fuse may restore power temporarily, but unless the underlying cause for the overload is found and corrected, your “fix” probably will not last. Whatever you do, do not substitute a fuse of greater capacity! A larger fuse may be able to handle a greater load but the wiring and the rest of the circuit cannot. A circuit designed for a 10 amp fuse is designed to handle a maximum of 10 amps.
A faulty circuit breaker or an open relay will have the same effect as a blown fuse. Circuit breakers are often used to protect circuits that may experience brief periods of overloading such as an A/C compressor clutch.
One way to check a circuit breaker is with a test light. Attach wire side of the test light to a known good ground and touch the metal tip of the test light to each side of the circuit breaker contact. If the test light glows when you touch each contact, the circuit breaker is good. If only one side glows, the circuit breaker is bad and you should replace it.
Do you know your fuses?
A fuse is a device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit. The melting of the element occurs when the electrical current exceeds a specified level for a specified time. This action is irreversible and the fuse must be replaced after the circuit malfunction is repaired.
A fuse is a temperature-sensitive device. This means that changes in ambient temperature, external heat sources (such as other fuses) and external heat sinks (such as conducting wires) affect the fuse.
Fuse ratings are based on an ambient temperature of 77°F. Higher ambient temperatures will lower the effective fuse rating, and the fuse will open quicker for a given overload current.
Autofuse (ATO) & Minifuse
Blow times at % of rated current – at 77°F | |||||||
Amp Rating | 100% | 135% | 200% | 600% | |||
Color | Min (hours) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Max (sec) | |
5A | Tan | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
7.5A | Brown | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
10A | Red | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
15A | Blue | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
20A | Yellow | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
25A | White | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
30A | Green | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
Maxifuse
Unlike previous high current circuit protection devices (e.g.: fusible links) the Maxifuse was designed to protect cables from both direct short circuits and resistive short circuits, without damaging the device itself. This is due to the higher temperature insulating materials used to house the Maxifuse element and the element design. Compared to Minifuse, Maxifuse opening times are longer.
Blow times at % of rated current – at 77°F | |||||||
Amp Rating | 100% | 135% | 200% | 600% | |||
Color | Min (hours) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Max (sec) | |
20A | Yellow | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 4 | 20 | 1 |
25A | Gray | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 4 | 20 | 1 |
30A | Green | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 6 | 20 | 1 |
40A | Amber | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 8 | 20 | 1 |
50A | Red | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 10 | 20 | 1 |
60A | Blue | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 15 | 20 | 1 |
Megafuse
The Megafuse is designed for high current protection of the battery/alternator system. It has a bolt-down design to facilitate easy installation and replacement. Similar to the Maxifuse, the Megafuse is engineered with time delayed characteristics to allow for high in-rush currents.
Amp Rating | Blow times at % of rated current – at 77°F | |||||
100% | 135% | 200% | 600% | |||
Min (hours) | Min (sec) | Min (sec) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Max (sec) | |
125A | 4 | 120 | 1800 | 1 | 15 | 1 |
175A | 4 | 120 | 1800 | 1 | 15 | 1 |
Fuses, fusible links, and circuit breakers protect an electrical circuit from damage caused by overload or short circuit. Fuses and fusible links operate once and then have to be replaced; a circuit breaker can be reset (either manually or automatically) to resume normal operation.
GM Headlight Switch Circuit Descriptions:
0. Ground output wire through the rheostat.
1. 12 volt battery unfused feed into H/L switch circuit breaker
• Feeds power to #7 when headlight switch is in “Park lights on” position.
• Feeds power to #6 when headlight switch is in “Headlights on” position.
2. Draws Power from #5 12 volt fused battery “PARK LIGHT” feed.
• Feed to Instrument panel lights fuse on fuse panel.
• Also has continuity with #3, #4, #5
3. Usually hard wired to #4 by brass strip on surface of headlight switch.
• Optional “full time” parking lamp feed
4. Draws Power from #5 12 volt fuse battery “PARK LIGHT” feed.
• Comes on when headlight switch is in “Parking Lights On” position.
• Stays on when headlight switch is in “Headlights On” position.
5. Fuse 12 volt battery feed from fuse panel
• Provides power to #2, #3, and #4
6. Main Headlight power out to Dimmer switch through internal circuit breaker
• From #1 12volt battery feed
7. Draws Power from #1 12 volt battery feed to feed parking lamps.
• Used for pre-1968 parking lights.
• Goes on when headlight switch is in “Parking Lights On” position. (1st click)
• Goes off when headlight switch is in “Headlights On” position. (2nd click)
The main cause of most automotive electrical problems is caused by a bad ground situation. Always keep in mind that a circuit has to be complete. This means that the current has to be able to travel from a good ground to the positive side of the energy source in order to operate. Do not rely on just the negative battery cable as the only ground; always incorporate a separate ground wire or cable from the engine block to the chassis.
The low fuel indicator is a small round plastic can containing four wires that is in the gauge package. It is not crucial to the operation of the gauges. In fact, many gauge clusters removed them when they were not functional. The module plugs into the fuel gauge for power, signal, and ground. There is a fourth yellow wire that comes from the module that goes to the dash through the console harness and the dash harness console extension to activate a light in the instrument cluster. However, here is where the problem arises.
The 1967 low fuel module operates by sending a 12 volt power signal on the yellow wire to a single contact bulb mounted in the dash cluster underneath the circuit board. The bulb has grounding tangs that ground the bulb through the instrument cluster body.
The 1968 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to one of the 12 pin instrument cluster connector contacts. This subsequently lights a low fuel indicator bulb through the circuit board connection on the back of the cluster. This circuit board is different for a warning light versus a factory console gauge car.
The 1969 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to a bulb located in the instrument cluster light pods at the bottom of the dash.
The low fuel modules are not interchangeable.
The 1967 low fuel module operates by sending a 12 volt power signal on the yellow wire to a single contact bulb mounted in the dash cluster underneath the circuit board. The bulb has grounding tangs that ground the bulb through the instrument cluster body.
The 1968 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to one of the 12 pin instrument cluster connector contacts. This subsequently lights a low fuel indicator bulb through the circuit board connection on the back of the cluster. This circuit board is different for a warning light versus a factory console gauge car.
The 1969 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to a bulb located in the instrument cluster light pods at the bottom of the dash.
The low fuel modules are not interchangeable.
Unfortunately, this situation does come up from time to time with our 1967 Chevy Impala, Super Sport, Caprice, Bel air, and Biscayne owners. Believe it or not, there were actually a fair amount of early 1967 built cars that escaped the factory with mis-indexed original rear body harnesses. The assembly line workers at the various assembly plants would just swap the wires at the fusebox area to make everything operate properly. However, at American Autowire, we build all of our harnesses to the latest revision of the OEM engineering drawings, which were corrected very early on in the production process to alleviate this deficiency. Therefore, there will be a few of these anomaly cars out there that need the wires in that main connector switched to make the harness and vehicle operate properly.
If you run into this situation, contact our tech support staff at 1-800-482-9473. They may be able to help you do a field repair, or assist you in returning the products to us so that we may make the change for you here and send the updated harness back to you right away.
If you run into this situation, contact our tech support staff at 1-800-482-9473. They may be able to help you do a field repair, or assist you in returning the products to us so that we may make the change for you here and send the updated harness back to you right away.
The points distributor used a resistance to lower the voltage to the points in the run position to prevent wear on the points. This was done with either an external ballast resistor or a resistance wire in the ignition circuit depending on the year of the car. For starting purposes, there was a 12 volt override supplied by a separate wire from the “R” terminal on the starter solenoid to the ignition coil. When converting to an HEI there are three issues which must be addressed. The first concerns the resistance in the run circuit. The second concerns the gauge of wire feeding the HEI distributor. The third concerns the starter 12 volt override and the ignition switch. When using HEI, the distributor requires a 12 volt feed. In order to achieve this the ballast resistor or the resistance wire must be removed from the circuit and replaced with a pure 12 gauge feed wire. This feed wire must be 12 gauge from the ignition switch to the bulkhead and then from the bulkhead to the HEI power terminal. This solves the first two concerns. The third situation can be solved in two ways. The original 12 volt override wire from the starter solenoid “R” terminal to the ignition coil must be retained and must be doubled up with the new 12 volt ignition feed before the wires are plugged into the HEI power terminal. The reason this is necessary is that the ignition switch is mutually exclusive in the crank and run positions. This means that there is no power on the “RUN” circuit when the ignition switch is in the “CRANK” mode. Subsequently, without the lead wire from the starter solenoid “R” terminal, the car won’t start. An alternative solution involves changing the ignition switch to one that supplies 12 volts on the “RUN” circuit when the ignition is in “CRANK” mode. With this type of ignition switch, a 12 volt override wire from the starter is not necessary. Subsequently, if your starter had an “R” terminal and you changed the ignition switch as described here, the original 12 volt override wire could be eliminated.
Unfortunately, this is a question that we receive quite regularly. There are 3 different applications for these console gauge conversion wire harness kits. They are as follows: Column shift automatic TO floor shift automatic with gauges; floor shift automatic TO floor shift automatic with gauges; and any column or floor shifted manual, with or without a console TO floor shift manual with gauges. If you car DOES NOT fit one of these scenarios, you WILL NOT be able to use an adapter harness to operate your new gauge set. In an instance such as yours, where the configuration of the car has changed to include a different style of transmission (auto. vs. manual), the ONLY alternative is to contact us or your favorite dealer to purchase the CORRECT underdash and engine compartment wire harnesses for your new application as all three harnesses are affected by the addition of the tach and gauges.
Speaking of a tach, that also adds another wrinkle to this situation. ALL 67-9 Camaro console gauge equipped cars came mandatory with a factory tach up in the dash cluster that replaced the fuel gauge. If you are adding gauges, you MUST also add the factory dash tach in place of the fuel gauge.
The deciding factor in whether the kit will work in your car is what connector exists (or doesn’t exist) down at the heater deflector area on the transmission tunnel. The wire kits are designed to be plug and play with no cutting or splicing necessary. When we change a transmission, there are several factors that now become an issue such as back up lamps, neutral safety switch wiring, power feeds and how they get energized, etc.
We have recently updated all of the wiring directions for the various kits and they can now be found posted on our instructions website for your viewing pleasure. These all-new, full color instructions WILL work with older kits as nothing was changed from a manufacturing standpoint. If you just need clarification on some items on your kit, I strongly urge you visit this site and take in these exciting new instructions as they are much easier to follow since they are specific to each part numbered kit now.
Speaking of a tach, that also adds another wrinkle to this situation. ALL 67-9 Camaro console gauge equipped cars came mandatory with a factory tach up in the dash cluster that replaced the fuel gauge. If you are adding gauges, you MUST also add the factory dash tach in place of the fuel gauge.
The deciding factor in whether the kit will work in your car is what connector exists (or doesn’t exist) down at the heater deflector area on the transmission tunnel. The wire kits are designed to be plug and play with no cutting or splicing necessary. When we change a transmission, there are several factors that now become an issue such as back up lamps, neutral safety switch wiring, power feeds and how they get energized, etc.
We have recently updated all of the wiring directions for the various kits and they can now be found posted on our instructions website for your viewing pleasure. These all-new, full color instructions WILL work with older kits as nothing was changed from a manufacturing standpoint. If you just need clarification on some items on your kit, I strongly urge you visit this site and take in these exciting new instructions as they are much easier to follow since they are specific to each part numbered kit now.
What is causing your problem is the extra load on the headlight and dimmer switches, as well as the entire wiring system from those new halogen bulbs you installed. In general, even stock type sealed beam replacement halogen bulbs will draw a bit more current than their older incandescent style counterparts. If you get into some of the brighter type H-4 systems, that current draw will be even higher. The lighting circuit in your car is protected by a thermal circuit breaker located inside the headlamp switch. What you were experiencing was the tripping and re-setting of that circuit breaker due to a thermal overload, not a dead short. Replacing the headlamp switch with a new one may fix the situation, albeit very temporarily, but most times will do nothing at all. The problem will continue to persist. Even though it seems that the headlamp switch is carrying the entire load, there are several other factors that can come into play here. Anytime you make a connection to a switch or otherwise, you are going have a certain amount of voltage drop which is normal. The more connections you have and the older the system is, the greater the voltage drop and the more resistance within the system. The more resistance present, the more heat you generate which causes a strain on the fusing of that circuit.
The proper fix for this situation would be to install a headlight enhancement relay kit (either AAW P/N 500403 – standard; or 500431 -waterproof). These relays utilize the original wiring, headlamp and dimmer switches as triggers to strictly switch power to the coils in the relays and allow the overall load to be carried by two separate 30 amp fused battery powered feeds that route directly to the battery itself or a similar junction block. By doing this, we take the entire load that those new halogen lamps have created off of the production switches and wiring system (other than about 2-3 amps to flip the coils) and transfer that load directly to the battery via the new 30 amp battery feeds. This does two things. First, the older switches and wiring will live much longer and function much better. Second, and more importantly, because power is being drawn directly from the battery without going through a series of switches, disconnects, and in general, the whole stock wiring system, a full 12-14 volts will now be realized directly at the lamps themselves giving you much brighter lights.
Click here for part# 500403 (standard headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
Click here for part# 500431 (waterproof headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
The proper fix for this situation would be to install a headlight enhancement relay kit (either AAW P/N 500403 – standard; or 500431 -waterproof). These relays utilize the original wiring, headlamp and dimmer switches as triggers to strictly switch power to the coils in the relays and allow the overall load to be carried by two separate 30 amp fused battery powered feeds that route directly to the battery itself or a similar junction block. By doing this, we take the entire load that those new halogen lamps have created off of the production switches and wiring system (other than about 2-3 amps to flip the coils) and transfer that load directly to the battery via the new 30 amp battery feeds. This does two things. First, the older switches and wiring will live much longer and function much better. Second, and more importantly, because power is being drawn directly from the battery without going through a series of switches, disconnects, and in general, the whole stock wiring system, a full 12-14 volts will now be realized directly at the lamps themselves giving you much brighter lights.
Click here for part# 500403 (standard headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
Click here for part# 500431 (waterproof headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
In most cases, the headlight switch would be fine for use with the typical sealed beam headlight system. However, If you do not know the power handling capability of the headlight switch or are updating to a higher current draw halogen headlight system, you might want to take the safety approach and take the load off the headlight switch by using a relay to control the power to your high and low beam dimmer switch. The relay is input 12 volt battery power. The original headlight switch power output is redirected to activate the relay. Relay output is directed to the low/high beam dimmer switch, taking the place of the original headlight switch power output. The dimmer switch acts as it always did by directing power output to either the low or high beam circuit. The result is that the original headlight switch becomes a low current switch. Please note that 12 volt power to the relay should be through a resetable circuit breaker.
More than likely, there is no problem with your switch. The red headlight feed wire only feeds the output to the dimmer. The orange wire in the switch is what feeds the dash, tail, and parking lamps. It sounds like you have no feed on that orange wire which means that you have a blown fuse in the fusebox more than likely. That orange wire is (battery fused) hot all the time as soon as the battery is connected. If your fuse blows as soon as the battery is connected, there is a short on the orange wire itself. If however, it doesn’t blow until you activate the H/L switch, one of your brown parking lamp or tail lamp wires is shorted directly to ground or possibly even in one of the lamp sockets or bulbs. Once you find your short, your switch should work fine
This is a very common question. People assume that because the dashes look the same, that they can just install the pretty tach and gauge set-up that they bought at the swap meet over the weekend. Unfortunately, nothing could be further from the truth. In almost every application, the harnesses that make these items work are TOTALLY different!
Solution: Before making the decision to add tach and gauges to your car or truck, know what you are getting yourself into. Purchasing that tach and gauge set up is only the tip of the iceberg. Chances are, you will need to spend another $500-$700 on wiring harnesses to make those gauges work. What ever vehicle you are working on, check with a wiring manufacturer for availability and pricing on what is needed to convert your ride to factory instrumentation from warning lights BEFORE you spend all that money on that beautiful tach and gauge cluster. Try to avoid so called “add-on” kits that just act as a band-aid on your 40 year old original harness.
Solution: Before making the decision to add tach and gauges to your car or truck, know what you are getting yourself into. Purchasing that tach and gauge set up is only the tip of the iceberg. Chances are, you will need to spend another $500-$700 on wiring harnesses to make those gauges work. What ever vehicle you are working on, check with a wiring manufacturer for availability and pricing on what is needed to convert your ride to factory instrumentation from warning lights BEFORE you spend all that money on that beautiful tach and gauge cluster. Try to avoid so called “add-on” kits that just act as a band-aid on your 40 year old original harness.
All of our Classic Update kits, as well as some of our Power Plus and Builder Series kits, include an accessory power plug. Find the accessory power plug on your instruction sheet. There you will generally find 6 power feed wires that we have been tabbed for various accessories such as fuel pump, power windows, power locks, power trunk, etc. In addition, we specify whether that wire is “Ignition”, “Battery”, or “Accessory” fed. In your case, you need a keyed-on power source, which would be an “ignition” powered source. In the accessory plug of any given Classic Update kit, there are 1 to 3 ignition fed power wires such as “Power Windows”, “Cruise Control”, “Fuel Pump”, etc. Choose one of those wires that you are not using and plug your feed wire into the mating connector included with the kit. Mating terminals and connector have been provided to do this.
Be sure to install the proper size fuse for the job that you are doing.
If all of the accessory wires are being used, there are several unfused power “taps” on the face of the fuse box marked with an I, A, or B (ignition, accessory, battery). One of these may be used. American Autowire offers a power tap kit (part# 500429) that consists of a series of connectors and terminals that can be installed onto your wires and plugged into the AAW panel. Keep in mind that these cavities are ALL unfused and should have the proper fuse installed in series between the connection and whatever appliance you are trying to install.
Be sure to install the proper size fuse for the job that you are doing.
If all of the accessory wires are being used, there are several unfused power “taps” on the face of the fuse box marked with an I, A, or B (ignition, accessory, battery). One of these may be used. American Autowire offers a power tap kit (part# 500429) that consists of a series of connectors and terminals that can be installed onto your wires and plugged into the AAW panel. Keep in mind that these cavities are ALL unfused and should have the proper fuse installed in series between the connection and whatever appliance you are trying to install.
Unfortunately, this can be a bit confusing and also a bit lengthy. Since I don’t know what type of harness is being used in your application, I will try to cover all of the bases here. Basically, you’ll need a fused, 12 volt ignition feed to accomplish this task.
If you are using a Factory Fit® OEM harness, there are a few things to consider. Many 1970 and later harnesses already have a fused 12 volt feed in the harnesses that were used to power up things like idle stop solenoids, TCS spark controls, turbo 400 kickdown power, etc. If you are fortunate enough to have one of these harnesses, you can usually just tap off of one of those feeds.
If you have Factory Fit harness earlier than 1970, you most likely do not have a fused 12-volt fed wire already in the harness. It would be best to run a new wire into the car and plug it onto one of the accessory blades on the fuseblock where you see “IGN FUSED”. If you would prefer, you can also tap into the windshield wiper feed wire, as that is also a 12-volt ignition fused circuit.
What you do not want to do under ANY circumstances is take power from you coil or main distributor feed. Two reasons for this:
When using any of the other American Autowire wiring KITS such as a Classic Update, Power Plus, Highway, or Builder Series, you simply need to take any ignition fused 12 volt feed (use about a 10 amp fused) and connect it to your electric choke assembly. Some AAW products actually have a wire already allotted for an electric choke, so watch for that in your instructions. This will generally be outlined in the engine connection area of your instruction set
If you are using a Factory Fit® OEM harness, there are a few things to consider. Many 1970 and later harnesses already have a fused 12 volt feed in the harnesses that were used to power up things like idle stop solenoids, TCS spark controls, turbo 400 kickdown power, etc. If you are fortunate enough to have one of these harnesses, you can usually just tap off of one of those feeds.
If you have Factory Fit harness earlier than 1970, you most likely do not have a fused 12-volt fed wire already in the harness. It would be best to run a new wire into the car and plug it onto one of the accessory blades on the fuseblock where you see “IGN FUSED”. If you would prefer, you can also tap into the windshield wiper feed wire, as that is also a 12-volt ignition fused circuit.
What you do not want to do under ANY circumstances is take power from you coil or main distributor feed. Two reasons for this:
- That circuit is always unfused and you do not want to wire an electric choke to an unfused circuit. If it were to short out, it would just continue to burn and melt the entire time the ignition was turned to the “on” position because there would be no fuse to keep the circuit in check.
- Most stock primary ignition circuits are wired through a resistance wire, which only allows about 8.6 to 9.6 volts to the coil. This would not be enough voltage to properly operate your electric choke.
When using any of the other American Autowire wiring KITS such as a Classic Update, Power Plus, Highway, or Builder Series, you simply need to take any ignition fused 12 volt feed (use about a 10 amp fused) and connect it to your electric choke assembly. Some AAW products actually have a wire already allotted for an electric choke, so watch for that in your instructions. This will generally be outlined in the engine connection area of your instruction set
Customers often ask why there is a need to change the horn relay when converting a 1958-62 Chevrolet Fullsize and Nova car from the stock generator to an internally regulated alternator. The reason is that on a car equipped with a generator, the “battery” terminal on the voltage regulator served as the main battery power distribution block. When that regulator is removed and the car is converted from a generator to an internally regulated alternator, we loose that distribution point. On the 63-75 cars, GM removed the “battery” terminal from the voltage regulator and relocated it to the horn relay, which then served as the main battery power distribution point. While there were about 5 different configurations of these newer style horn relays, they were all utilized as the main power distribution source to transfer 12 volts into the car. American Autowire uses the 1963-65 style horn relay (P/N 12339243) on our conversions.
Main power transfer was accomplished from 1958 through 1964 (through 1966 on the Novas) by incorporating a smaller gauge secondary battery lead along with the normal heavy gauge primary battery lead that connected to the positive post on the battery. While the primary heavy gauge feed went down to the starter solenoid, the secondary lead, which was generally between 60 and 80 inches long, would route from the positive terminal on the battery, up to and across the radiator core support, and then onto the “battery” terminal on the voltage regulator (or after 1963, onto the horn relay).
Often, the primary battery cable would need to be replaced after several years, due to age or just general wear and tear. When this occurred, most field repairs were done utilizing a positive cable that DID NOT include a secondary feed. This repair was typically performed by cutting the secondary feed from the original cable and tying it into the newly repaired/installed cable. Very often, this old secondary lead would be taped into the old original front lamp harness to make things “look cleaner”. This scenario eventually created another problem for both our customers and American Autowire. When the customer removes their old original and attempts to install a new forward lamp harness, they no longer have that much-needed secondary lead to their voltage regulator or horn relay. Because there is no longer a battery power feed transferring 12 volts from the battery to that power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay), nothing works.
American Autowire would like to inform our customers that they will either need to purchase a new battery cable which will include that secondary power feed, or they will need to run their own new wire, which will run from the battery to the power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay).
Main power transfer was accomplished from 1958 through 1964 (through 1966 on the Novas) by incorporating a smaller gauge secondary battery lead along with the normal heavy gauge primary battery lead that connected to the positive post on the battery. While the primary heavy gauge feed went down to the starter solenoid, the secondary lead, which was generally between 60 and 80 inches long, would route from the positive terminal on the battery, up to and across the radiator core support, and then onto the “battery” terminal on the voltage regulator (or after 1963, onto the horn relay).
Often, the primary battery cable would need to be replaced after several years, due to age or just general wear and tear. When this occurred, most field repairs were done utilizing a positive cable that DID NOT include a secondary feed. This repair was typically performed by cutting the secondary feed from the original cable and tying it into the newly repaired/installed cable. Very often, this old secondary lead would be taped into the old original front lamp harness to make things “look cleaner”. This scenario eventually created another problem for both our customers and American Autowire. When the customer removes their old original and attempts to install a new forward lamp harness, they no longer have that much-needed secondary lead to their voltage regulator or horn relay. Because there is no longer a battery power feed transferring 12 volts from the battery to that power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay), nothing works.
American Autowire would like to inform our customers that they will either need to purchase a new battery cable which will include that secondary power feed, or they will need to run their own new wire, which will run from the battery to the power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay).
The 12-volt feed into the panel is not being energized by the battery.There can be several reasons for this depending on what type of car and harness we are talking about. This is a very common problem on the early Full-sized Chevrolets, Novas, and Chevelles in particular. On those early cars, the battery cable had a 70-80 inch secondary lead molded into the head that went all the way across the core support and sent 12 volts over to the horn relay or generator regulator. Be sure that wire is present if you are working on one of those cars. You may also have a blown fusible link down at the starter on the panel feed wire.
Solution: Using a test light or meter, check for voltage on all of your battery 12 volt wires (usually a heavy red wire) starting at the ignition switch and working your way back to the panel and ultimately the source, be it the battery, a junction block, or the starter solenoid. Once you have found where the voltage does not exist, you have found your problem.
Solution: Using a test light or meter, check for voltage on all of your battery 12 volt wires (usually a heavy red wire) starting at the ignition switch and working your way back to the panel and ultimately the source, be it the battery, a junction block, or the starter solenoid. Once you have found where the voltage does not exist, you have found your problem.
HEI and other electronic distributors create a different signal or pulse then do original points style distributors. For this reason, your OEM tach that was circuited to read the latter, does not recognize and cannot read the signal it’s receiving from the newer style distributor. The fix for this situation is to purchase a tach filter or interface device. They are available through several aftermarket manufacturers. They can be found on most GM cars in junkyards that have factory tachs in them. The factory style filter looks like a condenser with a wire and connector on each end, one of which plugs onto the HEI distributor, and the other onto the tach lead wire. Hooking this filter device in series between your distributor and tach should allow your factory tach to work in harmony with your new electronic distributor.
More than likely, the neutral safety switch wires are not hooked up. This is a fairly common over sight.
Solution: Most dash wiring harnesses have the neutral safety switch wires installed in them already and simply need to either be hooked through a neutral safety switch (in the case of an automatic transmission) or just need to be joined together (in the case of a manual transmission) to complete the starter circuit back to the ignition switch. If they are not hooked together, power will not be continued from the ignition switch down to the starter.
Solution: Most dash wiring harnesses have the neutral safety switch wires installed in them already and simply need to either be hooked through a neutral safety switch (in the case of an automatic transmission) or just need to be joined together (in the case of a manual transmission) to complete the starter circuit back to the ignition switch. If they are not hooked together, power will not be continued from the ignition switch down to the starter.
Yes – you may need the 2nd wire. It’s all according to the ignition switch you are using. If your switch is NOT mutually bussed between “ON” and “Start” the engine may not even fire. What that means, is that in the “ON” position, you will have voltage at the ignition wire, but when you go past “ON” to “Start”, the ignition wire drops dead. That is why you may need the second wire at the starter (to pull voltage off of the starter in the “Start” position and energize the coil) so that the ignition will fire allowing the car to start. This all really depends on what year car you have, as the ignition switch functions vary from car to car and from year to year. If the wire is not needed, you can just tape it back to the harness being sure to properly insulate the lead, as it will be hot in the run position. This is also a very big issue for people putting the newer fuel injected engines into the older cars, as you MUST have voltage in the crank position for the injectors to fire or the car WILL NOT start.
Solution: We have an ignition switch bypass relay kit that will work with many GM products and is a 5-10 minute “plug and play” installation. We also have an “in dash” ignition switch that will replace many GM switches and IS mutually bussed between “ON’ and “Start” that will eliminate this problem.
Please visit shop.americanautowire.com or call 800-482-9473 to order.
Solution: We have an ignition switch bypass relay kit that will work with many GM products and is a 5-10 minute “plug and play” installation. We also have an “in dash” ignition switch that will replace many GM switches and IS mutually bussed between “ON’ and “Start” that will eliminate this problem.
Please visit shop.americanautowire.com or call 800-482-9473 to order.
This is a classic bad ground problem.The problem is that the light sockets themselves are not grounded properly or at all. For anything electrical to work properly, you must have two (2) things, a 12-volt feed and a ground. The bulb usually picks up a ground through the case of the bulb, but in this instance it’s picking up an improper feedback ground through the opposite wire in the light socket itself. The reason the turn signals quit working when the lights are on, is that a 12-volt signal is now being sent down the opposite wire, which was acting as a ground before. Once the lights are turned off, everything will work fine again.
Solution: Be sure that whenever your lamp is grounded, you have a good known chassis ground. This usually involved scraping paint or rust from the mounting surface and, in extreme cases, running a separate ground wire to the lamp assembly itself.
Solution: Be sure that whenever your lamp is grounded, you have a good known chassis ground. This usually involved scraping paint or rust from the mounting surface and, in extreme cases, running a separate ground wire to the lamp assembly itself.
There are a few possible scenarios going on here. As we’ve discussed previously, anything electrical needs a 12 volt feed and ground to work. The first, and most likely, culprit here is the fact that you are not getting 12 volts on the positive side of the gauge. Each gauge has a 12-volt ignition feed and a sender wire. The sender wire is the ground to the gauge. The sending unit wire could be bad or broken, or the circuit from the gauge to the sender is incomplete. Without a ground, the gauge will not register. It is highly unlikely that all the sender units are bad, so we can rule that out. Of course, it is also possible that all the gauges are malfunctioning. Again, this is unlikely.
Solution: The fact that the indicator lights are operational proves that the instrument cluster is properly grounded. First, check all connections to be sure that your colors and wire functions are mating with each other (green to green, blue to blue, etc,) and check for good crimps. With the key in the “ON” position, take a test light and check the feed wire at back of each gauge. You should have 12 volts at all gauges. If not, check the “gauges” fuse at the panel. Make sure you check for voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse as they can sometimes blow in the end where it cannot be seen visibly. If you have established that you DO NOT have 12 volts coming out of the panel, you’ll need to find out why. Put a good fuse in the “gauges” fuse location and continue testing the 12 volt feed circuit. If the fuse blows as soon as the key is turned on, something on the 12 volt feed circuit is shorted to ground. Remove the feed wires 1 at a time until the problem goes away. When you get to a gauge that you have removed the feed from and the problem goes away, you have found the culprit. Check for bare or broken wires on the leg. Perhaps the gauge is even shorted to ground internally. If all the gauges do in fact have 12 volts on them, you’ll need to start checking your sender wires. An easy check is take the temperature sender unit wire and, with the key in the on position, touch the temp sending unit wire to a good known ground. Your gauge should peg on ‘HOT”. If it does not and you have 12 volts on the gauge, you are not getting continuity to ground between the sender wire and the back of the gauge. Similar tests can be done for any gauge.
Solution: The fact that the indicator lights are operational proves that the instrument cluster is properly grounded. First, check all connections to be sure that your colors and wire functions are mating with each other (green to green, blue to blue, etc,) and check for good crimps. With the key in the “ON” position, take a test light and check the feed wire at back of each gauge. You should have 12 volts at all gauges. If not, check the “gauges” fuse at the panel. Make sure you check for voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse as they can sometimes blow in the end where it cannot be seen visibly. If you have established that you DO NOT have 12 volts coming out of the panel, you’ll need to find out why. Put a good fuse in the “gauges” fuse location and continue testing the 12 volt feed circuit. If the fuse blows as soon as the key is turned on, something on the 12 volt feed circuit is shorted to ground. Remove the feed wires 1 at a time until the problem goes away. When you get to a gauge that you have removed the feed from and the problem goes away, you have found the culprit. Check for bare or broken wires on the leg. Perhaps the gauge is even shorted to ground internally. If all the gauges do in fact have 12 volts on them, you’ll need to start checking your sender wires. An easy check is take the temperature sender unit wire and, with the key in the on position, touch the temp sending unit wire to a good known ground. Your gauge should peg on ‘HOT”. If it does not and you have 12 volts on the gauge, you are not getting continuity to ground between the sender wire and the back of the gauge. Similar tests can be done for any gauge.
Problem: I purchased a kit for my 69 Camaro and I have hit a snag. I have scoured your Technical Headquarters site and have followed the suggestions related to the orange wire (the park lamp/dash feed) and I’ve produced predictable results. When I replace the parking lights fuse, I have 12 volts of power on the orange wire. When I turn on the lights, the side markers light up for a moment and then cut off, producing a blown fuse.
This led me to search for shorts on the brown parking lamp wire. I found a few “suspect” connections in the trunk and repaired them, tried again and it blew the fuse. Short still not found. However, I did notice that when I step on the brake pedal, the brake lights work yet my turn signals in the dash light up. Any idea what’s going on there?
The other symptoms include: no dash lights, no side markers, no parking lights, no courtesy lights – yet the dome light works fine.
Solution:
You have several problems that all sound installation oriented. The turn signal indicators lighting up is a ground backfeed. The brake and turn circuits have nothing to to do with the orange wire that feeds the brown parking/taillamp wires. The turns and brake lights should function independently if all else is OK (the exception would be an internally shorted 1157 bulb). The only thing that will blow a fuse as you describe is a dead short to ground. The way to find that short is put a fuse in the park light location (the reason you have no side markers, park, or tails is because that parking lamp fuse is blown – all the same feed), then disconnect the rear body harness and pull the lights switch out to the on position. If the fuse holds, your short is on one of the brown wires in the rear body, or even internally inside of a bulb. If it blows again, plug the rear body back in and disconnect the front light harness from the firewall and pull out the headlight switch to on again. If the fuse holds, the short is in the front end. If if blows, there is an issue inside the dash or the headlight switch itself.
UPDATE:
Found the short in the trunk – it was the license plate lamp.
So now I have a new problem: When I turn the key on (motor and headlights off), the blinkers work. But, when I turn on the headlights, the blinkers stop blinking and just light up – no blinking. The hazards do not work at all, no matter the combination. I also do not have reverse lights – but is that because the engine is not running? Lastly, I have dome lights but no courtesy lights.
Solution:
Your parking lamp housings are not grounded. The brown P/L wire is acting as a ground when the turns are on, but when you hit them with voltage, that wire can no longer act as a feed. The ground actually is supposed to come from the housing itself being grounded. If you have new 2 stage paint on the car, that is the culprit most likely. Ground those housings well and that will solve that problem. As far as the courtesies, pull the “T” shaped connection apart and you will find that the white wire has folded down against the housing and is not making a ground inside that connection. The orange wire should have 12 volts on it at all times.
This led me to search for shorts on the brown parking lamp wire. I found a few “suspect” connections in the trunk and repaired them, tried again and it blew the fuse. Short still not found. However, I did notice that when I step on the brake pedal, the brake lights work yet my turn signals in the dash light up. Any idea what’s going on there?
The other symptoms include: no dash lights, no side markers, no parking lights, no courtesy lights – yet the dome light works fine.
Solution:
You have several problems that all sound installation oriented. The turn signal indicators lighting up is a ground backfeed. The brake and turn circuits have nothing to to do with the orange wire that feeds the brown parking/taillamp wires. The turns and brake lights should function independently if all else is OK (the exception would be an internally shorted 1157 bulb). The only thing that will blow a fuse as you describe is a dead short to ground. The way to find that short is put a fuse in the park light location (the reason you have no side markers, park, or tails is because that parking lamp fuse is blown – all the same feed), then disconnect the rear body harness and pull the lights switch out to the on position. If the fuse holds, your short is on one of the brown wires in the rear body, or even internally inside of a bulb. If it blows again, plug the rear body back in and disconnect the front light harness from the firewall and pull out the headlight switch to on again. If the fuse holds, the short is in the front end. If if blows, there is an issue inside the dash or the headlight switch itself.
UPDATE:
Found the short in the trunk – it was the license plate lamp.
So now I have a new problem: When I turn the key on (motor and headlights off), the blinkers work. But, when I turn on the headlights, the blinkers stop blinking and just light up – no blinking. The hazards do not work at all, no matter the combination. I also do not have reverse lights – but is that because the engine is not running? Lastly, I have dome lights but no courtesy lights.
Solution:
Your parking lamp housings are not grounded. The brown P/L wire is acting as a ground when the turns are on, but when you hit them with voltage, that wire can no longer act as a feed. The ground actually is supposed to come from the housing itself being grounded. If you have new 2 stage paint on the car, that is the culprit most likely. Ground those housings well and that will solve that problem. As far as the courtesies, pull the “T” shaped connection apart and you will find that the white wire has folded down against the housing and is not making a ground inside that connection. The orange wire should have 12 volts on it at all times.
Below is a guide for properly stripping wires and crimping terminals. Please see “Crimping Tools” for additional information about the tools required for crimping terminals.
The starter is the single largest power user and most critical to your car’s operation. The starter is simply a DC motor that turns the engine through the flywheel. Voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the battery and is controlled by a relay and/or solenoid operated from the key switch inside your car.
Starters can be of varying types and designs – gear-reduction types for higher torque, permanent-magnet types to reduce size and old-fashioned heavy starters. But whatever the type, they all function in the same basic way.
A slow cranking engine could be a sign of an old or bad starter. But most likely, it’s due to low battery voltage, poor electrical connections at the battery, or a failed relay or fusible link.
Starting a car with the major components turned off (like the AC compressor, blower motor and high-powered stereos) will greatly ease the load on the starter. In fact, most new cars have “lock out” relays that will not allow the AC compressor and alternator to turn on until after the vehicle has been started. But turning these power-hogs off before shutting off your car is always a good precaution.
Although the starter drive, or “Bendix” as it was commonly referred to, can be replaced separately from the starter assembly, it’s rarely recommended anymore. Failure of any part is due to age, usage, and/or heat stress; factors to which the entire starter has also been subjected. That is to say, all the other parts of the starter system are just as old and stressed. Replace the starter as a unit and have the electrical system checked at the same time to prevent further problems.
Starters can be of varying types and designs – gear-reduction types for higher torque, permanent-magnet types to reduce size and old-fashioned heavy starters. But whatever the type, they all function in the same basic way.
A slow cranking engine could be a sign of an old or bad starter. But most likely, it’s due to low battery voltage, poor electrical connections at the battery, or a failed relay or fusible link.
Starting a car with the major components turned off (like the AC compressor, blower motor and high-powered stereos) will greatly ease the load on the starter. In fact, most new cars have “lock out” relays that will not allow the AC compressor and alternator to turn on until after the vehicle has been started. But turning these power-hogs off before shutting off your car is always a good precaution.
Although the starter drive, or “Bendix” as it was commonly referred to, can be replaced separately from the starter assembly, it’s rarely recommended anymore. Failure of any part is due to age, usage, and/or heat stress; factors to which the entire starter has also been subjected. That is to say, all the other parts of the starter system are just as old and stressed. Replace the starter as a unit and have the electrical system checked at the same time to prevent further problems.
THE WORKINGS OF AN ALTERNATOR
ALTERNATOR WARNING LIGHT
What does the little red light that says ALT, GEN or sometimes CHARGING mean when it comes on? Without being scientific, it means that either the alternator output voltage is lower than the battery voltage, or the battery voltage is lower than the alternator output voltage. If the light gets dimmer as you rev the engine up, then you most likely have a problem with the alternator. If the light gets brighter, then the battery is most likely the problem.
ALTERNATOR ROTOR
The rotor consists of a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core. Current through the wire coil – called “field” current – produces a magnetic field around the core. The strength of the field current determines the strength of the magnetic field. The field current is D/C, or direct current. In other words, the current flows in one direction only, and is supplied to the wire coil by a set of brushes and slip rings. The magnetic field produced has, as any magnet, a north and a south pole. The rotor is driven by the alternator pulley.
STATOR
Surrounding the rotor is another set of coils, three in total, called the stator. The stator is fixed to the shell of the alternator, and does not turn. As the rotor turns within the stator windings, the magnetic field of the rotor sweeps through the stator windings, producing an electrical current in the windings. Because of the rotation of the rotor, an alternating current is produced.
OUTPUT DIODES
A/C voltage is of little use in a D/C system, such as used in an automobile, so it has to be converted to D/C before it can be used. This conversion to D/C takes place in the “output diodes” and in the “diode trio.” Diodes have the property of allowing current to flow in only one direction, while blocking current flow in the other direction. The output diodes consist of six diodes, one pair for each winding. One of the pair is for the negative half cycle, and the other for the positive half cycle.
DIODE TRIO
The diode trio consists of three diodes, one per phase, which provides field current to the alternator regulator. This output will be discussed in more detail later in the “field current supply” section.
FIELD CURRENT SUPPLY
Field current supply is provided from two different sources – from the alternator itself, via the diode trio, and from the battery, via the alternator warning lamp. When you turn the key to “on”, the engine is not running and the alternator is not spinning. At this time, the voltage/current source for the field current is from the battery, through the ignition switch, and through the warning lamp. After the engine is started, and the alternator is up to speed, the output of the diode trio is fed back to the regulator, and serves as a source of current for the field current. At this time, the alternator is self sustaining, and the battery is no longer needed to power the automobiles electrical system.
REGULATOR
The regulator has two inputs and one output. The inputs are the field current supply and the control voltage input, and the output is the field current to the rotor. The regulator uses the control voltage input to control the amount of field current input that is allow to pass through to the rotor winding. If the battery voltage drops, the regulator senses this, by means of the connection to the battery, and allows more of the field current input to reach the rotor, which increases the magnetic field strength, which ultimately increases the voltage output of the alternator. Conversely, if the battery voltage goes up, less field current goes through the rotor windings, and the output voltage is reduced.
WARNING LIGHT
The alternator warning lamp travels a path to ground from the field current supply input to the voltage regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil in the alternator, and then to ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output its voltage will equal the battery voltage. At this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out. If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery voltage on the other, the lamp will also light. As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases, it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the lamp, and the brighter it gets.
ALTERNATOR WARNING LIGHT
What does the little red light that says ALT, GEN or sometimes CHARGING mean when it comes on? Without being scientific, it means that either the alternator output voltage is lower than the battery voltage, or the battery voltage is lower than the alternator output voltage. If the light gets dimmer as you rev the engine up, then you most likely have a problem with the alternator. If the light gets brighter, then the battery is most likely the problem.
ALTERNATOR ROTOR
The rotor consists of a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core. Current through the wire coil – called “field” current – produces a magnetic field around the core. The strength of the field current determines the strength of the magnetic field. The field current is D/C, or direct current. In other words, the current flows in one direction only, and is supplied to the wire coil by a set of brushes and slip rings. The magnetic field produced has, as any magnet, a north and a south pole. The rotor is driven by the alternator pulley.
STATOR
Surrounding the rotor is another set of coils, three in total, called the stator. The stator is fixed to the shell of the alternator, and does not turn. As the rotor turns within the stator windings, the magnetic field of the rotor sweeps through the stator windings, producing an electrical current in the windings. Because of the rotation of the rotor, an alternating current is produced.
OUTPUT DIODES
A/C voltage is of little use in a D/C system, such as used in an automobile, so it has to be converted to D/C before it can be used. This conversion to D/C takes place in the “output diodes” and in the “diode trio.” Diodes have the property of allowing current to flow in only one direction, while blocking current flow in the other direction. The output diodes consist of six diodes, one pair for each winding. One of the pair is for the negative half cycle, and the other for the positive half cycle.
DIODE TRIO
The diode trio consists of three diodes, one per phase, which provides field current to the alternator regulator. This output will be discussed in more detail later in the “field current supply” section.
FIELD CURRENT SUPPLY
Field current supply is provided from two different sources – from the alternator itself, via the diode trio, and from the battery, via the alternator warning lamp. When you turn the key to “on”, the engine is not running and the alternator is not spinning. At this time, the voltage/current source for the field current is from the battery, through the ignition switch, and through the warning lamp. After the engine is started, and the alternator is up to speed, the output of the diode trio is fed back to the regulator, and serves as a source of current for the field current. At this time, the alternator is self sustaining, and the battery is no longer needed to power the automobiles electrical system.
REGULATOR
The regulator has two inputs and one output. The inputs are the field current supply and the control voltage input, and the output is the field current to the rotor. The regulator uses the control voltage input to control the amount of field current input that is allow to pass through to the rotor winding. If the battery voltage drops, the regulator senses this, by means of the connection to the battery, and allows more of the field current input to reach the rotor, which increases the magnetic field strength, which ultimately increases the voltage output of the alternator. Conversely, if the battery voltage goes up, less field current goes through the rotor windings, and the output voltage is reduced.
WARNING LIGHT
The alternator warning lamp travels a path to ground from the field current supply input to the voltage regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil in the alternator, and then to ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output its voltage will equal the battery voltage. At this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out. If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery voltage on the other, the lamp will also light. As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases, it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the lamp, and the brighter it gets.
Problem: When my high beams are on, my indicator is not on, but when my low beams are on, my indicator glows slightly. Also my turn signal indicators glow or are on all the time whenever my lights are on.
This is a classic feedback ground situation. What’s more than likely happening is that your dash cluster is not properly grounded, or is not grounded at all. This can happen when a car is freshly restored or refinished, especially when 2-stage paint, or powder coating has been used. The catalyst that is mixed with the paint to help it cure is a polymer and it and basically turns it into plastic. Plastic is NOT conductive to a good ground, neither is the finish created by powder coating. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance and needs a 12-volt feed and ground to operate any appliance or function. If it does not have a good ground, it will ultimately search for one and that is what it is doing by grabbing the turn signal and high beam feed wires in the cluster. It may be actually finding a ground all the way out at the parking lamps or headlights.
Solution: You must be certain to have an excellent chassis ground on your gauge cluster as there are many things going on there (gauges, lamps, and indicator lights). A great thing to consider is a universal grounding kit as it runs all of your grounds back to one good know chassis ground. This is especially true if you are building a fiberglass car.
This is a classic feedback ground situation. What’s more than likely happening is that your dash cluster is not properly grounded, or is not grounded at all. This can happen when a car is freshly restored or refinished, especially when 2-stage paint, or powder coating has been used. The catalyst that is mixed with the paint to help it cure is a polymer and it and basically turns it into plastic. Plastic is NOT conductive to a good ground, neither is the finish created by powder coating. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance and needs a 12-volt feed and ground to operate any appliance or function. If it does not have a good ground, it will ultimately search for one and that is what it is doing by grabbing the turn signal and high beam feed wires in the cluster. It may be actually finding a ground all the way out at the parking lamps or headlights.
Solution: You must be certain to have an excellent chassis ground on your gauge cluster as there are many things going on there (gauges, lamps, and indicator lights). A great thing to consider is a universal grounding kit as it runs all of your grounds back to one good know chassis ground. This is especially true if you are building a fiberglass car.
The issue here is discussed in another post, however, here we have introduced a situation where the 12 volt override wire physically cannot exist. There are two possible solutions to this problem. The first involves changing the ignition switch to one that supplies 12 volts on the “RUN” circuit when the ignition is in “CRANK” mode. With this type of ignition switch, a 12 volt override wire from the starter is not necessary. The second solution involves the use of a starter solenoid relay that uses the solenoid lead wire from the ignition switch to activate a relay that supplies the necessary 12 volt power to the HEI ignition coil through the HEI power terminal. When the key is released from the “CRANK” position, the relay is shut down and power to the HEI distributor is supplied through the “RUN” circuit.
This can be caused by a few different things.The first item to check would be the alternator. There may be a feedback to the ignition switch from the voltage regulator field exciter wire. The other scenario that we commonly see is feedback from an aftermarket ignition system that utilizes an internal relay, or both a battery and ignition source to power the system. These are fairly common problems that people experience when using many aftermarket-wiring systems. Generally, an OEM harness will not have the problem of alternator “run-on”, as there is usually a resistance wire in the dash harness to keep this from happening.
Solution: To figure out where the problem exists, start the car and with the key in the ON position and the car running, turn off the key. With the ignition turned off and the car continuing to run, simply remove the plug from the alternator (DO NOT TRY AND REMOVE THE BATTERY POWER WIRE FROM THE POWER STUD!) and the car should shut off if the alternator is creating the problem. If it does not stop running, your feedback problem is coming from something other that the alternator. If you are using an aftermarket ignition unit, check to see if there is a fix available that includes a diode to put in line on the ignition feed to keep their system from back feeding into the ignition switch. If you do not have an aftermarket ignition system in your car and it continues to run after pulling the alternator plug, you’ll want to call tech support from your harness manufacturer for help. If your car does shut off when you remove your alternator plug, you may have to put a diode in line on the field exciter wire to keep the alternator from back feeding to the ignition switch. Again check with the harness manufacturer for help.
Solution: To figure out where the problem exists, start the car and with the key in the ON position and the car running, turn off the key. With the ignition turned off and the car continuing to run, simply remove the plug from the alternator (DO NOT TRY AND REMOVE THE BATTERY POWER WIRE FROM THE POWER STUD!) and the car should shut off if the alternator is creating the problem. If it does not stop running, your feedback problem is coming from something other that the alternator. If you are using an aftermarket ignition unit, check to see if there is a fix available that includes a diode to put in line on the ignition feed to keep their system from back feeding into the ignition switch. If you do not have an aftermarket ignition system in your car and it continues to run after pulling the alternator plug, you’ll want to call tech support from your harness manufacturer for help. If your car does shut off when you remove your alternator plug, you may have to put a diode in line on the field exciter wire to keep the alternator from back feeding to the ignition switch. Again check with the harness manufacturer for help.
Lifeline Memory Retention Module
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BELLMAWR, NJ, OCTOBER 22, 2008: American Autowire is the premier automotive electrical manufacturer for Street Rod, Muscle and Classic Cars.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for specific year, make, and model configurations. The 1961-64 Impala is no exception. The kit boasts 19 features and makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry. In this kit, you will find the following:
Replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker included. Retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob are also included.
Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel, and horn relay mounted on harness.
Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
Original switch connector bodies! (Exclusive to American Autowire)
Steering column connectors will plug directly into most after market
steering columns as well as ‘61-‘64 GM columns, which utilize stock GM turn signal switches.
Along with wiring for your original dome/interior lighting we have included separate under dash light sockets.
Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. All original terminals, connectors (exclusively from American Autowire), and light sockets are also supplied for original cluster gauges. However, the best aspect of the disconnect system is that any gauge cluster package can be easily and neatly wired in. This includes AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, and VDO just to name a few.
Rear body harness assembly is designed to plug into the main harness in the original location. Flexibility in harness design allows for original or custom routing. EXCLUSIVE! Rear body wiring includes backup light lead wires with correct light sockets, stop and tail light lead wires with correct light sockets, license plate lead wires, and fuel tank sender wire and connection. In addition, a complete preassembled trunk lid harness is also included at no extra charge!
New floor dimmer switch is provided. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
EXCLUSIVE! GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included and ready for easy installation. Original or custom routing of the new harness is no problem!
Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
Front lighting includes extra long leads for special routing when custom under hood appearance is desired. All headlight, park light and directional light connectors and terminals are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
You’ll find that with our inclusion all the original style light sockets, connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness, it makes it the most complete system of it’s type in the industry!
This 1961-1964 Impala Classic Update Kit is part number 510063 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $599.00.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for specific year, make, and model configurations. The 1961-64 Impala is no exception. The kit boasts 19 features and makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry. In this kit, you will find the following:
Replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker included. Retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob are also included.
Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel, and horn relay mounted on harness.
Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
Original switch connector bodies! (Exclusive to American Autowire)
Steering column connectors will plug directly into most after market
steering columns as well as ‘61-‘64 GM columns, which utilize stock GM turn signal switches.
Along with wiring for your original dome/interior lighting we have included separate under dash light sockets.
Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. All original terminals, connectors (exclusively from American Autowire), and light sockets are also supplied for original cluster gauges. However, the best aspect of the disconnect system is that any gauge cluster package can be easily and neatly wired in. This includes AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, and VDO just to name a few.
Rear body harness assembly is designed to plug into the main harness in the original location. Flexibility in harness design allows for original or custom routing. EXCLUSIVE! Rear body wiring includes backup light lead wires with correct light sockets, stop and tail light lead wires with correct light sockets, license plate lead wires, and fuel tank sender wire and connection. In addition, a complete preassembled trunk lid harness is also included at no extra charge!
New floor dimmer switch is provided. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
EXCLUSIVE! GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included and ready for easy installation. Original or custom routing of the new harness is no problem!
Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
Front lighting includes extra long leads for special routing when custom under hood appearance is desired. All headlight, park light and directional light connectors and terminals are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
You’ll find that with our inclusion all the original style light sockets, connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness, it makes it the most complete system of it’s type in the industry!
This 1961-1964 Impala Classic Update Kit is part number 510063 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $599.00.
BELLMAWR, NJ, JUNE 1, 2009: American Autowire introduces the newest member of its Classic Update Series of kits: The 1964-67 Chevy Chevelle Classic Update Kit.
Designed for a specific year, make, model configuration; Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market. Classic Update Kits include many hard-to-find parts and accessories to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. You get the correct boot and tube assemblies, grommets, connectors, headlight, dimmer, and ignition switches, and much more.
The 64-67 Chevelle Classic Update Kit is available now as part number 500981 and retails for $569. If you have the El Camino model, there’s even special rear body connection kit available, part number 500999, that retails for $44.00; order by phone, on the web, or through our dealer network.
American Autowire, located in Bellmawr, NJ, manufactures wiring harnesses, accessories, and parts for GM restorations, modified originals, and custom/street rods.
Designed for a specific year, make, model configuration; Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market. Classic Update Kits include many hard-to-find parts and accessories to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. You get the correct boot and tube assemblies, grommets, connectors, headlight, dimmer, and ignition switches, and much more.
The 64-67 Chevelle Classic Update Kit is available now as part number 500981 and retails for $569. If you have the El Camino model, there’s even special rear body connection kit available, part number 500999, that retails for $44.00; order by phone, on the web, or through our dealer network.
American Autowire, located in Bellmawr, NJ, manufactures wiring harnesses, accessories, and parts for GM restorations, modified originals, and custom/street rods.
BELLMAWR, New Jersey – American Autowire is the premier electrical system manufacturer dedicated to the future of Street Rodding, Restoration and customizing. In consistently achieving new technological advancements for the Street Rod and Restoration Markets, American Autowire is pleased to introduce the 1967-1968 Firebird Classic Update Kit.
The Classic Update Kit series of automotive wiring allows modernization of classic cars without sacrificing the performance requirements of today’s modern accessories. These kits are developed with specific vehicle requirements to compensate for exact wire lengths and kit dimensions.
This kit is a complete front to rear kit including proper lamp sockets and all the connectors. Full color installation schematics are provided to make it an easy installation.
No longer do you have to buy individual harnesses for your 1967-1968 Firebird when you can wire the entire vehicle with one easy to use and hassle-free wiring kit.
This complete kit is available as part number 500886 and is $569.00.
The Classic Update Kit series of automotive wiring allows modernization of classic cars without sacrificing the performance requirements of today’s modern accessories. These kits are developed with specific vehicle requirements to compensate for exact wire lengths and kit dimensions.
This kit is a complete front to rear kit including proper lamp sockets and all the connectors. Full color installation schematics are provided to make it an easy installation.
No longer do you have to buy individual harnesses for your 1967-1968 Firebird when you can wire the entire vehicle with one easy to use and hassle-free wiring kit.
This complete kit is available as part number 500886 and is $569.00.
BELLMAWR, NJ, SEPTEMBER 8, 2008: American Autowire is the premier automotive electrical manufacturer for Street Rod, Muscle and Classic Cars.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for a specific year, make, and model configuration. The 1967-68 Mustang kit boasts 19 features and makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry:
• Correct replacement headlight switch with internal circuit breaker
• Original Ford styled headlight switch connector.
• Headlight enhancement relays allow you to run high-powered Halogen headlights.
• Separate relay controlled circuit for cars that have stock or aftermarket fog or driving lamps
• Correct replacement ignition switch for use with your original bezel and tumbler
• Correct original ignition switch connector
• Standard turn signal flasher and hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel; horn relay mounted on harness.
• New ATO Fusebox fits in center of the firewall away from heater and A/C ducts and allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility.
• Harness allows for most after market accessories such as; gauge packages, heat and air conditioning systems, power windows, etc.
• All required hardware supplied.
• Original switch connector bodies! (Exclusive to American Autowire)
• Steering column connectors will plug directly into most after market steering columns.
• Directions and an adapter with terminals are included for running a stock Mustang steering column.
• Separate optional under-dash light sockets along with original dome/interior light wiring.
• Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. The best aspect of the disconnect system is that any gauge cluster package can be easily and neatly wired in. This includes AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, and VDO just to name a few.
• Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness behind the left hand kick panel for easy accessibility and allows for original or custom routing. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead and ground wires, stop and tail light lead and ground wires with proper focal length light sockets, third brake light wire and the correct license plate lead connection for use with your stock tag lamp. Fuel tank sender wire and sending unit extension are included.
• New floor dimmer switch is provided. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch location.
• Engine wiring includes feeds for coil, tach, water temperature, oil pressure, brake warning (with later updated extension if necessary), and electronic speedometer (if necessary). A heavy gauge alternator feed wire is provided for a typical 1 wire high-powered installation.
• Front lighting includes extra long leads for special routing when custom under hood appearance is desired. All headlight, park light, fog light, and directional light leads are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
The 1967 – 1968 Mustang Classic Update Kit is part number 510055.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for a specific year, make, and model configuration. The 1967-68 Mustang kit boasts 19 features and makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry:
• Correct replacement headlight switch with internal circuit breaker
• Original Ford styled headlight switch connector.
• Headlight enhancement relays allow you to run high-powered Halogen headlights.
• Separate relay controlled circuit for cars that have stock or aftermarket fog or driving lamps
• Correct replacement ignition switch for use with your original bezel and tumbler
• Correct original ignition switch connector
• Standard turn signal flasher and hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel; horn relay mounted on harness.
• New ATO Fusebox fits in center of the firewall away from heater and A/C ducts and allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility.
• Harness allows for most after market accessories such as; gauge packages, heat and air conditioning systems, power windows, etc.
• All required hardware supplied.
• Original switch connector bodies! (Exclusive to American Autowire)
• Steering column connectors will plug directly into most after market steering columns.
• Directions and an adapter with terminals are included for running a stock Mustang steering column.
• Separate optional under-dash light sockets along with original dome/interior light wiring.
• Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. The best aspect of the disconnect system is that any gauge cluster package can be easily and neatly wired in. This includes AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, and VDO just to name a few.
• Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness behind the left hand kick panel for easy accessibility and allows for original or custom routing. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead and ground wires, stop and tail light lead and ground wires with proper focal length light sockets, third brake light wire and the correct license plate lead connection for use with your stock tag lamp. Fuel tank sender wire and sending unit extension are included.
• New floor dimmer switch is provided. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch location.
• Engine wiring includes feeds for coil, tach, water temperature, oil pressure, brake warning (with later updated extension if necessary), and electronic speedometer (if necessary). A heavy gauge alternator feed wire is provided for a typical 1 wire high-powered installation.
• Front lighting includes extra long leads for special routing when custom under hood appearance is desired. All headlight, park light, fog light, and directional light leads are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
The 1967 – 1968 Mustang Classic Update Kit is part number 510055.
1968-1969 Chevelle Classic Update wiring kit
American Autowire is proud to release the 1968-1969 Chevelle Classic Update Kit (part number 510158) which retails for $569.00.
Classic Update Kits are one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. Designed for specific year, make, and model configurations the 1968-1969 Chevelle Kit is no exception boasting 13 features including:
- Replacement headlight switch with internal 30 amp circuit breaker, retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and a custom knob.
- Standard turn signal and hazard flashers mounted on the fuse panel. A new horn relay is mounted on the main dash harness.
- Fusebox designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all aftermarket accessories such as: gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
- Original switch connector bodies – an American Autowire exclusive feature.
- Steering column connectors can plug directly into most aftermarket steering columns or stock 1968-1969 GM columns that use stock GM turn signal switches.
- Under dash courtesy lamps for use in addition to your original dome/interior lighting.
- Instrument Cluster wiring has a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. Original terminals and connectors (another American Autowire exclusive) are provided for stock cluster connections. Connects into most popular aftermarket gauges such as AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, VDO and others.
- Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness in the stock location. Longer leads allow for stock/custom routing of the wires. Rear body wiring has backup light lead wires with correct lamp sockets, stop and tail light lead wires with correct lamp sockets, terminals to mate with the license plate connection wire, side marker lead and ground wires with lamp sockets, and fuel tank sender wire with trunk grommet and tank connection.
- New floor dimmer switch is provided for ease of installation. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
- GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring (another American Autowire exclusive) and allow for easy installation with original or custom routing.
- Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and Tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
- Front lighting includes extra long leads that can be routed for stock or optional appearances. All headlight, parking and directional light connectors and terminals are provided along with a switched trigger wire for an electric fan.
- Original style light sockets, switch body connectors, terminals, etc.
Click here for more information or to buy it now!
American Autowire is pleased to introduce the 1969-1972 Nova Classic Update Kit.
The Classic Update Kit series of automotive wiring allows modernization of classic cars without sacrificing the performance requirements of today’s modern accessories. These kits are developed with specific vehicle requirements to compensate for exact wire lengths and kit dimensions.
This kit is a complete front to rear kit including proper lamp sockets and all the connectors. Full color installation schematics are provided to make it an easy installation.
No longer do you have to buy individual harnesses for your 1969-1972 Nova when you can wire the entire vehicle with one easy to use and hassle-free wiring kit.
This complete kit is available under part number 500878 and is $569.00.
The Classic Update Kit series of automotive wiring allows modernization of classic cars without sacrificing the performance requirements of today’s modern accessories. These kits are developed with specific vehicle requirements to compensate for exact wire lengths and kit dimensions.
This kit is a complete front to rear kit including proper lamp sockets and all the connectors. Full color installation schematics are provided to make it an easy installation.
No longer do you have to buy individual harnesses for your 1969-1972 Nova when you can wire the entire vehicle with one easy to use and hassle-free wiring kit.
This complete kit is available under part number 500878 and is $569.00.
BELLMAWR, NJ, FEBRUARY 1, 2009: American Autowire is the premier automotive electrical manufacturer for Street Rod, Muscle and Classic Cars.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for specific year, make, and model configurations. The 1969-1972 Chevy and GMC Truck Kit is no exception. The kit boasts 19 features making it the most complete system of its type in the industry including:
• A replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker, retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob.
• Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel, and horn relay mounted on harness
• Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
• Original switch connector bodies – an American Autowire exclusive feature
• Steering column connectors can plug directly into most aftermarket steering columns or stock 1969-72 GM columns that use stock GM turn signal switches.
• Separate under dash courtesy lamps for use along with your original dome/interior lighting.
• Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. Original terminals, connectors (another American Autowire exclusive), and light sockets are supplied for stock cluster connections. The system will also connect into most popular aftermarket gauges such as AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, VDO and others.
• Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness in the stock location and our longer leads allow for stock or custom routing the wires. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead wires with rubber connectors, stop and tail light lead wires with correct light sockets and boot/tube assemblies for Fleetside trucks, or correct connections and terminals to mate with the tail lamp assemblies for Stepside trucks, license plate connection wire, side marker lead and ground wires with lamp sockets, and fuel tank sender wire and connection.
• New floor dimmer switch is provided with extra long mounting screws for ease of installation. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
• GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included (another American Autowire exclusive) and allow for easy installation with original or custom routing.
• Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
• Front lighting includes extra long leads that can be routed for stock or optional appearances. All headlight, park light and directional light connectors and terminals are provided along with a switched trigger wire for an electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
• Original style light sockets, connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness, it makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry!
This 1969-1972 Chevy and GMC Truck Classic Update Kit is part number 510089 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $539.00.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for specific year, make, and model configurations. The 1969-1972 Chevy and GMC Truck Kit is no exception. The kit boasts 19 features making it the most complete system of its type in the industry including:
• A replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker, retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob.
• Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel, and horn relay mounted on harness
• Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
• Original switch connector bodies – an American Autowire exclusive feature
• Steering column connectors can plug directly into most aftermarket steering columns or stock 1969-72 GM columns that use stock GM turn signal switches.
• Separate under dash courtesy lamps for use along with your original dome/interior lighting.
• Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. Original terminals, connectors (another American Autowire exclusive), and light sockets are supplied for stock cluster connections. The system will also connect into most popular aftermarket gauges such as AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, VDO and others.
• Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness in the stock location and our longer leads allow for stock or custom routing the wires. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead wires with rubber connectors, stop and tail light lead wires with correct light sockets and boot/tube assemblies for Fleetside trucks, or correct connections and terminals to mate with the tail lamp assemblies for Stepside trucks, license plate connection wire, side marker lead and ground wires with lamp sockets, and fuel tank sender wire and connection.
• New floor dimmer switch is provided with extra long mounting screws for ease of installation. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
• GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included (another American Autowire exclusive) and allow for easy installation with original or custom routing.
• Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
• Front lighting includes extra long leads that can be routed for stock or optional appearances. All headlight, park light and directional light connectors and terminals are provided along with a switched trigger wire for an electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
• Original style light sockets, connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness, it makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry!
This 1969-1972 Chevy and GMC Truck Classic Update Kit is part number 510089 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $539.00.
BELLMAWR, NJ, JULY 8, 2008: American Autowire is the premier automotive electrical manufacturer for Street Rod, Muscle and Classic Cars.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for specific year, make, and model configurations. The 1970-73 Camaro is no exception. The kit boasts 19 features and makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry. In this kit, you will find the following:
Replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker included. Retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob are also included.
Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel, and horn relay mounted on harness.
Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse allow easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
Original switch connector bodies! (Exclusive to American Autowire)
Steering column connectors will plug directly into most after market
steering columns as well as 1970 and later GM columns, which utilize stock GM turn signal switches.
Along with wiring for your original dome/interior lighting we have included separate under dash light sockets.
Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. All original terminals, connectors (exclusively from American Autowire), and light sockets are also supplied for original cluster gauges. However, the best aspect of the disconnect system is that any gauge cluster package can be easily and neatly wired in. This includes AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, COVAN CLASSICS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, and VDO just to name a few.
Rear body harness assembly is designed to plug into the main harness in the original location. Flexibility in harness design allows for original or custom routing. EXCLUSIVE! Rear body wiring includes backup light lead and ground wires with correct light sockets, stop and tail light lead and ground wires with correct light sockets, and license plate lead wires and sockets. Fuel tank sender wire and terminal included.
New floor dimmer switch is provided. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
EXCLUSIVE! GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included and ready for installation. Original or custom routing of the new harness is no problem!
Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
Front lighting includes extra long leads for special routing when custom under hood appearance is desired. All headlight, park light and directional light connectors and terminals are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
You’ll find that with our inclusion all the original style light sockets, connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness, it makes it the most complete system of it’s type in the industry!
This 1970-1973 Camaro Classic Update Kit is part number 510034 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $569.00.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for specific year, make, and model configurations. The 1970-73 Camaro is no exception. The kit boasts 19 features and makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry. In this kit, you will find the following:
Replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker included. Retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob are also included.
Standard turn signal flasher, hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel, and horn relay mounted on harness.
Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse allow easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
Original switch connector bodies! (Exclusive to American Autowire)
Steering column connectors will plug directly into most after market
steering columns as well as 1970 and later GM columns, which utilize stock GM turn signal switches.
Along with wiring for your original dome/interior lighting we have included separate under dash light sockets.
Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. All original terminals, connectors (exclusively from American Autowire), and light sockets are also supplied for original cluster gauges. However, the best aspect of the disconnect system is that any gauge cluster package can be easily and neatly wired in. This includes AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, COVAN CLASSICS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, and VDO just to name a few.
Rear body harness assembly is designed to plug into the main harness in the original location. Flexibility in harness design allows for original or custom routing. EXCLUSIVE! Rear body wiring includes backup light lead and ground wires with correct light sockets, stop and tail light lead and ground wires with correct light sockets, and license plate lead wires and sockets. Fuel tank sender wire and terminal included.
New floor dimmer switch is provided. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
EXCLUSIVE! GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included and ready for installation. Original or custom routing of the new harness is no problem!
Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
Front lighting includes extra long leads for special routing when custom under hood appearance is desired. All headlight, park light and directional light connectors and terminals are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
You’ll find that with our inclusion all the original style light sockets, connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness, it makes it the most complete system of it’s type in the industry!
This 1970-1973 Camaro Classic Update Kit is part number 510034 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $569.00.
All Copper Grounding Kit
Solve present or future grounding problems by ssing the American Autowire All Copper Grounding System.
The Problem:
1. Your steel frame rail is a very poor conductor of ground current.
2. Ground current is 50% of your electrical system.
3. Over a period of years the connection between the frame and your ground wire will corrode or rust interrupting your ground current.
The Solution:
The American Autowire system eliminates the frame rail from the ground current by using three grounding boxes connected by 6 gauge copper cables. This kit includes 20 coils of wire marked every five inches with the required circuit function identification. 6 Terminal lugs and a battery crimping star tool (500665) are included.
Part# 500717 – $145
A Must for Fiberglass Bodies! A Must for Steel Bodies Too!
For pictures and more info:
All Copper Grounding Kit
Solve present or future grounding problems by ssing the American Autowire All Copper Grounding System.
The Problem:
1. Your steel frame rail is a very poor conductor of ground current.
2. Ground current is 50% of your electrical system.
3. Over a period of years the connection between the frame and your ground wire will corrode or rust interrupting your ground current.
The Solution:
The American Autowire system eliminates the frame rail from the ground current by using three grounding boxes connected by 6 gauge copper cables. This kit includes 20 coils of wire marked every five inches with the required circuit function identification. 6 Terminal lugs and a battery crimping star tool (500665) are included.
Part# 500717 – $145
A Must for Fiberglass Bodies! A Must for Steel Bodies Too!
For pictures and more info:
All Copper Grounding Kit
Our new Kit Car Electrical System is a comprehensive kit that is geared towards builders of kit cars that use fiberglass bodies and are tailored towards Cobras.
At the heart of the kit is our venerable Highway 15 fuse panel to facilitate all of your power distribution. This modular style panel features a small footprint and a one-sided loading method that is often necessary for dealing with tight kit car compartments. From there we have modified the sub-assemblies of the standard Highway 15 kit to provide greater flexibility in switch selection but have also included our dash mounted turn signal switch, hazard switch and headlight switches that are the most popular with our kit car customers. Since most kit cars utilize fiberglass bodies, we have included our All Copper Grounding Kit ($140 value) to ensure a reliable and gremlin free complete copper electrical circuit. The kit also includes a Ford style ignition switch, a Ford 3G alternator adapter harness, and 5/32” dash indicator LED’s. This kit is a must have for anyone serious about building a high quality kit car. As with all of American Autowire’s kits the Kit Car Electrical System comes with complete easy to follow color instructions and schematics. Part # 500948 retail $599.00.
Also available is the Kit Car Electrical System for GM based kit cars. This kit includes everything in the 500948 mentioned above but exchanges a Ford ignition switch for a GM style ignition switch and doesn’t include the 3G Ford alternator harness. Part #500976 retail $579.00
At the heart of the kit is our venerable Highway 15 fuse panel to facilitate all of your power distribution. This modular style panel features a small footprint and a one-sided loading method that is often necessary for dealing with tight kit car compartments. From there we have modified the sub-assemblies of the standard Highway 15 kit to provide greater flexibility in switch selection but have also included our dash mounted turn signal switch, hazard switch and headlight switches that are the most popular with our kit car customers. Since most kit cars utilize fiberglass bodies, we have included our All Copper Grounding Kit ($140 value) to ensure a reliable and gremlin free complete copper electrical circuit. The kit also includes a Ford style ignition switch, a Ford 3G alternator adapter harness, and 5/32” dash indicator LED’s. This kit is a must have for anyone serious about building a high quality kit car. As with all of American Autowire’s kits the Kit Car Electrical System comes with complete easy to follow color instructions and schematics. Part # 500948 retail $599.00.
Also available is the Kit Car Electrical System for GM based kit cars. This kit includes everything in the 500948 mentioned above but exchanges a Ford ignition switch for a GM style ignition switch and doesn’t include the 3G Ford alternator harness. Part #500976 retail $579.00
GM Headlight Switch Circuit Descriptions:
0. Ground output wire through the rheostat.
1. 12 volt battery unfused feed into H/L switch circuit breaker
• Feeds power to #7 when headlight switch is in “Park lights on” position.
• Feeds power to #6 when headlight switch is in “Headlights on” position.
2. Draws Power from #5 12 volt fused battery “PARK LIGHT” feed.
• Feed to Instrument panel lights fuse on fuse panel.
• Also has continuity with #3, #4, #5
3. Usually hard wired to #4 by brass strip on surface of headlight switch.
• Optional “full time” parking lamp feed
4. Draws Power from #5 12 volt fuse battery “PARK LIGHT” feed.
• Comes on when headlight switch is in “Parking Lights On” position.
• Stays on when headlight switch is in “Headlights On” position.
5. Fuse 12 volt battery feed from fuse panel
• Provides power to #2, #3, and #4
6. Main Headlight power out to Dimmer switch through internal circuit breaker
• From #1 12volt battery feed
7. Draws Power from #1 12 volt battery feed to feed parking lamps.
• Used for pre-1968 parking lights.
• Goes on when headlight switch is in “Parking Lights On” position. (1st click)
• Goes off when headlight switch is in “Headlights On” position. (2nd click)
This kit features two “Bright Driver” headlight reflector bodies and halogen bulbs made complete by the addition of the correct factory connectors and pigtail assembly for easy connection to any dual 7” bulb headlight system. What makes this even better is they are a direct replacement for the common glass sealed beam headlight with no additional mounting hardware necessary.
Completed assembly is lighter than the stock glass bulb by nearly a pound. The bulb and connectors are weather tight to prevent lamp leakage and connector corrosion. There is a Gore-Tex vent applied to the top of the headlight’s reflector body to allow water vapor to evaporate increasing the life of all components. The reflector & lens is produced from polycarbonate that is up to 30 times more impact resistant than its glass counterpart
• Gore-Tex Seal (Vapor evaporation for long life.)
• Uses 9007 Replacement Bulb.
• Polycarbonate Body! (Up to 30 times more impact resistant.)
• Twist Lock. (Bulb held with OEM style locking ring.)
• Included Disconnect System. (Male & female connectors with correct terminals provided.)
• Correct OE Connector (Assembled pigtail into weather tight OE connector.)
500562 Universal 7” upgrade kit 199.00 set
500521 1955-56 Chevy upgrade kit 199.00 set
500522 1957 Chevy upgrade kit 199.00 set
500586 7” Muscle Car upgrade kit 199.00 set
Completed assembly is lighter than the stock glass bulb by nearly a pound. The bulb and connectors are weather tight to prevent lamp leakage and connector corrosion. There is a Gore-Tex vent applied to the top of the headlight’s reflector body to allow water vapor to evaporate increasing the life of all components. The reflector & lens is produced from polycarbonate that is up to 30 times more impact resistant than its glass counterpart
• Gore-Tex Seal (Vapor evaporation for long life.)
• Uses 9007 Replacement Bulb.
• Polycarbonate Body! (Up to 30 times more impact resistant.)
• Twist Lock. (Bulb held with OEM style locking ring.)
• Included Disconnect System. (Male & female connectors with correct terminals provided.)
• Correct OE Connector (Assembled pigtail into weather tight OE connector.)
500562 Universal 7” upgrade kit 199.00 set
500521 1955-56 Chevy upgrade kit 199.00 set
500522 1957 Chevy upgrade kit 199.00 set
500586 7” Muscle Car upgrade kit 199.00 set
This wire installs between the “S” post of single terminal Hi-Torque starter and the “+” post on the coil enabling the ignition system to receive voltage in the crank position when using an early, non-bussed ignition switch. It eliminates the need for special elaborate relays, ignition switches, toggle switches, and alike that were previously used to supply voltage in the crank mode and is especially helpful when running various high-energy ignition systems, or fuel injection.
Part number 500997; Price $20.00
For more info and picture, click here.
Part number 500997; Price $20.00
For more info and picture, click here.
The Highway 15 is a brute in a small package. Built with the same heavy duty internal components as those used in our Highway 22 panel, it can easily handle the “basic” power requirements of any vehicle. Its size makes it the perfect power center for roadsters, T- buckets, kit cars, race cars or any other vehicle where basic operational circuits are required. Heavy gauge lead wires are provided for battery, ignition, accessory, horn, turn signal flasher, and 4-way hazard flasher. Best of all, it is also designed around the same “cook book” installation approach employed with all of our systems.
Easy clamp-style system makes adding and removing wires easy! No Terminals! No Crimping! No Screws!
Ignition switch Included. Connections included for either dash or column mounted ignition switches.
All needed terminals and connectors to finish the basic wiring system are included.
Complete wiring for headlights. (Headlight switch included with internal circuit breaker.)
Mounting legs are moveable to allow for various mounting situations. Alternator regulator diode included.
Micro-Relays for Horn and signals.
15 output connections! Floor mounted dimmer switch Included! Heat Resistant Nylon 6/6 Construction Throughout! 3 position head-light switch. Designed with internal circuit breaker protection (Billet knob included). Unique design of “gauge cluster disconnect “. Makes connecting up to 8 gauges simple and convenient. Heavy 8-Gauge alternator power feed wire! High heat and abrasion resistant XLPE wire. Wire withstands -60oF to +275°F!
Additional Features:
• Complete engine compartment wiring for oil pressure, water temperature, starter, neutral safety switch, ignition switch, distributor coil, main power feed, alternator and regulator.
• Coil leads supplied with connector for GM HEI distributor. Bypass wire included for point type distributors.
• Headlight circuit complete with circuit breaker for headlight switches without integral circuit breaker.
• Complete wiring for all running lights, brake lights and directional lights, and license lights and third brake lights.
• Dash wiring included for electric gauges such as oil pressure, water temp., voltmeter, fuel gauge, and tachometer. Dash lighting for all gauges, speedometer, turn signal & high beam indicator lights.
• Complete wiring for steering column including horn, directional signal switch and 4-way hazard switch. Standard 3-7/8″ GM column connector (both male and female) are provided to directly plug-in to any .69-.74 GM steering columns. Connector bodies and terminals are provided to also make mating to any make column a breeze!
• Complete wiring for radio, heat and A/C, and wipers.
• Spare battery and accessory circuits
• All fuses, flashers, and relays included.
• Horn relay on panel.
• Standard turn signal and hazard flasher circuits.
• Circuit breaker capability on 1 battery and 1 accessory circuit.
• Wire circuit ink-jet labeling every 2 “or 3 “.
• Heavy duty terminals and internal power buss.
• Rugged factory terminals and terminations within the fuse panel assembly.
• Color schematics and easy to understand installation instructions included.
• Patented Hooke’s Law, Screw down connection system
The Highway 15 is available as part# 500703
Easy clamp-style system makes adding and removing wires easy! No Terminals! No Crimping! No Screws!
Ignition switch Included. Connections included for either dash or column mounted ignition switches.
All needed terminals and connectors to finish the basic wiring system are included.
Complete wiring for headlights. (Headlight switch included with internal circuit breaker.)
Mounting legs are moveable to allow for various mounting situations. Alternator regulator diode included.
Micro-Relays for Horn and signals.
15 output connections! Floor mounted dimmer switch Included! Heat Resistant Nylon 6/6 Construction Throughout! 3 position head-light switch. Designed with internal circuit breaker protection (Billet knob included). Unique design of “gauge cluster disconnect “. Makes connecting up to 8 gauges simple and convenient. Heavy 8-Gauge alternator power feed wire! High heat and abrasion resistant XLPE wire. Wire withstands -60oF to +275°F!
Additional Features:
• Complete engine compartment wiring for oil pressure, water temperature, starter, neutral safety switch, ignition switch, distributor coil, main power feed, alternator and regulator.
• Coil leads supplied with connector for GM HEI distributor. Bypass wire included for point type distributors.
• Headlight circuit complete with circuit breaker for headlight switches without integral circuit breaker.
• Complete wiring for all running lights, brake lights and directional lights, and license lights and third brake lights.
• Dash wiring included for electric gauges such as oil pressure, water temp., voltmeter, fuel gauge, and tachometer. Dash lighting for all gauges, speedometer, turn signal & high beam indicator lights.
• Complete wiring for steering column including horn, directional signal switch and 4-way hazard switch. Standard 3-7/8″ GM column connector (both male and female) are provided to directly plug-in to any .69-.74 GM steering columns. Connector bodies and terminals are provided to also make mating to any make column a breeze!
• Complete wiring for radio, heat and A/C, and wipers.
• Spare battery and accessory circuits
• All fuses, flashers, and relays included.
• Horn relay on panel.
• Standard turn signal and hazard flasher circuits.
• Circuit breaker capability on 1 battery and 1 accessory circuit.
• Wire circuit ink-jet labeling every 2 “or 3 “.
• Heavy duty terminals and internal power buss.
• Rugged factory terminals and terminations within the fuse panel assembly.
• Color schematics and easy to understand installation instructions included.
• Patented Hooke’s Law, Screw down connection system
The Highway 15 is available as part# 500703
The Highway 22 is the genesis of years of technical improvements and enhanced features and is the first in a series of highly anticipated, technologically advanced custom modular panel systems.
The Highway 22 fuse panel packs all of the punch of a high-powered OE system into a smaller, easy-to -install and extremely compact front loading package. It is extremely versatile for Street Rods, Custom Cars and Kit Cars. The components used in this panel far exceed the power handling capabilities of any other manufacturer’s system.
The Highway 22 Complete Wiring Kit includes all the necessary wiring for headlights including: a three position headlight switch; a 40 amp electric fan or fuel pump relay; heavy duty power and accessory expansion; micro-relays for horns and turn signals; an accessory harness for radio, electric wipers, heater, air conditioning, fuel pump, and interior lighting. This kit also contains a floor mounted dimmer switch; an ignition switch that has been designed for either dash or column mounting, and includes all the connectors and terminals.
The Highway 22 wiring kit was designed to promote complete mounting flexibility and creativity in specialty electrical systems.
The Highway 22 Complete Wiring Kit is now available as part# 500695 for $499
If you want to mount your fuse panel in the trunk, the Highway 22 Long Wire Trunk Mount Kit is available as part# 500839 for $124.
Also available for the Highway 22 wiring kit is the Highway 22 Ford Connection Kit. It allows owners of Ford vehicles to more easily connect the Highway 22 Kit to their vehicles. The add-on kit includes a Ford style ignition switch with bezel and retaining nut; Ford keys; an alternator harness for the popular Ford 3G alternator; and a Ford Duraspark ignition harness with ballast resistor.
The kit also includes fully illustrated, full color and detailed instructions on installing the kit with our Highway 22 chassis wiring system. The part # is 500917 and the retail price is $159.95.
The Highway 22 fuse panel packs all of the punch of a high-powered OE system into a smaller, easy-to -install and extremely compact front loading package. It is extremely versatile for Street Rods, Custom Cars and Kit Cars. The components used in this panel far exceed the power handling capabilities of any other manufacturer’s system.
The Highway 22 Complete Wiring Kit includes all the necessary wiring for headlights including: a three position headlight switch; a 40 amp electric fan or fuel pump relay; heavy duty power and accessory expansion; micro-relays for horns and turn signals; an accessory harness for radio, electric wipers, heater, air conditioning, fuel pump, and interior lighting. This kit also contains a floor mounted dimmer switch; an ignition switch that has been designed for either dash or column mounting, and includes all the connectors and terminals.
The Highway 22 wiring kit was designed to promote complete mounting flexibility and creativity in specialty electrical systems.
The Highway 22 Complete Wiring Kit is now available as part# 500695 for $499
If you want to mount your fuse panel in the trunk, the Highway 22 Long Wire Trunk Mount Kit is available as part# 500839 for $124.
Also available for the Highway 22 wiring kit is the Highway 22 Ford Connection Kit. It allows owners of Ford vehicles to more easily connect the Highway 22 Kit to their vehicles. The add-on kit includes a Ford style ignition switch with bezel and retaining nut; Ford keys; an alternator harness for the popular Ford 3G alternator; and a Ford Duraspark ignition harness with ballast resistor.
The kit also includes fully illustrated, full color and detailed instructions on installing the kit with our Highway 22 chassis wiring system. The part # is 500917 and the retail price is $159.95.
Use of Hooke's Law in the Highway Series
American Autowire has incorporated the principal of “Hooke’s Law” into the design and construction of the Highway Series. Innovations like this ensure that we provide you with the consistently superior product in the market. The diagram shown explains more. We Make Wiring THAT Easy!
1964-66 Mustang Classic Update kit
American Autowire is proud to announce the arrival of the 1964-1966 Ford Mustang Classic Update Series wiring kit.
Classic Update Kits give you one of the most complete kits on the market to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”. They are designed for a specific year, make, and model configuration. The 1964-66 Mustang kit boasts 19 features and makes it the most complete system of its type in the industry:
• Correct replacement headlight switch with internal circuit breaker
• Original Ford styled headlight switch connector.
• Headlight enhancement relays allow you to run high-powered Halogen headlights.
• Separate relay controlled circuit for cars that have stock or aftermarket fog or driving lamps
• Correct replacement ignition switch for use with your original bezel and tumbler
• Correct original ignition switch connector
• Standard turn signal flasher and hazard flasher mounted on fuse panel; horn relay mounted on harness.
• New ATO Fusebox fits in center of the firewall away from heater and A/C ducts and allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility.
• Harness allows for most after market accessories such as; gauge packages, heat and air conditioning systems, power windows, etc.
• All required hardware supplied.
• Original switch connector bodies! (Exclusive to American Autowire)
• Steering column connectors will plug directly into most after market steering columns.
• Directions and an adapter with terminals are included for running a stock Mustang steering column.
• Separate optional under-dash light sockets along with original dome/interior light wiring.
• Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. The best aspect of the disconnect system is that any gauge cluster package can be easily and neatly wired in. This includes AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, and VDO just to name a few.
• Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness behind the left hand kick panel for easy accessibility and allows for original or custom routing. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead and ground wires, stop and tail light lead wires with proper molded light socket connections, third brake light wire and the correct license plate lead connection for use with your stock tag lamp. Fuel tank sender wire and sending unit extension are included.
• New floor dimmer switch is provided. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch location.
• Engine wiring includes feeds for coil, tach, water temperature, oil pressure, brake warning (with later updated extension if necessary), and electronic speedometer (if necessary). A heavy gauge alternator feed wire is provided for a typical 1 wire high-powered installation.
• Front lighting includes extra long leads for special routing when custom under hood appearance is desired. All headlight, park light, fog light, and directional light leads are provided, as well as a switched trigger wire for electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
The 1964 – 1966 Mustang Classic Update Kit is part number 510125.
Click here to buy it now!
American Autowire proudly announces the release of our newest Classic Update Series wiring kit: the 1970-72 Chevelle! This kit is built in the tradition of all our Classic Update Series wiring kits. The 1970-1972 Chevelle kit boasts 19 features making it the most complete system of its type in the industry including:
• A replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker, retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob.
• Standard turn signal and hazard flashers are mounted on fuse panel. A new horn relay is mounted on the main dash harness.
• Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
• Original switch connector bodies – an American Autowire exclusive feature
• Steering column connectors can plug directly into most aftermarket steering columns or stock 1970-72 GM columns that use stock GM turn signal switches.
• Separate under dash courtesy lamps for use along with your original dome/interior lighting.
• Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. Original terminals and connectors (another American Autowire exclusive) are provided for stock cluster connections. The system will also connect into most popular aftermarket gauges such as AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, VDO and others.
• Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness in the stock location and our longer leads allow for stock or custom routing of the wires. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead wires with correct lamp sockets, stop and tail light lead wires with correct lamp sockets, terminals to mate with the license plate connection wire, side marker lead and ground wires with lamp sockets, and fuel tank sender wire with trunk grommet and tank connection.
• New floor dimmer switch is provided for ease of installation. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
• GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included (another American Autowire exclusive) and allow for easy installation with original or custom routing.
• Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
• Front lighting includes extra long leads that can be routed for stock or optional appearances. All headlight, parking and directional light connectors (lamp socket pigtails are also provided for 1971-72 applications) and terminals are provided along with a switched trigger wire for an electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
• Original style light sockets, switch body connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness help make it the most complete system of its type in the industry!
This 1970-1972 Chevelle Classic Update Kit is part number 510105 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $569.00.
• A replacement headlight switch with internal 30amp circuit breaker, retention collar nut, adjustable length shaft, and custom knob.
• Standard turn signal and hazard flashers are mounted on fuse panel. A new horn relay is mounted on the main dash harness.
• Fuse box designed to fit in original location. All required hardware supplied. New ATO fuse panel allows for easy fuse and circuit breaker accessibility. Harness is laid out and formed to allow for nearly all after market accessories such as; gauge packages, wiper systems, heat and air conditioning systems, etc.
• Original switch connector bodies – an American Autowire exclusive feature
• Steering column connectors can plug directly into most aftermarket steering columns or stock 1970-72 GM columns that use stock GM turn signal switches.
• Separate under dash courtesy lamps for use along with your original dome/interior lighting.
• Instrument Cluster wiring is designed with a “cluster harness disconnect” system for easy service and assembly. Original terminals and connectors (another American Autowire exclusive) are provided for stock cluster connections. The system will also connect into most popular aftermarket gauges such as AUTOMETER, CLASSIC INSTRUMENTS, DAKOTA DIGITAL, STEWART WARNER, VDO and others.
• Rear body harness assembly plugs into the main harness in the stock location and our longer leads allow for stock or custom routing of the wires. Rear body wiring includes backup light lead wires with correct lamp sockets, stop and tail light lead wires with correct lamp sockets, terminals to mate with the license plate connection wire, side marker lead and ground wires with lamp sockets, and fuel tank sender wire with trunk grommet and tank connection.
• New floor dimmer switch is provided for ease of installation. Wire length and connection accommodate original floor mount dimmer switch.
• GM bulkhead connectors for the engine and front light wiring are included (another American Autowire exclusive) and allow for easy installation with original or custom routing.
• Engine wiring includes connectors for original points type as well as H.E.I. distributors. Power and tach connectors supplied for GM H.E.I. distributors. Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internally regulated alternators. GM “CS” series alternator adapter is available separately.
• Front lighting includes extra long leads that can be routed for stock or optional appearances. All headlight, parking and directional light connectors (lamp socket pigtails are also provided for 1971-72 applications) and terminals are provided along with a switched trigger wire for an electric fan relay (usually recommended with AC).
• Original style light sockets, switch body connectors, terminals, etc. packed into every aspect of this harness help make it the most complete system of its type in the industry!
This 1970-1972 Chevelle Classic Update Kit is part number 510105 and is available immediately. The Retail price is $569.00.
BELLMAWR, NJ, JUNE 4, 2009: American Autowire debuts its latest wiring kit – the Builder 19 Kit. The Builder Series combines the convenience of an integrated, pre-wired fusebox with an improved power distribution system to accommodate more power demanding applications in your wiring project.
The first kit in the series, the Builder 19, sports a compact ATO-style fuse panel that is fully encased in a closed box assembly with two mounting pads and has a fuse cover identifying all circuits by description and fuse rating. All high amperage output circuits incorporate the same superior spring steel reinforced terminals that are used in our “Highway Series” kits. The forward lamp, engine, and rear body leads are all extra long for special routing when a custom appearance is desired.
The Builder 19 includes many “extras” as standard like its sibling kits: ignition, floor dimmer, and headlight switches, GM steering column connectors, horn relay and flasher units, and color instructions and schematics. All of these features are part of American Autowire’s continuing goal to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”.
The Builder 19 is available under part# 510006 for $399. Click here for more info.
The first kit in the series, the Builder 19, sports a compact ATO-style fuse panel that is fully encased in a closed box assembly with two mounting pads and has a fuse cover identifying all circuits by description and fuse rating. All high amperage output circuits incorporate the same superior spring steel reinforced terminals that are used in our “Highway Series” kits. The forward lamp, engine, and rear body leads are all extra long for special routing when a custom appearance is desired.
The Builder 19 includes many “extras” as standard like its sibling kits: ignition, floor dimmer, and headlight switches, GM steering column connectors, horn relay and flasher units, and color instructions and schematics. All of these features are part of American Autowire’s continuing goal to “Make Wiring THAT Easy”.
The Builder 19 is available under part# 510006 for $399. Click here for more info.
UPDATED 12/02/2010
These new Voltmeter gauges are engineered as a direct replacement to install in place of the factory Ammeter gauge that was used in the original “saw tooth console gauge packages” installed in many 1968-1969 Camaros and 1968-1974 Novas. This gauge is a must when using American Autowire’s Classic Update or any other updated wiring harness kits will not support the use of an Ammeter.
To find out more about why voltmeters are preferred over ammeters, please read this article
A Word About Ammeters.
Check them out here:
1968-1968 Camaro voltmeter (510121) – $119.95.
1968-174 Nova voltmeter (510122) – $129.95
Please note that this post has been updated since the release of the video below. Both the Camaro and Nova voltmeter gauges are currently available.
These new Voltmeter gauges are engineered as a direct replacement to install in place of the factory Ammeter gauge that was used in the original “saw tooth console gauge packages” installed in many 1968-1969 Camaros and 1968-1974 Novas. This gauge is a must when using American Autowire’s Classic Update or any other updated wiring harness kits will not support the use of an Ammeter.
To find out more about why voltmeters are preferred over ammeters, please read this article
A Word About Ammeters.
Check them out here:
1968-1968 Camaro voltmeter (510121) – $119.95.
1968-174 Nova voltmeter (510122) – $129.95
Please note that this post has been updated since the release of the video below. Both the Camaro and Nova voltmeter gauges are currently available.
Are you tired of re-setting your radio station settings and your digital clock when you turn your master disconnect to the “OFF” position, for that early dinner time stop. Try our “LIFE LINE” Memory Retention Module. Just a few minutes for installation and you will have a constant 12 volt memory power for your radio, clock and ECM computer for those short stops when you turn your master disconnect “OFF”. Our “LIFE LINE” retails for $24.00.
See Instructions Here
See Instructions Here
American Autowire is pleased to introduce the Single Electric Cooling Fan Dual Relay Kit.
This exciting new product will activate a single electric fan in either one of two (2) unique ways. First, if used in conjunction with a temperature switch, the fan will come on whenever the vehicle reaches operating temperature. And second, whenever the A/C turned on, the fan will immediately begin running.
The relays hook up like any standard relay and require only six (6) standard connections that include one to each of the following: a good chassis ground, an A/C power source, an ignition source, a fused battery source, a temperature controlled switch (or similar toggle type), and one output to the fan itself. Any terminals or connectors that are needed to complete the job are included in the kit.
No longer will the car have to come up to operating temperature before the fan will start running when the A/C is turned on. This kit keeps everything simple and immediately starts cooling the A/C condenser as soon as the A/C switch or clutch is activated which eliminates the possibility of the A/C condenser overheating and possibly overheating the car.
This complete kit is available immediately for only $54.00. (part number 500784)
For picture and more info, click here.
This exciting new product will activate a single electric fan in either one of two (2) unique ways. First, if used in conjunction with a temperature switch, the fan will come on whenever the vehicle reaches operating temperature. And second, whenever the A/C turned on, the fan will immediately begin running.
The relays hook up like any standard relay and require only six (6) standard connections that include one to each of the following: a good chassis ground, an A/C power source, an ignition source, a fused battery source, a temperature controlled switch (or similar toggle type), and one output to the fan itself. Any terminals or connectors that are needed to complete the job are included in the kit.
No longer will the car have to come up to operating temperature before the fan will start running when the A/C is turned on. This kit keeps everything simple and immediately starts cooling the A/C condenser as soon as the A/C switch or clutch is activated which eliminates the possibility of the A/C condenser overheating and possibly overheating the car.
This complete kit is available immediately for only $54.00. (part number 500784)
For picture and more info, click here.
Great question! The goal of any of our Classic Update Series kits is to marry the needs of today’s newer technology with the ease and simplicity of an OEM application and installation. They are built with the Resto-Mod, Pro-Touring, and Modified crowds in mind. All Classic Update kits are vehicle specific. In other words, the 64-67 GTO kit (available 12/20/2010) would be correct for a 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967 Pontiac GTO, Le Mans, and Tempest ONLY. We do not recommend trying to fit a Classic Update kit to any other years/makes/models than those specified.
The dash harness on a Classic Update kit is built to install in a given location, with a specific routing sequence. This assures an exact fit into the vehicle. The mating harnesses (dash cluster, engine, front light, rear body, console, etc.) have the main connectors on them, but the wire leads are all left long for custom routing by the customer. The custom fit and installation of these mating harnesses makes for a much nicer finished product. Unlike a universal harness, Classic Update Series kits give you the proper ends, lamp sockets, terminals, and connectors, bringing the harness as close to plug and play as possible. Classic Update kits also include ignition, headlamp, and dimmer switches that are engineered to fit the car as well. These kits tend to cost a bit more than universal kits due to all the extra features provided. However, you get what you pay for! Be sure to check out the 1964-1967 GTO kit when it releases on 12/20/2010.
By nature, universal harnesses can’t provide the vehicle-specific switches, connectors, etc. mentioned above. Also, any manufacturer’s universal harness will require you to do quite a bit of cutting and splicing, which may deter some customers. Another thing to consider is that you may end up trying to splice the 30-50 year old switch end and lamp socket pigtails from your old beat-up harness onto your brand new harness, which is extremely counterproductive.
American Autowire currently manufactures three lines of universal wiring kits: Builder, Power Plus, and Highway Series. These kits tend to be less expensive than their Classic Update cousins because of lower parts, research, and manufacture costs. This does not mean that American Autowire’s universal wiring kits are of a lower quality! It just means that it was not built to fit your specific car and your car only. These kits can be useful for price shoppers, non-restoration vehicles, custom projects, etc.
Consider what you need your wiring to do and what features your car will have. Look over each of these kits to find the best fit for your project.
The dash harness on a Classic Update kit is built to install in a given location, with a specific routing sequence. This assures an exact fit into the vehicle. The mating harnesses (dash cluster, engine, front light, rear body, console, etc.) have the main connectors on them, but the wire leads are all left long for custom routing by the customer. The custom fit and installation of these mating harnesses makes for a much nicer finished product. Unlike a universal harness, Classic Update Series kits give you the proper ends, lamp sockets, terminals, and connectors, bringing the harness as close to plug and play as possible. Classic Update kits also include ignition, headlamp, and dimmer switches that are engineered to fit the car as well. These kits tend to cost a bit more than universal kits due to all the extra features provided. However, you get what you pay for! Be sure to check out the 1964-1967 GTO kit when it releases on 12/20/2010.
By nature, universal harnesses can’t provide the vehicle-specific switches, connectors, etc. mentioned above. Also, any manufacturer’s universal harness will require you to do quite a bit of cutting and splicing, which may deter some customers. Another thing to consider is that you may end up trying to splice the 30-50 year old switch end and lamp socket pigtails from your old beat-up harness onto your brand new harness, which is extremely counterproductive.
American Autowire currently manufactures three lines of universal wiring kits: Builder, Power Plus, and Highway Series. These kits tend to be less expensive than their Classic Update cousins because of lower parts, research, and manufacture costs. This does not mean that American Autowire’s universal wiring kits are of a lower quality! It just means that it was not built to fit your specific car and your car only. These kits can be useful for price shoppers, non-restoration vehicles, custom projects, etc.
Consider what you need your wiring to do and what features your car will have. Look over each of these kits to find the best fit for your project.
Building a custom or street rod vehicle? American Autowire offers three product lines for custom and street rod wiring: Highway Series, Power Plus Series, and the Builder Series. Here you can compare the three lines to find right product for your project!
Click the link below to view a chart comparing the features of American Autowire’s three Custom/Street Rod product lines.
Custom/Street Rod Kit Comparison
Click the link below to view a chart comparing the features of American Autowire’s three Custom/Street Rod product lines.
Custom/Street Rod Kit Comparison
Key Features of American Autowire Wiring Kits
1. Rock Solid Panel:
Able to be placed in locations not limited to the Dash/Firewall area.
2. Wires Connected as Needed:
Avoids handling clumps of wires
3. 1-Sided Panel Connections:
Provides neat dressing of wires
4. Unique Connections:
Uses self-locking screw down connection to panel according to Hooke’s Law
5. Excellent Connection:
Strength: Demonstrable pull test according to Hooke’s Law using a “U PULL IT” prop
6. Heavier Gauge Wiring:
All bus bars are 6 gauge (instead of 10) preventing overheating even with a full load of accessories
7. Fuse Connection Terminal:
Uses a unique spring steel clip between the “McDonald Arches” preventing loose connections or hot spots
8. Heavier Fused Circuits:
All power circuits are 12 gauge (rated for 40 Amps). In case of an over load, the panel fuses (30 Amps Max) will blow protecting the wires.
9. Protected Feed Wire:
The panel feed wire on the Highway 22 is 8 gauge and protected by a 175 Amp MegaFuse™ Safety Device
10. Modular Panel:
Allows for expansion and is all plastic, non metal construction
11. Legible Wiring:
American Autowire’s marking is the BEST in the industry using a larger, clearer print and marked every 2-3 inches
12. Full Color Instructions:
Our Wiring Instructions and Schematics are detailed in full color with step-by-step procedures to make wiring easy
1. Rock Solid Panel:
Able to be placed in locations not limited to the Dash/Firewall area.
2. Wires Connected as Needed:
Avoids handling clumps of wires
3. 1-Sided Panel Connections:
Provides neat dressing of wires
4. Unique Connections:
Uses self-locking screw down connection to panel according to Hooke’s Law
5. Excellent Connection:
Strength: Demonstrable pull test according to Hooke’s Law using a “U PULL IT” prop
6. Heavier Gauge Wiring:
All bus bars are 6 gauge (instead of 10) preventing overheating even with a full load of accessories
7. Fuse Connection Terminal:
Uses a unique spring steel clip between the “McDonald Arches” preventing loose connections or hot spots
8. Heavier Fused Circuits:
All power circuits are 12 gauge (rated for 40 Amps). In case of an over load, the panel fuses (30 Amps Max) will blow protecting the wires.
9. Protected Feed Wire:
The panel feed wire on the Highway 22 is 8 gauge and protected by a 175 Amp MegaFuse™ Safety Device
10. Modular Panel:
Allows for expansion and is all plastic, non metal construction
11. Legible Wiring:
American Autowire’s marking is the BEST in the industry using a larger, clearer print and marked every 2-3 inches
12. Full Color Instructions:
Our Wiring Instructions and Schematics are detailed in full color with step-by-step procedures to make wiring easy
Click the link below to view a PDF of the press release listing the features of the Lifeline Memory Retention Module.
Lifeline Press Release
*Press release is in PDF format and may require a brief download.
Lifeline Press Release
*Press release is in PDF format and may require a brief download.
Lifeline Memory Retention Module
Click the thumbnail above to view larger.
There are a several deciding factors when choosing how to re-wire your car. Today, there are so many choices and it can be confusing. The first thing to do is to decide what your intentions are with the car. Generally speaking, the two choices you are inquiring about are your best bets.
If the modifications you have listed are your only deviations from stock, the right choice would seem to be OEM harnesses modified for your application (from our Factory Fit line). Items like HEI or MSD ignition, internally regulated or updated type alternators are easy modifications that American Autowire can include on an otherwise stock harness. In most instances, these updates do carry a modest up-charge fee.
While wiring the car bumper to bumper with the Factory Fit modified OEM harnesses will cost about $250-$300 more than the matching 1970-72 Nova Classic Update kit ($569 retail, check it out here), there may be other things to consider the initial cost.
The first is how the cost is distributed. The great thing about doing an OEM style re-wire is that you can buy the harnesses as you can afford them. This can be helpful when you are on a budget. Just as GM did, we build individual dash, engine, forward lamp, console, rear body, and other harnesses. Because of this, you can buy a dash and console now, the under hood items in a month, and the rear body harness later.
The other aspect is time. With the OEM styled harnesses, the installation time is cut by as much as 50-75%, when compared to a Classic Update kit. This is a huge consideration, especially if you are paying someone else to wire your car. Generally, the OEM harnesses can be done in a day, or about 8-10 hours as they are completely built for you and include every connector, terminal, clamp, or clip so they render a true “plug and play” experience. The kits on the other hand require you to lay out, cut and terminate all but the dash harness. Depending on the complexity of your build and how gutted the car is, 30-40 hours (and sometimes more) is not out of the question. Do the math. If you are paying someone $50/hour and it takes them 30 hours to complete the installation, that’s $1,500.00. The OEM can be done in about 10 hours, or about $500.00. In other words, the extra $300.00 you spend will save you about $700.00 on the back end of the job.
On the other hand, if your car has more than your previously listed modifications or time is less of a factor, the Classic Update kit could still be a valid option.
For an exact quote on your application, I would suggest that you contact our Sales group and explain to them what your planned build is about, and what options you may be adding now or even in the future. Or, if you would rather get a quote online, try our Factory Fit quote tool here.
If the modifications you have listed are your only deviations from stock, the right choice would seem to be OEM harnesses modified for your application (from our Factory Fit line). Items like HEI or MSD ignition, internally regulated or updated type alternators are easy modifications that American Autowire can include on an otherwise stock harness. In most instances, these updates do carry a modest up-charge fee.
While wiring the car bumper to bumper with the Factory Fit modified OEM harnesses will cost about $250-$300 more than the matching 1970-72 Nova Classic Update kit ($569 retail, check it out here), there may be other things to consider the initial cost.
The first is how the cost is distributed. The great thing about doing an OEM style re-wire is that you can buy the harnesses as you can afford them. This can be helpful when you are on a budget. Just as GM did, we build individual dash, engine, forward lamp, console, rear body, and other harnesses. Because of this, you can buy a dash and console now, the under hood items in a month, and the rear body harness later.
The other aspect is time. With the OEM styled harnesses, the installation time is cut by as much as 50-75%, when compared to a Classic Update kit. This is a huge consideration, especially if you are paying someone else to wire your car. Generally, the OEM harnesses can be done in a day, or about 8-10 hours as they are completely built for you and include every connector, terminal, clamp, or clip so they render a true “plug and play” experience. The kits on the other hand require you to lay out, cut and terminate all but the dash harness. Depending on the complexity of your build and how gutted the car is, 30-40 hours (and sometimes more) is not out of the question. Do the math. If you are paying someone $50/hour and it takes them 30 hours to complete the installation, that’s $1,500.00. The OEM can be done in about 10 hours, or about $500.00. In other words, the extra $300.00 you spend will save you about $700.00 on the back end of the job.
On the other hand, if your car has more than your previously listed modifications or time is less of a factor, the Classic Update kit could still be a valid option.
For an exact quote on your application, I would suggest that you contact our Sales group and explain to them what your planned build is about, and what options you may be adding now or even in the future. Or, if you would rather get a quote online, try our Factory Fit quote tool here.
Problem:
Our tech and sales team received reports stating 1967-1968 Mustangs with 2 speed wipers without washers would fail to return to the park position when the wiper switch was turned off.
Solution:
We assembled all of the 1968 Mustang parts, (wiper switch, motor and washer coordinator) tested them together, and were able to verify the concern. We concluded that the black/yellow wire (circuit W12) and the black wire (circuit W13) at the washer coordinator needed to be connected to bring full functionality to the system.
With these two wires connected, and the remaining two washer coordinator wires (red/blue and white) not connected, you have low speed, high speed and park. This means the dynamic brake function (what is responsible for electronically “locking” the motor in the park position) will function correctly.
Here are the assumptions for this resolution to work:
1. You have a 1967-68 Mustang.
2. You have our Classic Update kit.
3. You have a 2-speed wiper system.
4. You’ve connected our washer wiring to the wiper switch motor.
5. You realize that you won't have a washer function.
6. You don't connect to a washer coordinator.
7. You connect our wires W12 (black/yellow) and W13 (black) together.
8. Wires W7A (white/red) and W2A (red/blue) don't get connected to anything.
Our tech and sales team received reports stating 1967-1968 Mustangs with 2 speed wipers without washers would fail to return to the park position when the wiper switch was turned off.
Solution:
We assembled all of the 1968 Mustang parts, (wiper switch, motor and washer coordinator) tested them together, and were able to verify the concern. We concluded that the black/yellow wire (circuit W12) and the black wire (circuit W13) at the washer coordinator needed to be connected to bring full functionality to the system.
With these two wires connected, and the remaining two washer coordinator wires (red/blue and white) not connected, you have low speed, high speed and park. This means the dynamic brake function (what is responsible for electronically “locking” the motor in the park position) will function correctly.
Here are the assumptions for this resolution to work:
1. You have a 1967-68 Mustang.
2. You have our Classic Update kit.
3. You have a 2-speed wiper system.
4. You’ve connected our washer wiring to the wiper switch motor.
5. You realize that you won't have a washer function.
6. You don't connect to a washer coordinator.
7. You connect our wires W12 (black/yellow) and W13 (black) together.
8. Wires W7A (white/red) and W2A (red/blue) don't get connected to anything.
In 1969 and 1970, Pontiac used 2 unique ignition switches, one for tilt and one for non-tilt. The other divisions also had 2, tilt and non tilt as well. The Pontiacs were unique in that they were different than all other GM lines as they had 1 extra blade on them. The Pontiacs all had an extra cavity in the clear connector at the switch and that extra blade on which to plug that cavity. It is the resistor bypass circuit and must be used or the car will not start in most instances. That particular blade sends a 12v signal to the coil when cranking the car. The pink ignition circuit plays to the coil through a resistance wire and only delivers about 9 volts to the coil which will generally not be enough voltage to start the car. The car runs on between 9.0 and 9.6 fine, but needs 12-14 to start. Unfortunately, the Pontiacs used a starter without a bypass circuit and took their bypass feed directly off the ignition switch. The dash harnesses in these cars are wired accordingly. You MUST use that yellow wire, and have a switch for that wire to plug onto or the car most likely will not start. Once in a great while, an engine will spin freely enough that once you get the engine turning over and release the key, it may catch and start, but that is an extreme exception, not the rule.
In conclusion, you will need to find a PONTIAC ONLY, TILT ignition switch to bolt onto this column, or the column will be useless in your car. The Pontiac non-tilt switch will not work on a tilt column either. Unfortunately, neither of those switches are commercially available any longer either. The switches listed and sold in many repro catalogs are really for a Chevy, Olds, Buick, etc. application and as such, DO NOT have the extra blade needed in the Pontiac application and will NOT WORK with a Pontiac dash harness and electrical system. Most likely, the only way to get one of the correct switches, is to find a good used or NOS one.
In conclusion, you will need to find a PONTIAC ONLY, TILT ignition switch to bolt onto this column, or the column will be useless in your car. The Pontiac non-tilt switch will not work on a tilt column either. Unfortunately, neither of those switches are commercially available any longer either. The switches listed and sold in many repro catalogs are really for a Chevy, Olds, Buick, etc. application and as such, DO NOT have the extra blade needed in the Pontiac application and will NOT WORK with a Pontiac dash harness and electrical system. Most likely, the only way to get one of the correct switches, is to find a good used or NOS one.
Ammeters were used by many manufacturers over the years to measure the rate of charge over a given path and length of wire within their electrical systems. This was almost always done in parallel to the charging circuit. In other words, it is a battery fed circuit that is totally live at all times, and in many instances is completely unfused.
Power demands increased in the mid-1970’s due to the many electrical accessories that those cars had installed on them. Along with the increased power demands of these newer vehicles, a higher powered (70 amp and up) alternator was also utilized to charge those systems. As the alternator output increased, the likelihood of a catastrophic failure from a high-powered unfused battery circuit inside the car, also increased. For this reason, most all OEM’s changed from an ammeter to a voltmeter to measure the health of their electrical systems. A voltmeter simply measures a keyed and fused voltage source off of an ignition circuit, and is much safer than a battery hot ammeter circuit. The worst circumstance that will ever occur in the case of a shorted voltmeter is a blown fuse, thus eliminating the chance of the previously mentioned catastrophic failure. (For all of you 1968-9 Camaro and 1968-74 Nova owners who are running the factory console gauges in your resto-mod type car, AAW is once again leading the industry and is developing a voltmeter to install into the stock ammeter location of those gauge packs. Contact our sales group for availability).
Today’s OEM and aftermarket alternators are almost all capable of charging at a rate of 100 amps or higher and the OEM’s to this day are still continuing to rely on a voltmeter to measure the operation of their systems. Many of today’s Street Rods, Customs, and Pro-Touring vehicles are also being retrofitted with these same, newer designed, higher output alternators. As with the OEM’s decision 30+ years ago, continuing to use a factory installed ammeter in any modified vehicle is an extremely unsafe situation. This is one compelling reason that AAW DOES NOT SUPPORT the use of any factory installed ammeter when using an upgraded system. You will find that all of our upgraded kits including, but not limited to, Classic Update Series, Power Plus Series, Builder Series, and Highway Series DO NOT include wiring for an ammeter. This was done with the safety of our customer’s vehicles in mind. Another reason that we do not support the use of a factory ammeter is that all of our kits are high performance units and as such, great care was taken to design those systems to operate with a minimum of voltage drop. The most efficient way to charge your battery is to run the charge wire directly back to the main power source, not back into a splice as the OEM’s did. When we do this, it changes the path of the charge. If you recall, we stated that an OEM ammeter was manufactured to read the flow of electricity over a given path. By changing that path to be much more efficient, the gauge will no longer register correctly.
With all of this said, any Factory Fit Brand OEM styled harness that calls for a factory-installed ammeter will be wired according to the original GM engineering drawings. None of these harnesses will be affected by AAW’s position on their modified kits and all factory-installed ammeters used in conjunction with any Factory Fit harness system will work properly and will read correctly.
By: Don Bock
R&D Manager, American Autowire, Inc.
Power demands increased in the mid-1970’s due to the many electrical accessories that those cars had installed on them. Along with the increased power demands of these newer vehicles, a higher powered (70 amp and up) alternator was also utilized to charge those systems. As the alternator output increased, the likelihood of a catastrophic failure from a high-powered unfused battery circuit inside the car, also increased. For this reason, most all OEM’s changed from an ammeter to a voltmeter to measure the health of their electrical systems. A voltmeter simply measures a keyed and fused voltage source off of an ignition circuit, and is much safer than a battery hot ammeter circuit. The worst circumstance that will ever occur in the case of a shorted voltmeter is a blown fuse, thus eliminating the chance of the previously mentioned catastrophic failure. (For all of you 1968-9 Camaro and 1968-74 Nova owners who are running the factory console gauges in your resto-mod type car, AAW is once again leading the industry and is developing a voltmeter to install into the stock ammeter location of those gauge packs. Contact our sales group for availability).
Today’s OEM and aftermarket alternators are almost all capable of charging at a rate of 100 amps or higher and the OEM’s to this day are still continuing to rely on a voltmeter to measure the operation of their systems. Many of today’s Street Rods, Customs, and Pro-Touring vehicles are also being retrofitted with these same, newer designed, higher output alternators. As with the OEM’s decision 30+ years ago, continuing to use a factory installed ammeter in any modified vehicle is an extremely unsafe situation. This is one compelling reason that AAW DOES NOT SUPPORT the use of any factory installed ammeter when using an upgraded system. You will find that all of our upgraded kits including, but not limited to, Classic Update Series, Power Plus Series, Builder Series, and Highway Series DO NOT include wiring for an ammeter. This was done with the safety of our customer’s vehicles in mind. Another reason that we do not support the use of a factory ammeter is that all of our kits are high performance units and as such, great care was taken to design those systems to operate with a minimum of voltage drop. The most efficient way to charge your battery is to run the charge wire directly back to the main power source, not back into a splice as the OEM’s did. When we do this, it changes the path of the charge. If you recall, we stated that an OEM ammeter was manufactured to read the flow of electricity over a given path. By changing that path to be much more efficient, the gauge will no longer register correctly.
With all of this said, any Factory Fit Brand OEM styled harness that calls for a factory-installed ammeter will be wired according to the original GM engineering drawings. None of these harnesses will be affected by AAW’s position on their modified kits and all factory-installed ammeters used in conjunction with any Factory Fit harness system will work properly and will read correctly.
By: Don Bock
R&D Manager, American Autowire, Inc.
An alternator produces electricity used to charge the battery and to help run the electrical accessories, including the ignition and the engine control systems. It is belt-driven by the engine and produces an alternating current (AC), which is converted internally to 12 volts direct current (DC) by the diode bridge or rectifiers.
Most alternators now use internal voltage regulators to maintain the proper system voltage, from 13.6-14.6 volts.
An alternator cycles on and off as demands increase and decrease. The battery buffers it from the electrical demands of the car, and it only works enough to maintain system voltage. At peak efficiency, the alternator should be charging no more than about 50% of the time.
However, with the demands placed on the system by heat and electrical devices (i.e., high powered stereos, running lights, etc., the alternator and battery are stressed even further. The average alternator is lucky to last 3-4 years.
Typical Power Demands (draw) on a car’s charging system are as follows:
Most alternators now use internal voltage regulators to maintain the proper system voltage, from 13.6-14.6 volts.
An alternator cycles on and off as demands increase and decrease. The battery buffers it from the electrical demands of the car, and it only works enough to maintain system voltage. At peak efficiency, the alternator should be charging no more than about 50% of the time.
However, with the demands placed on the system by heat and electrical devices (i.e., high powered stereos, running lights, etc., the alternator and battery are stressed even further. The average alternator is lucky to last 3-4 years.
Typical Power Demands (draw) on a car’s charging system are as follows:
| Rear Window Defogger | 25 amps |
| High Blower | 20 amps |
| Headlamps (low) | 15 amps |
| Windshield Wipers | 6 amps |
| Ignition | 6 amps |
| Brake Lights | 5 amps |
| Total | 77 amps |
Anatomy of a Vehicle Electrical System
Click the thumbnail above to view larger.
When connecting or disconnecting an automotive battery, it is advisable to wear safety glasses and remove any jewelry that could come in contact with the batteries positive post and surrounding metal. Most automotive batteries contain sulfuric acid and if the battery is shorted it can cause severe injury to your eyes and skin.
Do not replace a blown fuse with one that has a higher amperage rating. The fuse has a specific amperage rating because it is intended to be the weak link in the circuit to protect the electrical components. A blown fuse indicates excessive current has entered the circuit. This can be caused by a number of things: a shorted electrical component, a faulty or accidental connection between two different circuits, just to name a few. It is recommended to bring your vehicle to someone who specializes in auto electrical problems.
The importance of having an operational warning light for the alternator (idiot light) is crucial to catching problems early. In most modern systems, the electrical current passing through the filament of the warning light is what energizes a circuit in the alternator to start charging.
To check the warning light circuit, turn the ignition switch to the “on” position without cranking or starting the engine; if the idiot light does not come on, remove the plug from the alternator and ground the sense wire (wire connected to the bulb). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the alternator is defective; if the light still does not come on, the wiring to the light circuit and the bulb should be checked.
Don’t forget to check the fuse that controls the light circuit, too. This fuse could be labeled differently in various cars. It could be labeled “charging”, “regulator”, “meters”, “gauges” or “engine”. In some cars, if the fuse is out, the idiot light will come on but may not go off. In others (like GM), a burned out fuse may make the warning light work in reverse order; that is, when the key is on, the light is off but as soon as the engine starts and the alternator starts charging, the light will come on.
Checking further into charge light indicators, in some cases it is normal for the charge indicator light to come on when nothing is wrong with the alternator.
According to information published by GM, any car may have a low voltage reading or lights that dim when electrical loads are heavy at idle. Furthermore, this condition is normal and no repairs should be attempted unless a fault has been found.
If a car idles for extended periods of time during high heat conditions, the heat within the alternator increases, the electrical resistance in the alternator also increases, which reduces the alternator’s charging capacity.
With the alternator’s capacity for charging reduced by heat and other factors, an alternator may only be able to produce up to 70% of its rated output. So an alternator rated for 100 amps may only be able to produce 70 amps when hot at idle when there is 77 or more amps of demand on it.
In the case of Delco CS series alternators, there is a tool available from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B), which isolates the alternator from the car’s wiring harness and shows whether the alternator is at fault, or whether there is a wiring problem elsewhere within the car’s wiring harness. The best thing about this tool, besides being compact and handheld, is that it doesn’t require any interpretation of data by the operator. The little light on the unit lights or doesn’t light, depending upon whether the alternator is good or not.
To check the warning light circuit, turn the ignition switch to the “on” position without cranking or starting the engine; if the idiot light does not come on, remove the plug from the alternator and ground the sense wire (wire connected to the bulb). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the alternator is defective; if the light still does not come on, the wiring to the light circuit and the bulb should be checked.
Don’t forget to check the fuse that controls the light circuit, too. This fuse could be labeled differently in various cars. It could be labeled “charging”, “regulator”, “meters”, “gauges” or “engine”. In some cars, if the fuse is out, the idiot light will come on but may not go off. In others (like GM), a burned out fuse may make the warning light work in reverse order; that is, when the key is on, the light is off but as soon as the engine starts and the alternator starts charging, the light will come on.
Checking further into charge light indicators, in some cases it is normal for the charge indicator light to come on when nothing is wrong with the alternator.
According to information published by GM, any car may have a low voltage reading or lights that dim when electrical loads are heavy at idle. Furthermore, this condition is normal and no repairs should be attempted unless a fault has been found.
If a car idles for extended periods of time during high heat conditions, the heat within the alternator increases, the electrical resistance in the alternator also increases, which reduces the alternator’s charging capacity.
With the alternator’s capacity for charging reduced by heat and other factors, an alternator may only be able to produce up to 70% of its rated output. So an alternator rated for 100 amps may only be able to produce 70 amps when hot at idle when there is 77 or more amps of demand on it.
In the case of Delco CS series alternators, there is a tool available from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B), which isolates the alternator from the car’s wiring harness and shows whether the alternator is at fault, or whether there is a wiring problem elsewhere within the car’s wiring harness. The best thing about this tool, besides being compact and handheld, is that it doesn’t require any interpretation of data by the operator. The little light on the unit lights or doesn’t light, depending upon whether the alternator is good or not.
“A problem well-stated is half solved.” Delco founder Charles Kettering was truly on to something with that one. Whether you’re dealing with an engine misfire or turn signals that won’t flash, automotive difficulties have a way of becoming easier to resolve once you’ve explored your options and you know where to focus. Finding the ideal wiring harness is no different.
American Autowire builds three distinct product lines, all of which work toward their own specific solution:
Factory Fit.
Factory Fit harnesses are made for GM vehicles using original engineering blueprints. This means they are plug and play replacements for the wiring installed in your vehicle on the factory assembly line. Each harness section (under-dash, rear body, etc) is available as an individual part number, the same way they would have been at a dealership parts department.
If you’re updating to a more modern high energy (12-volt) ignition system, or installing an internally regulated alternator American Autowire can also modify most engine and front harnesses for an easier installation.
With Factory Fit you have the ability to rewire one section of the car, or the entire vehicle. Harnesses route just like the originals, and each part comes assembled and ready to install. Just remove the original, plug in the replacement and you’re done!
Classic Update.
Pro-touring, restomod or pro-street. We understand not everyone wants to keep things original, and and modification goes by many names.Classic Update kits, however, can be summed up with one quick phrase; complete, vehicle-specific modified restoration wiring.
Update kits are designed to provide more available circuits than an original wiring set, including extra power feeds for options like aftermarket air-conditioning, power windows or even fuel injection.
All kits include a modern, ATO-style fuse boxes, along with the dash, engine compartment and rear body sections needed to completely replace your original harness. Extra-long wire lengths in engine compartment and rear body sections allow for custom routing, but correct original-style lamp sockets and connectors make your final installation simple.
You’re upgrading your car as well as your wiring….why reuse your old lamp sockets? Each Classic Update kit is designed to rewire a complete vehicle, headlight to taillight.
Highly modified and completely custom.
Need even more room to customize your street rod, race car or highly-modified classic? Sometimes stating the problem means making your own solution.
Our modular Highway kits allow you to change the mounting location of the fuse box, create custom routing and build the harness section by section to suit your car. American Autowire also manufactures several equally expandable under-dash style kits in our Power Plus and Builder fuse boxes.
Each custom harness also comes complete, with all the sections needed to rewire a full vehicle chassis. Larger capacity panels, such as the Highway 22, Power Plus 20 and Builder 19 are perfect for electrically intensive cars. Track only, rat rod or a basic street rods will find the Highway 15 or Power Plus 13 kits more than adequate to address all the must have items, with a little extra room for accessories down the line.
Every car needs wiring, no matter how basic or advanced. Identifying the correct wiring resolution for your build helps ensure the rest of the project falls into place one circuit, or turn of a wrench at a time.
It is important to keep all connections clean and tight to avoid corrosion, resistance and arcing. The must important places to check for poor connections are the battery, alternator and starter.
All electrical circuit requires a complete circuit to operate. Voltage to a device will not be sufficient unless there is also a complete ground path to the battery. The ground path for a metal-bodied car is the body itself. In fiberglass-bodied cars, a separate ground wire is needed to connect the load to the chassis. In either case, a poor ground connection will have the same effect as an open switch.
To check wiring for continuity, an ohmmeter or a self-powered test light is needed. An ohmmeter is preferred because it displays the precise amount of resistance between the test points. When using a test light, it will glow when there is continuity, however the intensity of the bulb may vary depending on the amount of resistance in the circuit. The test light is good for making quick checks.
Never use an ohmmeter to check resistance when battery voltage is present in the circuit. Eliminate the power source by disconnecting the battery or removing the fuse so there is no voltage in the circuit. You may damage the ohmmeter by connecting it to live voltage.
Caution should be taken when using an ohmmeter to check voltage in some electronic components (such as the oxygen sensor) as the ohmmeter applies a small amount of voltage through its test leads and could cause damage to the component. Special high impedance 10,000 mega-ohmmeters should be used for electronics testing.
When tracing wires for continuity be aware that the wires sometimes change color after passing through a connector, switch or relay. Always refer to a wiring diagram when possible.
To check wiring for continuity, an ohmmeter or a self-powered test light is needed. An ohmmeter is preferred because it displays the precise amount of resistance between the test points. When using a test light, it will glow when there is continuity, however the intensity of the bulb may vary depending on the amount of resistance in the circuit. The test light is good for making quick checks.
Never use an ohmmeter to check resistance when battery voltage is present in the circuit. Eliminate the power source by disconnecting the battery or removing the fuse so there is no voltage in the circuit. You may damage the ohmmeter by connecting it to live voltage.
Caution should be taken when using an ohmmeter to check voltage in some electronic components (such as the oxygen sensor) as the ohmmeter applies a small amount of voltage through its test leads and could cause damage to the component. Special high impedance 10,000 mega-ohmmeters should be used for electronics testing.
When tracing wires for continuity be aware that the wires sometimes change color after passing through a connector, switch or relay. Always refer to a wiring diagram when possible.
Below you can find descriptions of three types of crimping tools. Please see “Proper Crimping 101″ for information on how to make correct terminal crimps.
Q: Why would my battery die in a day or two?
A: There are a few things that can do this. The first and most obvious is the condition of the battery. If a battery is old, or is in a car that seldom gets used and is stored for great lengths of time, the internals can sulfate and go bad. When this happens, the battery will appear to take a charge, but will not hold it. You’ll want to recharge you battery on a slow setting and try to bring it back up and see how it reacts. A good battery will generally read between 13.6 and 14.6 volts at rest. Once completely charged, do a draw test (if you have that capability) and see how the battery reacts. If the battery drops below 9-10 volts on a heavy draw and stays below where it was before you performed the test, there’s a good chance that you need a new battery. Generally, if a battery is over about 4 years old and continues going dead, it’s safe bet that the battery has outlived its useful life. This can happen almost overnight in the fall or winter. A batter that has given you no indication that it has any problems will appear to die “overnight”. As the days and nights get colder, the useful cranking amps of a battery begin to diminish as the electrons move more slowly in the cold and you can actually get a break in the internal cells of the battery as well. When this happens, it’s time to buy a new battery.
The other thing that can happen, is a heavy draw on the battery when it is at rest, can discharge the battery almost overnight. The logical thing to do, is once again, recharge the battery in a slow fashion. It is best to remove the negative cable to do this and charge the battery either in or out of the vehicle. After the battery has been brought back up to the proper charge level, and before hooking the negative cable back up, take a test light and connect it between the negative cable and negative battery post. If your test lamp lights up, than you have a draw on your system. The brighter the light, the heavier the draw. If the light comes on dimly, something such as a clock or digital radio can cause a slight draw and give you this scenario. This will eventually kill the battery, but will usually take a very long time to do so, especially if the battery is in good operating condition.
If you get a bright and persistent light, this is an indication of a draw heavy enough to quickly kill your battery. Locating the source of the draw is easier than you might think. With the test light still hooked up as outlined above between the negative post on the negative cable and with a brightly illuminated light, start removing fuses one at a time. This will generally occur on a “battery” circuit or one that is hot all the time (things like a lighter, courtesy lamps, stop lamps, dome lamp, etc.). When the light goes off, you have found the offending circuit. Once you have determined the problem circuit, see what is connected into that circuit and start unplugging those items one at a time (This method also works on a circuit that blows a fuse). Again, when the light goes out, you have found your culprit. Fix and repair it as necessary.
Now even with all the fuses pulled, the light continues to stay on. That tells us that the problem is being caused by a “battery unfused circuit”. Things like a voltage regulator, alternator, ignition switch, headlight switch, and even some lighters will be on an unfused circuit. Again, start unhooking these items one at a time being careful not to ground them out (as being unfused, these leads and will cause quite a mess if grounded out). Internally regulated alternators, while usually a great product, are notorious for developing an open diode inside of them that diverts 12 volts to ground and drains a battery overnight. They will charge a battery, operate perfectly, and give you no indication of any problem. Disconnecting the alternator and having the test lamp go out finds this problem for you.
A: There are a few things that can do this. The first and most obvious is the condition of the battery. If a battery is old, or is in a car that seldom gets used and is stored for great lengths of time, the internals can sulfate and go bad. When this happens, the battery will appear to take a charge, but will not hold it. You’ll want to recharge you battery on a slow setting and try to bring it back up and see how it reacts. A good battery will generally read between 13.6 and 14.6 volts at rest. Once completely charged, do a draw test (if you have that capability) and see how the battery reacts. If the battery drops below 9-10 volts on a heavy draw and stays below where it was before you performed the test, there’s a good chance that you need a new battery. Generally, if a battery is over about 4 years old and continues going dead, it’s safe bet that the battery has outlived its useful life. This can happen almost overnight in the fall or winter. A batter that has given you no indication that it has any problems will appear to die “overnight”. As the days and nights get colder, the useful cranking amps of a battery begin to diminish as the electrons move more slowly in the cold and you can actually get a break in the internal cells of the battery as well. When this happens, it’s time to buy a new battery.
The other thing that can happen, is a heavy draw on the battery when it is at rest, can discharge the battery almost overnight. The logical thing to do, is once again, recharge the battery in a slow fashion. It is best to remove the negative cable to do this and charge the battery either in or out of the vehicle. After the battery has been brought back up to the proper charge level, and before hooking the negative cable back up, take a test light and connect it between the negative cable and negative battery post. If your test lamp lights up, than you have a draw on your system. The brighter the light, the heavier the draw. If the light comes on dimly, something such as a clock or digital radio can cause a slight draw and give you this scenario. This will eventually kill the battery, but will usually take a very long time to do so, especially if the battery is in good operating condition.
If you get a bright and persistent light, this is an indication of a draw heavy enough to quickly kill your battery. Locating the source of the draw is easier than you might think. With the test light still hooked up as outlined above between the negative post on the negative cable and with a brightly illuminated light, start removing fuses one at a time. This will generally occur on a “battery” circuit or one that is hot all the time (things like a lighter, courtesy lamps, stop lamps, dome lamp, etc.). When the light goes off, you have found the offending circuit. Once you have determined the problem circuit, see what is connected into that circuit and start unplugging those items one at a time (This method also works on a circuit that blows a fuse). Again, when the light goes out, you have found your culprit. Fix and repair it as necessary.
Now even with all the fuses pulled, the light continues to stay on. That tells us that the problem is being caused by a “battery unfused circuit”. Things like a voltage regulator, alternator, ignition switch, headlight switch, and even some lighters will be on an unfused circuit. Again, start unhooking these items one at a time being careful not to ground them out (as being unfused, these leads and will cause quite a mess if grounded out). Internally regulated alternators, while usually a great product, are notorious for developing an open diode inside of them that diverts 12 volts to ground and drains a battery overnight. They will charge a battery, operate perfectly, and give you no indication of any problem. Disconnecting the alternator and having the test lamp go out finds this problem for you.
Battery cable is large automotive cable. Like smaller types of automotive wire, it is available in PVC and cross-linked forms. Click here to read an earlier post explaining the differences between PVC and cross-linked wire insulation.
One type of PVC battery cable is SGT cable. It is rated to 80°C and therefore can be used in starters or battery grounds. Cross-linked battery cables can also be used in starter and battery ground applications, and they are more resistant to heat, abrasion, and aging than PVC cable.
Two types of cross-linked battery cable are SGX and STX. They are rated to 125°C. Of the three types of battery cable (SGT, SGX, amd STX), STX has the thinnest wall, making it a popular choice for automotive applications with limited space.
One type of PVC battery cable is SGT cable. It is rated to 80°C and therefore can be used in starters or battery grounds. Cross-linked battery cables can also be used in starter and battery ground applications, and they are more resistant to heat, abrasion, and aging than PVC cable.
Two types of cross-linked battery cable are SGX and STX. They are rated to 125°C. Of the three types of battery cable (SGT, SGX, amd STX), STX has the thinnest wall, making it a popular choice for automotive applications with limited space.
There is a combination of 2 tools that we recommend to do that job properly. The Double Crimper (part# 500523) crimps the heavy 10-12 gauge wires and double wire crimps, and the Splice Clip Crimper (part# 500649) crimps the 14-18 gauge single wire crimps. These two tools are investment quality products that will last a lifetime when cared for properly. The tools were specifically designed by Delphi-Packard to crimp the quality OEM open barrel Delphi Packard terminals that we supply with our kits. The tools are available to be purchased or rented from American Autowire. Most who do rent them, actually end up keeping them…. they are that good!
Open barrel terminals offer the best possible connection to a wire as long as they are applied properly. We would recommend that both tools mentioned above be used to ensure the best possible performance of your new harness kit. These tools deliver the best mechanical crimp available for the OEM Delphi Packard terminals. The tools roll the wings of the terminals down into the wire, and when applied properly with the correct pressure and tooling, will keep the wire from pulling out of the crimped terminal. A proper crimp will help you avoid such things as a high resistance connection that ultimately will create excessive heat and premature failure of a harness or connection.
Even though we recommend using the Delphi Packard crimpers, it is not necessary that you use only those crimpers. Many home auto enthusiasts choose to use generic crimpers to just snug the terminal onto the wire and then spot solder each connection. If you choose this route and do a good job, you should have good results. However, just be aware that your time to install the kit will be raised significantly by having to solder each and every connection that you need to make. Is crimping the terminals this way the best way? No, but it will work. Remember to use the solder sparingly. Too much can cause the solder and flux to wick up inside the wire casing, causing a brittle connection and possibly other issues in the future.
We have investigated many other crimping tools over the years, but none do the job as well as the original Delphi Packard crimpers. For example, Snap-On and Mac each make one crimper that is pretty good, but still does cover the complete range of terminals that the Delphi Packard tools do. In addition, they are priced similarly to the Delphi Packard crimpers.
The bottom line is that if you want the proper tools to do a job the right way, they do cost a bit more, and our feelings are “the right tools for the best job”.
For more information and a video demonstration, visit the crimping tools section of our website.
Open barrel terminals offer the best possible connection to a wire as long as they are applied properly. We would recommend that both tools mentioned above be used to ensure the best possible performance of your new harness kit. These tools deliver the best mechanical crimp available for the OEM Delphi Packard terminals. The tools roll the wings of the terminals down into the wire, and when applied properly with the correct pressure and tooling, will keep the wire from pulling out of the crimped terminal. A proper crimp will help you avoid such things as a high resistance connection that ultimately will create excessive heat and premature failure of a harness or connection.
Even though we recommend using the Delphi Packard crimpers, it is not necessary that you use only those crimpers. Many home auto enthusiasts choose to use generic crimpers to just snug the terminal onto the wire and then spot solder each connection. If you choose this route and do a good job, you should have good results. However, just be aware that your time to install the kit will be raised significantly by having to solder each and every connection that you need to make. Is crimping the terminals this way the best way? No, but it will work. Remember to use the solder sparingly. Too much can cause the solder and flux to wick up inside the wire casing, causing a brittle connection and possibly other issues in the future.
We have investigated many other crimping tools over the years, but none do the job as well as the original Delphi Packard crimpers. For example, Snap-On and Mac each make one crimper that is pretty good, but still does cover the complete range of terminals that the Delphi Packard tools do. In addition, they are priced similarly to the Delphi Packard crimpers.
The bottom line is that if you want the proper tools to do a job the right way, they do cost a bit more, and our feelings are “the right tools for the best job”.
For more information and a video demonstration, visit the crimping tools section of our website.
From our Tech Tips series of videos…in this installment, Michael Manning addresses the proper use of our Electric Fan Relay Kit. Click below to watch the video:
Electric Fan Connection Using Fan Relay Kit
Electric Fan Connection Using Fan Relay Kit
Electrical circuits require voltage to operate the components connected to the specific circuit. So if there is no voltage, there is no function. When troubleshooting electrical problems, it is good to check for voltage at the load point in the circuit.
The load point is the element that the circuit provides power to. It could be a light bulb, wiper motor, blower motor, etc. The load point can be checked with a voltmeter or a 12-volt test light. A voltmeter is the better choice because it will give you an exact voltage reading, although a test light will work fine for performing quick voltage checks.
If there is no voltage found at the load point, you should first check the fuse, fuse link or circuit breaker that protects the circuit, or the power relay that supplies voltage to the circuit.
If the problem is a blown fuse, replacing the fuse may restore power temporarily, but unless the underlying cause for the overload is found and corrected, your “fix” probably will not last. Whatever you do, do not substitute a fuse of greater capacity! A larger fuse may be able to handle a greater load but the wiring and the rest of the circuit cannot. A circuit designed for a 10 amp fuse is designed to handle a maximum of 10 amps.
A faulty circuit breaker or an open relay will have the same effect as a blown fuse. Circuit breakers are often used to protect circuits that may experience brief periods of overloading such as an A/C compressor clutch.
One way to check a circuit breaker is with a test light. Attach wire side of the test light to a known good ground and touch the metal tip of the test light to each side of the circuit breaker contact. If the test light glows when you touch each contact, the circuit breaker is good. If only one side glows, the circuit breaker is bad and you should replace it.
The load point is the element that the circuit provides power to. It could be a light bulb, wiper motor, blower motor, etc. The load point can be checked with a voltmeter or a 12-volt test light. A voltmeter is the better choice because it will give you an exact voltage reading, although a test light will work fine for performing quick voltage checks.
If there is no voltage found at the load point, you should first check the fuse, fuse link or circuit breaker that protects the circuit, or the power relay that supplies voltage to the circuit.
If the problem is a blown fuse, replacing the fuse may restore power temporarily, but unless the underlying cause for the overload is found and corrected, your “fix” probably will not last. Whatever you do, do not substitute a fuse of greater capacity! A larger fuse may be able to handle a greater load but the wiring and the rest of the circuit cannot. A circuit designed for a 10 amp fuse is designed to handle a maximum of 10 amps.
A faulty circuit breaker or an open relay will have the same effect as a blown fuse. Circuit breakers are often used to protect circuits that may experience brief periods of overloading such as an A/C compressor clutch.
One way to check a circuit breaker is with a test light. Attach wire side of the test light to a known good ground and touch the metal tip of the test light to each side of the circuit breaker contact. If the test light glows when you touch each contact, the circuit breaker is good. If only one side glows, the circuit breaker is bad and you should replace it.
A fuse will blow before the desired amperage if the fuse is located in a part of the vehicle that retains additional heat, such as the engine compartment.
Heat lowers the fuse rating.
Heat lowers the fuse rating.
Do you know your fuses?
A fuse is a device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit. The melting of the element occurs when the electrical current exceeds a specified level for a specified time. This action is irreversible and the fuse must be replaced after the circuit malfunction is repaired.
A fuse is a temperature-sensitive device. This means that changes in ambient temperature, external heat sources (such as other fuses) and external heat sinks (such as conducting wires) affect the fuse.
Fuse ratings are based on an ambient temperature of 77°F. Higher ambient temperatures will lower the effective fuse rating, and the fuse will open quicker for a given overload current.
Autofuse (ATO) & Minifuse
Blow times at % of rated current – at 77°F | |||||||
Amp Rating | 100% | 135% | 200% | 600% | |||
Color | Min (hours) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Max (sec) | |
5A | Tan | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
7.5A | Brown | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
10A | Red | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
15A | Blue | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
20A | Yellow | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
25A | White | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
30A | Green | 100 | .75 | 600 | .15 | 5 | .1 |
Maxifuse
Unlike previous high current circuit protection devices (e.g.: fusible links) the Maxifuse was designed to protect cables from both direct short circuits and resistive short circuits, without damaging the device itself. This is due to the higher temperature insulating materials used to house the Maxifuse element and the element design. Compared to Minifuse, Maxifuse opening times are longer.
Blow times at % of rated current – at 77°F | |||||||
Amp Rating | 100% | 135% | 200% | 600% | |||
Color | Min (hours) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Max (sec) | |
20A | Yellow | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 4 | 20 | 1 |
25A | Gray | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 4 | 20 | 1 |
30A | Green | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 6 | 20 | 1 |
40A | Amber | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 8 | 20 | 1 |
50A | Red | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 10 | 20 | 1 |
60A | Blue | 100 | 60 | 1800 | 15 | 20 | 1 |
Megafuse
The Megafuse is designed for high current protection of the battery/alternator system. It has a bolt-down design to facilitate easy installation and replacement. Similar to the Maxifuse, the Megafuse is engineered with time delayed characteristics to allow for high in-rush currents.
Amp Rating | Blow times at % of rated current – at 77°F | |||||
100% | 135% | 200% | 600% | |||
Min (hours) | Min (sec) | Min (sec) | Min (sec) | Max (sec) | Max (sec) | |
125A | 4 | 120 | 1800 | 1 | 15 | 1 |
175A | 4 | 120 | 1800 | 1 | 15 | 1 |
Fuses, fusible links, and circuit breakers protect an electrical circuit from damage caused by overload or short circuit. Fuses and fusible links operate once and then have to be replaced; a circuit breaker can be reset (either manually or automatically) to resume normal operation.
Fuel gauge troubleshooting begins with isolating the problem either to the gauge, sending unit, fuse or wiring. The most common gauge problems are either a bad ground at the tank, or a sender problem. As with any electrical troubleshooting, it is best to check the fuse and all wiring connections are clean, tight and free of corrosion.
The following process will require the ignition switch be in the “on” position for troubleshooting a fuel gauge issue. The first place to start is to check the ignition 12 volt power feed at the fuel gauge to see that it is powered up. If you DO NOT have 12 volts ignition on the fuel gauge, check the gauge fuse to see if it is good, and make sure the ignition switch is powering the ignition pink wire on the ignition blade of the switch. If you DO have 12 volts to the fuel gauge, the next step is to remove the fuel sending unit wire, and, with the ignition key “on”, ground the sender wire to a good chassis ground. The fuel gauge should immediately go to empty. Removing the sending unit wire from the chassis ground the fuel gauge should go directly to “full”. If the fuel gauge responds correctly, the fuel gauge and sending unit wire at this point are reacting correctly. Next, check the fuel tank float assembly to see if the grounding terminal on the float assembly has a good grounding point to the chassis. If the ground wire looks good, the problem most likely resides in the fuel tank float assembly, and may need to be replaced.
The following process will require the ignition switch be in the “on” position for troubleshooting a fuel gauge issue. The first place to start is to check the ignition 12 volt power feed at the fuel gauge to see that it is powered up. If you DO NOT have 12 volts ignition on the fuel gauge, check the gauge fuse to see if it is good, and make sure the ignition switch is powering the ignition pink wire on the ignition blade of the switch. If you DO have 12 volts to the fuel gauge, the next step is to remove the fuel sending unit wire, and, with the ignition key “on”, ground the sender wire to a good chassis ground. The fuel gauge should immediately go to empty. Removing the sending unit wire from the chassis ground the fuel gauge should go directly to “full”. If the fuel gauge responds correctly, the fuel gauge and sending unit wire at this point are reacting correctly. Next, check the fuel tank float assembly to see if the grounding terminal on the float assembly has a good grounding point to the chassis. If the ground wire looks good, the problem most likely resides in the fuel tank float assembly, and may need to be replaced.
The main cause of most automotive electrical problems is caused by a bad ground situation. Always keep in mind that a circuit has to be complete. This means that the current has to be able to travel from a good ground to the positive side of the energy source in order to operate. Do not rely on just the negative battery cable as the only ground; always incorporate a separate ground wire or cable from the engine block to the chassis.
The secret of good soldering is to use the right amount of heat. Too little heat will result in a cold solder joint; too much heat can seriously damage a component. The key factors in quality soldering are time and temperature. Generally, rapid heating is desired. If heat is applied too long, the flux may be consumed and surface oxidation can become a problem.
All soldering should be performed with a soldering iron rated at approximately 45 watts. The tip should be kept clean by brushing it frequently on a moist sponge. You may use an iron that plugs directly into a wall outlet, or for better temperature control, use a soldering station. Soldering stations usually have a variable temperature control, which lets you set the right amount of heat to be used.
For good heat conduction between the soldering iron and the joint, a small amount of solder should be applied to the tinned portion of the soldering-iron tip, and this surface should be applied to the backside of the terminal. The solder wire is then applied to the front side of the terminal, but is not brought into contact with the iron (See figure 1). When the solder melts into the terminal and wire, the joint is properly soldered. The reason the iron is placed on the backside and the solder wire to the front side is that solder travels toward heat. This procedure avoids a cold solder joint that could cause trouble in the future. It is a good idea for the inexperienced hobbyist to practice soldering with some scrap terminals and wire.
Good practice tips:
1. Apply enough solder so that every strand of wire is surrounded by solder.
2. Do not over tin the wire or solder may flow up under the wire’s insulation causing it become rigid, or you will end up with globs of solder on the terminal that will have to be removed.
All soldering should be performed with a soldering iron rated at approximately 45 watts. The tip should be kept clean by brushing it frequently on a moist sponge. You may use an iron that plugs directly into a wall outlet, or for better temperature control, use a soldering station. Soldering stations usually have a variable temperature control, which lets you set the right amount of heat to be used.
For good heat conduction between the soldering iron and the joint, a small amount of solder should be applied to the tinned portion of the soldering-iron tip, and this surface should be applied to the backside of the terminal. The solder wire is then applied to the front side of the terminal, but is not brought into contact with the iron (See figure 1). When the solder melts into the terminal and wire, the joint is properly soldered. The reason the iron is placed on the backside and the solder wire to the front side is that solder travels toward heat. This procedure avoids a cold solder joint that could cause trouble in the future. It is a good idea for the inexperienced hobbyist to practice soldering with some scrap terminals and wire.
Good practice tips:
1. Apply enough solder so that every strand of wire is surrounded by solder.
2. Do not over tin the wire or solder may flow up under the wire’s insulation causing it become rigid, or you will end up with globs of solder on the terminal that will have to be removed.
The low fuel indicator is a small round plastic can containing four wires that is in the gauge package. It is not crucial to the operation of the gauges. In fact, many gauge clusters removed them when they were not functional. The module plugs into the fuel gauge for power, signal, and ground. There is a fourth yellow wire that comes from the module that goes to the dash through the console harness and the dash harness console extension to activate a light in the instrument cluster. However, here is where the problem arises.
The 1967 low fuel module operates by sending a 12 volt power signal on the yellow wire to a single contact bulb mounted in the dash cluster underneath the circuit board. The bulb has grounding tangs that ground the bulb through the instrument cluster body.
The 1968 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to one of the 12 pin instrument cluster connector contacts. This subsequently lights a low fuel indicator bulb through the circuit board connection on the back of the cluster. This circuit board is different for a warning light versus a factory console gauge car.
The 1969 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to a bulb located in the instrument cluster light pods at the bottom of the dash.
The low fuel modules are not interchangeable.
The 1967 low fuel module operates by sending a 12 volt power signal on the yellow wire to a single contact bulb mounted in the dash cluster underneath the circuit board. The bulb has grounding tangs that ground the bulb through the instrument cluster body.
The 1968 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to one of the 12 pin instrument cluster connector contacts. This subsequently lights a low fuel indicator bulb through the circuit board connection on the back of the cluster. This circuit board is different for a warning light versus a factory console gauge car.
The 1969 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to a bulb located in the instrument cluster light pods at the bottom of the dash.
The low fuel modules are not interchangeable.
Delco Remy (System Integrated) SI alternator were used on GM vehicles between 1969-1988. They were primarily used on vehicles between 1975-1985. Two of the most commonly used models were the 10SI and 12SI alternators.
Two key identification points of the SI alternator is the external fan with V belt pulley and the 2 charge indicator light terminals (male blades) that appear on the backside of the alternator.
The pictures below show the front and rear of a SI alternator and a picture of the connector that plugs into the alternator.
Delco Remy CS130 / CS144 alternatorswere used on GM vehicles between 1986-1999. The CS144 is visibly a larger alternator than the CS130 and CS130D as shown below.
Two key identification points of the CS130 / CS144 alternator is the external fan with a serpentine belt pulley and the 4 charge indicator light terminals (1 large and 3 smaller) that appear on the backside of the alternator.
The pictures below show a CS130 alternator vs. a CS144 alternator and the connector that plugs into the alternator.
Delco Remy CS130D alternators were used on GM vehicles between 1994-Beyond.
Two key identification points of the CS130D alternator is the internal fan and vented case with a serpentine belt pulley and the 4 charge indicator light terminals (all the same size) that appear on the backside of the alternator.
The pictures below show a CS130D alternator and the connector that plugs into the alternator.
Two key identification points of the SI alternator is the external fan with V belt pulley and the 2 charge indicator light terminals (male blades) that appear on the backside of the alternator.
The pictures below show the front and rear of a SI alternator and a picture of the connector that plugs into the alternator.
Delco Remy CS130 / CS144 alternatorswere used on GM vehicles between 1986-1999. The CS144 is visibly a larger alternator than the CS130 and CS130D as shown below.
Two key identification points of the CS130 / CS144 alternator is the external fan with a serpentine belt pulley and the 4 charge indicator light terminals (1 large and 3 smaller) that appear on the backside of the alternator.
The pictures below show a CS130 alternator vs. a CS144 alternator and the connector that plugs into the alternator.
Delco Remy CS130D alternators were used on GM vehicles between 1994-Beyond.
Two key identification points of the CS130D alternator is the internal fan and vented case with a serpentine belt pulley and the 4 charge indicator light terminals (all the same size) that appear on the backside of the alternator.
The pictures below show a CS130D alternator and the connector that plugs into the alternator.
Are you running a 1-wire alternator? My guess is that you probably are. The alternator needs to pick up to about 14-15 volts to compensate for the extreme voltage draw that you are experiencing. Your A/C system and high speed blower draw quite a bit of amperage, as do electric fans. If you have dual fans that are activated whenever the A/C is turned on, it is conceivable that you have as much of a draw as 70+ amps just from those appliances alone. This does not even include any other tax on the system. The problem with a 1-wire alternator is that it does not sense that high draw, because there is no sense wire in the system at the alternator. All it knows is that it’s putting out 13+ volts so all should be good. An alternator is capable of charging 21+ volts if unregulated. The sense wire allows the alternator to see what the draw or capacity of the charging circuit is. If a system has a strong draw, the alternator will pick up a bit to compensate for that draw. In a 1-wire system, they are self-exiting and as such have no exciter or sensing circuit.
On another note, it doesn’t really matter how good your system is, when you have that much of a current draw, you are going to have a drop in voltage. I own a 98 suburban with a 454 Vortec, and all HD everything. When the air is on and the auxiliary electric fan kicks in, my voltage drops from 14.2 down to about 12.5-13. This is acceptable. I have never had any problem with the battery going dead or any long term charging issues.
On another note, it doesn’t really matter how good your system is, when you have that much of a current draw, you are going to have a drop in voltage. I own a 98 suburban with a 454 Vortec, and all HD everything. When the air is on and the auxiliary electric fan kicks in, my voltage drops from 14.2 down to about 12.5-13. This is acceptable. I have never had any problem with the battery going dead or any long term charging issues.
Unfortunately, this situation does come up from time to time with our 1967 Chevy Impala, Super Sport, Caprice, Bel air, and Biscayne owners. Believe it or not, there were actually a fair amount of early 1967 built cars that escaped the factory with mis-indexed original rear body harnesses. The assembly line workers at the various assembly plants would just swap the wires at the fusebox area to make everything operate properly. However, at American Autowire, we build all of our harnesses to the latest revision of the OEM engineering drawings, which were corrected very early on in the production process to alleviate this deficiency. Therefore, there will be a few of these anomaly cars out there that need the wires in that main connector switched to make the harness and vehicle operate properly.
If you run into this situation, contact our tech support staff at 1-800-482-9473. They may be able to help you do a field repair, or assist you in returning the products to us so that we may make the change for you here and send the updated harness back to you right away.
If you run into this situation, contact our tech support staff at 1-800-482-9473. They may be able to help you do a field repair, or assist you in returning the products to us so that we may make the change for you here and send the updated harness back to you right away.
Unfortunately, this is a question that we receive quite regularly. There are 3 different applications for these console gauge conversion wire harness kits. They are as follows: Column shift automatic TO floor shift automatic with gauges; floor shift automatic TO floor shift automatic with gauges; and any column or floor shifted manual, with or without a console TO floor shift manual with gauges. If you car DOES NOT fit one of these scenarios, you WILL NOT be able to use an adapter harness to operate your new gauge set. In an instance such as yours, where the configuration of the car has changed to include a different style of transmission (auto. vs. manual), the ONLY alternative is to contact us or your favorite dealer to purchase the CORRECT underdash and engine compartment wire harnesses for your new application as all three harnesses are affected by the addition of the tach and gauges.
Speaking of a tach, that also adds another wrinkle to this situation. ALL 67-9 Camaro console gauge equipped cars came mandatory with a factory tach up in the dash cluster that replaced the fuel gauge. If you are adding gauges, you MUST also add the factory dash tach in place of the fuel gauge.
The deciding factor in whether the kit will work in your car is what connector exists (or doesn’t exist) down at the heater deflector area on the transmission tunnel. The wire kits are designed to be plug and play with no cutting or splicing necessary. When we change a transmission, there are several factors that now become an issue such as back up lamps, neutral safety switch wiring, power feeds and how they get energized, etc.
We have recently updated all of the wiring directions for the various kits and they can now be found posted on our instructions website for your viewing pleasure. These all-new, full color instructions WILL work with older kits as nothing was changed from a manufacturing standpoint. If you just need clarification on some items on your kit, I strongly urge you visit this site and take in these exciting new instructions as they are much easier to follow since they are specific to each part numbered kit now.
Speaking of a tach, that also adds another wrinkle to this situation. ALL 67-9 Camaro console gauge equipped cars came mandatory with a factory tach up in the dash cluster that replaced the fuel gauge. If you are adding gauges, you MUST also add the factory dash tach in place of the fuel gauge.
The deciding factor in whether the kit will work in your car is what connector exists (or doesn’t exist) down at the heater deflector area on the transmission tunnel. The wire kits are designed to be plug and play with no cutting or splicing necessary. When we change a transmission, there are several factors that now become an issue such as back up lamps, neutral safety switch wiring, power feeds and how they get energized, etc.
We have recently updated all of the wiring directions for the various kits and they can now be found posted on our instructions website for your viewing pleasure. These all-new, full color instructions WILL work with older kits as nothing was changed from a manufacturing standpoint. If you just need clarification on some items on your kit, I strongly urge you visit this site and take in these exciting new instructions as they are much easier to follow since they are specific to each part numbered kit now.
More than likely, there is no problem with your switch. The red headlight feed wire only feeds the output to the dimmer. The orange wire in the switch is what feeds the dash, tail, and parking lamps. It sounds like you have no feed on that orange wire which means that you have a blown fuse in the fusebox more than likely. That orange wire is (battery fused) hot all the time as soon as the battery is connected. If your fuse blows as soon as the battery is connected, there is a short on the orange wire itself. If however, it doesn’t blow until you activate the H/L switch, one of your brown parking lamp or tail lamp wires is shorted directly to ground or possibly even in one of the lamp sockets or bulbs. Once you find your short, your switch should work fine
The wiring schematic included with your kit is not meant to be used for installation instruction. In fact, if you were to attempt to wire the entire vehicle using only your schematic it would be somewhat difficult. We have attached the schematic to give an overall understanding of how each circuit is connected.
It is best to start wiring based on the kit section (denoted by letter….each letter will correspond with a section of your kit) suggested in the “Start Here” page of your instructions. This will walk you through each part of your installation with much more detail than you will find in a schematic. Doing this will not only make the job of rewiring feel much more approachable, but can help prevent installation based issues.
It is best to start wiring based on the kit section (denoted by letter….each letter will correspond with a section of your kit) suggested in the “Start Here” page of your instructions. This will walk you through each part of your installation with much more detail than you will find in a schematic. Doing this will not only make the job of rewiring feel much more approachable, but can help prevent installation based issues.
LED (light emitting diode) lights are fast becoming the light source of choice in many applications. There are good reasons for this. LED lights consume about 10th the power of an incandescent light bulb making them much more efficient. LEDs also last much longer than incandescent light bulbs at approximately 100,000 hours.
In the vehicle, the LED is commonly used as an indicator for alerting you if a circuit is powered on, such as turn signals and high beams. They are also used as warning lights, such as low oil pressure and high water temperature.
In the vehicle, the LED is commonly used as an indicator for alerting you if a circuit is powered on, such as turn signals and high beams. They are also used as warning lights, such as low oil pressure and high water temperature.
Customers often ask why there is a need to change the horn relay when converting a 1958-62 Chevrolet Fullsize and Nova car from the stock generator to an internally regulated alternator. The reason is that on a car equipped with a generator, the “battery” terminal on the voltage regulator served as the main battery power distribution block. When that regulator is removed and the car is converted from a generator to an internally regulated alternator, we loose that distribution point. On the 63-75 cars, GM removed the “battery” terminal from the voltage regulator and relocated it to the horn relay, which then served as the main battery power distribution point. While there were about 5 different configurations of these newer style horn relays, they were all utilized as the main power distribution source to transfer 12 volts into the car. American Autowire uses the 1963-65 style horn relay (P/N 12339243) on our conversions.
Main power transfer was accomplished from 1958 through 1964 (through 1966 on the Novas) by incorporating a smaller gauge secondary battery lead along with the normal heavy gauge primary battery lead that connected to the positive post on the battery. While the primary heavy gauge feed went down to the starter solenoid, the secondary lead, which was generally between 60 and 80 inches long, would route from the positive terminal on the battery, up to and across the radiator core support, and then onto the “battery” terminal on the voltage regulator (or after 1963, onto the horn relay).
Often, the primary battery cable would need to be replaced after several years, due to age or just general wear and tear. When this occurred, most field repairs were done utilizing a positive cable that DID NOT include a secondary feed. This repair was typically performed by cutting the secondary feed from the original cable and tying it into the newly repaired/installed cable. Very often, this old secondary lead would be taped into the old original front lamp harness to make things “look cleaner”. This scenario eventually created another problem for both our customers and American Autowire. When the customer removes their old original and attempts to install a new forward lamp harness, they no longer have that much-needed secondary lead to their voltage regulator or horn relay. Because there is no longer a battery power feed transferring 12 volts from the battery to that power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay), nothing works.
American Autowire would like to inform our customers that they will either need to purchase a new battery cable which will include that secondary power feed, or they will need to run their own new wire, which will run from the battery to the power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay).
Main power transfer was accomplished from 1958 through 1964 (through 1966 on the Novas) by incorporating a smaller gauge secondary battery lead along with the normal heavy gauge primary battery lead that connected to the positive post on the battery. While the primary heavy gauge feed went down to the starter solenoid, the secondary lead, which was generally between 60 and 80 inches long, would route from the positive terminal on the battery, up to and across the radiator core support, and then onto the “battery” terminal on the voltage regulator (or after 1963, onto the horn relay).
Often, the primary battery cable would need to be replaced after several years, due to age or just general wear and tear. When this occurred, most field repairs were done utilizing a positive cable that DID NOT include a secondary feed. This repair was typically performed by cutting the secondary feed from the original cable and tying it into the newly repaired/installed cable. Very often, this old secondary lead would be taped into the old original front lamp harness to make things “look cleaner”. This scenario eventually created another problem for both our customers and American Autowire. When the customer removes their old original and attempts to install a new forward lamp harness, they no longer have that much-needed secondary lead to their voltage regulator or horn relay. Because there is no longer a battery power feed transferring 12 volts from the battery to that power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay), nothing works.
American Autowire would like to inform our customers that they will either need to purchase a new battery cable which will include that secondary power feed, or they will need to run their own new wire, which will run from the battery to the power distribution point (at the regulator or horn relay).
- Identify your project.
This is not an easy task because it really does depend on the car you are starting with. If your project is a typical street rod, then you have a far more complex task at hand. This almost always requires a complete rebuild and a conversion to a 12 volt electrical system. If you are starting with a running car, you may not need to replace all the harnesses in the car. However, this can all change with a complete restoration. The important point here is that there are many options to handle your project and there is not a “one size fits all” solution. - Plan your project.
The most important part of the project involves your “wish list” of electrical system accessories that you want in or on the car. Once you have determined those accessories, you can then determine how may circuits or how many amps you need to feed those accessories. - Research what is available.
You have identified your project and decided the extent of modifications and the mix of accessories you want. The next step is to find out what is available. There are basically two major categories of harness products. Those are original replacement and generic rewire products.
a. Original replacement harnesses, such as American Autowire’s Factory Fit® product line, are available for most factory cars from 1955 and up. This is by far the easiest way to re-wire, since the harnesses are plug in replacements made specifically for the vehicle in question. Some vehicle attributes must be defined in more detail because there were many factory options available for each model. These harnesses generally cost more, however, installation time is much shorter and requires less skill. The most common alterations for alternators and ignition systems are also available as complete plug in modifications. Minimal additional circuits are available for “wish list” items.
b. Generic rewire kits require more work on the part of the installer. However, there is a wide area of kits that range from vehicle-specific update kits (Classic Update Series) to totally generic and universal wiring kits (Power Plus, Builder, and Highway Series). This is the area that requires the most research on the part of the customer. The time spent really knowing the alternatives, the concept behind the kit, inclusions with the kit, and the reputation of the manufacturer is time well spent. - Determine your comfort level.
You will have to assess your level of expertise and your capability to install the wiring system based on your research. Aside from the daunting task of rewiring, you have to decide if the kit description satisfies your level of expertise. The level of documentation that exists, experiences of friends, magazine installation articles, and direct contact with the manufacturer’s customer service department will all help make this determination. - Select the wiring system best suited to your requirements and the car.
If your project is a totally custom street rod, a more generic kit such as the Highways Series, Builder series, or Power Plus series kit is in order. The decision here centers on the number of power circuits required and the type of kit design. A general rule concerning number of circuits is that if your wish list contains items that you think you may want to install later, it is wise to plan to purchase a kit with more circuit capability now. This will allow easier installation later as the power handling capability will already be in place. The second part of this decision centers on the selection of a modular or integrated fuse box kit.Modular kits are represented in our Highway series 15 and 22 kits. They are easier to install because none of the wires are pre-connected to the fuse panel and all power circuits are wired from the outside into the fuse panel, i.e., you place the fuse box and wire everything into it. Panel placement is not constrained and circuits not used are not connected. This prevents live circuits that will have to be capped off before the system goes live.Integrated fuse panel kits are represented by our Power Plus and Builder Series kits. These fuse panels are designed to mount under the dash. All connections are done from the fuse box out requiring termination of each wire at the final connection point. These systems are less flexible in the panel mounting location and do present more routing issues than a modular system.The Classic Update Series kits combine aspects of a generic kit, with those of a vehicle-specific kit. Classic Update kits provide as much plug and play capability as possible, while accommodating the increased circuitry and free routing requirements of a street rod kit design. These kits are designed around a specific group of vehicles. Original switches, heater controls, tail lights, parking lights, factory gauges, and dash design are incorporated into the design of these kits. If this kit exists for your vehicle, it will be the most complete option available to you, saving considerable time and effort in the rewire project.
Finally, if a truly plug and play system is required or the need exists to restore your vehicle to original specifications, the Factory Fit® line of harnesses will be your solution. Modification harnesses exist to address charging system and ignition system updates. While the cost of these harnesses is more than the generic kits, considerably less time is spent in installation.
UPDATED 12/02/2010
These new Voltmeter gauges are engineered as a direct replacement to install in place of the factory Ammeter gauge that was used in the original “saw tooth console gauge packages” installed in many 1968-1969 Camaros and 1968-1974 Novas. This gauge is a must when using American Autowire’s Classic Update or any other updated wiring harness kits will not support the use of an Ammeter.
To find out more about why voltmeters are preferred over ammeters, please read this article
A Word About Ammeters.
Check them out here:
1968-1968 Camaro voltmeter (510121) – $119.95.
1968-174 Nova voltmeter (510122) – $129.95
Please note that this post has been updated since the release of the video below. Both the Camaro and Nova voltmeter gauges are currently available.
These new Voltmeter gauges are engineered as a direct replacement to install in place of the factory Ammeter gauge that was used in the original “saw tooth console gauge packages” installed in many 1968-1969 Camaros and 1968-1974 Novas. This gauge is a must when using American Autowire’s Classic Update or any other updated wiring harness kits will not support the use of an Ammeter.
To find out more about why voltmeters are preferred over ammeters, please read this article
A Word About Ammeters.
Check them out here:
1968-1968 Camaro voltmeter (510121) – $119.95.
1968-174 Nova voltmeter (510122) – $129.95
Please note that this post has been updated since the release of the video below. Both the Camaro and Nova voltmeter gauges are currently available.
Are you tired of re-setting your radio station settings and your digital clock when you turn your master disconnect to the “OFF” position, for that early dinner time stop. Try our “LIFE LINE” Memory Retention Module. Just a few minutes for installation and you will have a constant 12 volt memory power for your radio, clock and ECM computer for those short stops when you turn your master disconnect “OFF”. Our “LIFE LINE” retails for $24.00.
See Instructions Here
See Instructions Here
Below is a guide for properly stripping wires and crimping terminals. Please see “Crimping Tools” for additional information about the tools required for crimping terminals.
If you plan on putting OEM-style (Factory Fit) wiring back into your car, do yourself a favor and take notes and lots of pictures when removing the existing wiring. Since the Factory Fit line of wiring harnesses is a reproduction of the original wiring, your new harnesses will be installed in exactly the same place that you remove the old wiring from. While the Assembly Manual is a good point of reference, your own notes and photos will make the “plug ‘n play” installation that much easier!
The starter is the single largest power user and most critical to your car’s operation. The starter is simply a DC motor that turns the engine through the flywheel. Voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the battery and is controlled by a relay and/or solenoid operated from the key switch inside your car.
Starters can be of varying types and designs – gear-reduction types for higher torque, permanent-magnet types to reduce size and old-fashioned heavy starters. But whatever the type, they all function in the same basic way.
A slow cranking engine could be a sign of an old or bad starter. But most likely, it’s due to low battery voltage, poor electrical connections at the battery, or a failed relay or fusible link.
Starting a car with the major components turned off (like the AC compressor, blower motor and high-powered stereos) will greatly ease the load on the starter. In fact, most new cars have “lock out” relays that will not allow the AC compressor and alternator to turn on until after the vehicle has been started. But turning these power-hogs off before shutting off your car is always a good precaution.
Although the starter drive, or “Bendix” as it was commonly referred to, can be replaced separately from the starter assembly, it’s rarely recommended anymore. Failure of any part is due to age, usage, and/or heat stress; factors to which the entire starter has also been subjected. That is to say, all the other parts of the starter system are just as old and stressed. Replace the starter as a unit and have the electrical system checked at the same time to prevent further problems.
Starters can be of varying types and designs – gear-reduction types for higher torque, permanent-magnet types to reduce size and old-fashioned heavy starters. But whatever the type, they all function in the same basic way.
A slow cranking engine could be a sign of an old or bad starter. But most likely, it’s due to low battery voltage, poor electrical connections at the battery, or a failed relay or fusible link.
Starting a car with the major components turned off (like the AC compressor, blower motor and high-powered stereos) will greatly ease the load on the starter. In fact, most new cars have “lock out” relays that will not allow the AC compressor and alternator to turn on until after the vehicle has been started. But turning these power-hogs off before shutting off your car is always a good precaution.
Although the starter drive, or “Bendix” as it was commonly referred to, can be replaced separately from the starter assembly, it’s rarely recommended anymore. Failure of any part is due to age, usage, and/or heat stress; factors to which the entire starter has also been subjected. That is to say, all the other parts of the starter system are just as old and stressed. Replace the starter as a unit and have the electrical system checked at the same time to prevent further problems.
Electron: The basic unit of electricity. Think of electrons as “bullets”, moving through the wire. It is the movement of electrons which runs the devices.
Voltage: This is the force (or pressure) of electricity in the wire. Imagine your garden hose as the wire; the water pressure would be equivalent to the voltage. Older cars run on six volt systems and newer (most 1955 and later) utilize twelve volt systems.
Current: This is the movement of electrons in the wire, also known as Amps. The greater the movement through the wire, the greater the number of amps. Think of this as the speed of the water coming out of the garden hose. When you tighten the nozzle the water shoots out further and faster.
Resistance: This is a restriction to the movement of electrons through the wire or circuit. The unit of resistance is called the OHM and you can think of it as a kink in that garden hose. The higher the resistance, the more current must flow to overcome it. The more current flow through an area of high resistance, the hotter the wire will become, ultimately failing. Corrosion, loose terminals and too-small diameter wires are three very common causes of resistance.
Voltage: This is the force (or pressure) of electricity in the wire. Imagine your garden hose as the wire; the water pressure would be equivalent to the voltage. Older cars run on six volt systems and newer (most 1955 and later) utilize twelve volt systems.
Current: This is the movement of electrons in the wire, also known as Amps. The greater the movement through the wire, the greater the number of amps. Think of this as the speed of the water coming out of the garden hose. When you tighten the nozzle the water shoots out further and faster.
Resistance: This is a restriction to the movement of electrons through the wire or circuit. The unit of resistance is called the OHM and you can think of it as a kink in that garden hose. The higher the resistance, the more current must flow to overcome it. The more current flow through an area of high resistance, the hotter the wire will become, ultimately failing. Corrosion, loose terminals and too-small diameter wires are three very common causes of resistance.
A relay is nothing more than a remote switch that uses an electromagnet to close a set of contact points. When the relay magnet is supplied with voltage, the points close and battery voltage is routed through the main circuit. Relays are often used in circuits to reduce the amount of wiring that is required, and to reduce the current that flows through the primary control switch. A relatively low amperage switch, timer or sensor can be used to turn a much higher capacity relay on and off.
THE WORKINGS OF AN ALTERNATOR
ALTERNATOR WARNING LIGHT
What does the little red light that says ALT, GEN or sometimes CHARGING mean when it comes on? Without being scientific, it means that either the alternator output voltage is lower than the battery voltage, or the battery voltage is lower than the alternator output voltage. If the light gets dimmer as you rev the engine up, then you most likely have a problem with the alternator. If the light gets brighter, then the battery is most likely the problem.
ALTERNATOR ROTOR
The rotor consists of a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core. Current through the wire coil – called “field” current – produces a magnetic field around the core. The strength of the field current determines the strength of the magnetic field. The field current is D/C, or direct current. In other words, the current flows in one direction only, and is supplied to the wire coil by a set of brushes and slip rings. The magnetic field produced has, as any magnet, a north and a south pole. The rotor is driven by the alternator pulley.
STATOR
Surrounding the rotor is another set of coils, three in total, called the stator. The stator is fixed to the shell of the alternator, and does not turn. As the rotor turns within the stator windings, the magnetic field of the rotor sweeps through the stator windings, producing an electrical current in the windings. Because of the rotation of the rotor, an alternating current is produced.
OUTPUT DIODES
A/C voltage is of little use in a D/C system, such as used in an automobile, so it has to be converted to D/C before it can be used. This conversion to D/C takes place in the “output diodes” and in the “diode trio.” Diodes have the property of allowing current to flow in only one direction, while blocking current flow in the other direction. The output diodes consist of six diodes, one pair for each winding. One of the pair is for the negative half cycle, and the other for the positive half cycle.
DIODE TRIO
The diode trio consists of three diodes, one per phase, which provides field current to the alternator regulator. This output will be discussed in more detail later in the “field current supply” section.
FIELD CURRENT SUPPLY
Field current supply is provided from two different sources – from the alternator itself, via the diode trio, and from the battery, via the alternator warning lamp. When you turn the key to “on”, the engine is not running and the alternator is not spinning. At this time, the voltage/current source for the field current is from the battery, through the ignition switch, and through the warning lamp. After the engine is started, and the alternator is up to speed, the output of the diode trio is fed back to the regulator, and serves as a source of current for the field current. At this time, the alternator is self sustaining, and the battery is no longer needed to power the automobiles electrical system.
REGULATOR
The regulator has two inputs and one output. The inputs are the field current supply and the control voltage input, and the output is the field current to the rotor. The regulator uses the control voltage input to control the amount of field current input that is allow to pass through to the rotor winding. If the battery voltage drops, the regulator senses this, by means of the connection to the battery, and allows more of the field current input to reach the rotor, which increases the magnetic field strength, which ultimately increases the voltage output of the alternator. Conversely, if the battery voltage goes up, less field current goes through the rotor windings, and the output voltage is reduced.
WARNING LIGHT
The alternator warning lamp travels a path to ground from the field current supply input to the voltage regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil in the alternator, and then to ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output its voltage will equal the battery voltage. At this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out. If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery voltage on the other, the lamp will also light. As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases, it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the lamp, and the brighter it gets.
ALTERNATOR WARNING LIGHT
What does the little red light that says ALT, GEN or sometimes CHARGING mean when it comes on? Without being scientific, it means that either the alternator output voltage is lower than the battery voltage, or the battery voltage is lower than the alternator output voltage. If the light gets dimmer as you rev the engine up, then you most likely have a problem with the alternator. If the light gets brighter, then the battery is most likely the problem.
ALTERNATOR ROTOR
The rotor consists of a coil of wire wrapped around an iron core. Current through the wire coil – called “field” current – produces a magnetic field around the core. The strength of the field current determines the strength of the magnetic field. The field current is D/C, or direct current. In other words, the current flows in one direction only, and is supplied to the wire coil by a set of brushes and slip rings. The magnetic field produced has, as any magnet, a north and a south pole. The rotor is driven by the alternator pulley.
STATOR
Surrounding the rotor is another set of coils, three in total, called the stator. The stator is fixed to the shell of the alternator, and does not turn. As the rotor turns within the stator windings, the magnetic field of the rotor sweeps through the stator windings, producing an electrical current in the windings. Because of the rotation of the rotor, an alternating current is produced.
OUTPUT DIODES
A/C voltage is of little use in a D/C system, such as used in an automobile, so it has to be converted to D/C before it can be used. This conversion to D/C takes place in the “output diodes” and in the “diode trio.” Diodes have the property of allowing current to flow in only one direction, while blocking current flow in the other direction. The output diodes consist of six diodes, one pair for each winding. One of the pair is for the negative half cycle, and the other for the positive half cycle.
DIODE TRIO
The diode trio consists of three diodes, one per phase, which provides field current to the alternator regulator. This output will be discussed in more detail later in the “field current supply” section.
FIELD CURRENT SUPPLY
Field current supply is provided from two different sources – from the alternator itself, via the diode trio, and from the battery, via the alternator warning lamp. When you turn the key to “on”, the engine is not running and the alternator is not spinning. At this time, the voltage/current source for the field current is from the battery, through the ignition switch, and through the warning lamp. After the engine is started, and the alternator is up to speed, the output of the diode trio is fed back to the regulator, and serves as a source of current for the field current. At this time, the alternator is self sustaining, and the battery is no longer needed to power the automobiles electrical system.
REGULATOR
The regulator has two inputs and one output. The inputs are the field current supply and the control voltage input, and the output is the field current to the rotor. The regulator uses the control voltage input to control the amount of field current input that is allow to pass through to the rotor winding. If the battery voltage drops, the regulator senses this, by means of the connection to the battery, and allows more of the field current input to reach the rotor, which increases the magnetic field strength, which ultimately increases the voltage output of the alternator. Conversely, if the battery voltage goes up, less field current goes through the rotor windings, and the output voltage is reduced.
WARNING LIGHT
The alternator warning lamp travels a path to ground from the field current supply input to the voltage regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil in the alternator, and then to ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output its voltage will equal the battery voltage. At this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out. If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery voltage on the other, the lamp will also light. As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases, it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the lamp, and the brighter it gets.
From our Tech Tips series of videos…in this installment, Michael Manning provides installation tips for the headlight switch provided in many of our Classic Update kits. Click below to watch the video:
Tips for headlight switch installation
Tips for headlight switch installation
From our Tech Tips series of videos…in this installment, Michael Manning provides installation tips for the ignition switch provided in our Classic Update kits for the 64-69 Mustang, 66-77 Bronco, and the 61-66 Ford Truck. Click below to watch the video:
Ignition Switch: Mustang, Bronco, Truck
Ignition Switch: Mustang, Bronco, Truck
From our Tech Tips series of videos…in this installment, Michael Manning provides installation tips for the ignition switch provided in our Classic Update kit for the 55-56 Chevy Passenger/Wagon/Nomad. Click below to watch the video:
Ignition Switch: 55-56 Chevy
Ignition Switch: 55-56 Chevy
When running wire through a metal hole, it is recommended to use an insulator between the metal and the wire jacket. If the insulator is not used over time it may chafe through and short. One type of insulator is a grommet.
It is not recommended to route your wiring near heat sources like exhaust pipes or turning hardware like fans or drive shafts.
It is best to harness any of your wiring with wire ties or tape to be sure they are secure and not easily caught on something.
It is not recommended to route your wiring near heat sources like exhaust pipes or turning hardware like fans or drive shafts.
It is best to harness any of your wiring with wire ties or tape to be sure they are secure and not easily caught on something.
Problem: When my high beams are on, my indicator is not on, but when my low beams are on, my indicator glows slightly. Also my turn signal indicators glow or are on all the time whenever my lights are on.
This is a classic feedback ground situation. What’s more than likely happening is that your dash cluster is not properly grounded, or is not grounded at all. This can happen when a car is freshly restored or refinished, especially when 2-stage paint, or powder coating has been used. The catalyst that is mixed with the paint to help it cure is a polymer and it and basically turns it into plastic. Plastic is NOT conductive to a good ground, neither is the finish created by powder coating. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance and needs a 12-volt feed and ground to operate any appliance or function. If it does not have a good ground, it will ultimately search for one and that is what it is doing by grabbing the turn signal and high beam feed wires in the cluster. It may be actually finding a ground all the way out at the parking lamps or headlights.
Solution: You must be certain to have an excellent chassis ground on your gauge cluster as there are many things going on there (gauges, lamps, and indicator lights). A great thing to consider is a universal grounding kit as it runs all of your grounds back to one good know chassis ground. This is especially true if you are building a fiberglass car.
This is a classic feedback ground situation. What’s more than likely happening is that your dash cluster is not properly grounded, or is not grounded at all. This can happen when a car is freshly restored or refinished, especially when 2-stage paint, or powder coating has been used. The catalyst that is mixed with the paint to help it cure is a polymer and it and basically turns it into plastic. Plastic is NOT conductive to a good ground, neither is the finish created by powder coating. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance and needs a 12-volt feed and ground to operate any appliance or function. If it does not have a good ground, it will ultimately search for one and that is what it is doing by grabbing the turn signal and high beam feed wires in the cluster. It may be actually finding a ground all the way out at the parking lamps or headlights.
Solution: You must be certain to have an excellent chassis ground on your gauge cluster as there are many things going on there (gauges, lamps, and indicator lights). A great thing to consider is a universal grounding kit as it runs all of your grounds back to one good know chassis ground. This is especially true if you are building a fiberglass car.
There are two main categories of automotive wire – PVC and Cross-Linked. The biggest difference between the two categories is temperature range, as shown below.
PVC is created by heating PVC and then extruding it through a die on the stranding. This insulation can be melted with a heat source, changing the form.
The three main types of PVC automotive wire are:
1. GPT – used for general circuit wiring and rated to 80 °C
2. TWP – lead-free, thin wall automotive wire rated to 105 °C
3. HDT – heavy wall automotive wiring rated to 80 °C
Cross-linked insulation is created by extruding polyethylene through a tube, under heat and pressure, in order to ‘cross-link’ or change the molecules of the insulation to another state. Cross-linked automotive wire can withstand much higher temperatures than PVC automotive wire.
The three most common types of cross-linked automotive wire are:
1. GXL – thin wall, most common type, works with most standard automotive connectors, rated to 125 °C
2. SXL – standard wall, rated to 125 °C
3. TXL – extra thin wall, best for applications that require minimal size and weight, rated to 125 °C
PVC is created by heating PVC and then extruding it through a die on the stranding. This insulation can be melted with a heat source, changing the form.
The three main types of PVC automotive wire are:
1. GPT – used for general circuit wiring and rated to 80 °C
2. TWP – lead-free, thin wall automotive wire rated to 105 °C
3. HDT – heavy wall automotive wiring rated to 80 °C
Cross-linked insulation is created by extruding polyethylene through a tube, under heat and pressure, in order to ‘cross-link’ or change the molecules of the insulation to another state. Cross-linked automotive wire can withstand much higher temperatures than PVC automotive wire.
The three most common types of cross-linked automotive wire are:
1. GXL – thin wall, most common type, works with most standard automotive connectors, rated to 125 °C
"American Autowire uses GXL wire in all kits because of the greater temperature safety range. Our GXL wire is also labeled every 2″-3″ so can can find the connection you are looking for anywhere along the harness."
2. SXL – standard wall, rated to 125 °C
3. TXL – extra thin wall, best for applications that require minimal size and weight, rated to 125 °C
Every electrical component requires a certain amount of voltage to operate. A light bulb will glow dim as the voltage drops. A starter motor may turn the engine slowly if the battery voltage is too low, or it may not crank at all. That is because some components have a voltage limit, below which the component will not operate at all. Minimum threshold voltage is especially critical for some components such as solenoids (which need a certain amount of voltage to overcome spring tension), horns, relays, timers, buzzers, fuel injectors (which are also solenoids) and most electronics such as ignition module, computer and radio.
Check the battery for proper voltage. The battery should be at least 75 percent charged and read 12.4 volts or higher (12.6 volts is fully charged). If the battery is low, it should be recharged and tested. The charging system should also be checked, and have a reading between 13.6 to 14.6 volts. If the battery is OK, your voltmeter should read within 1 volt of battery voltage at the circuit load point in any given circuit.
Excessive resistance in the wiring usually causes low circuit voltage. Usually, this means a loose or corroded connector, a faulty switch, or relay or poor ground. To locate the point of high resistance, use a voltmeter to do a “voltage drop test” at various points throughout the circuit. If the voltmeter shows a drop of more than a 0.4 volts across any connector, switch or ground contact, there is a problem. Ideally, the voltage drop should be no more than 0.1 volts.
If low voltage is found in multiple circuits, do a voltage drop test across the battery terminals and engine/body ground straps. Loose or corroded battery cables and ground straps are a common cause of voltage-related problems. Clean and tighten the battery cables and/or ground straps, as needed.
Check the battery for proper voltage. The battery should be at least 75 percent charged and read 12.4 volts or higher (12.6 volts is fully charged). If the battery is low, it should be recharged and tested. The charging system should also be checked, and have a reading between 13.6 to 14.6 volts. If the battery is OK, your voltmeter should read within 1 volt of battery voltage at the circuit load point in any given circuit.
Excessive resistance in the wiring usually causes low circuit voltage. Usually, this means a loose or corroded connector, a faulty switch, or relay or poor ground. To locate the point of high resistance, use a voltmeter to do a “voltage drop test” at various points throughout the circuit. If the voltmeter shows a drop of more than a 0.4 volts across any connector, switch or ground contact, there is a problem. Ideally, the voltage drop should be no more than 0.1 volts.
If low voltage is found in multiple circuits, do a voltage drop test across the battery terminals and engine/body ground straps. Loose or corroded battery cables and ground straps are a common cause of voltage-related problems. Clean and tighten the battery cables and/or ground straps, as needed.
The fuel pump location on the Highway 22 panel is a “battery load” for a relay. This is shown on the instructions for the panel, sheet #500692. It is always best to run a fuel pump through a relay assembly as that is a constant load. While we may only be talking about a 7 to 10 amp load, it is always operating whenever the vehicle is running. By using a relay, you let the relay carry the load off of a direct battery connection (#8 on your panel), and you use an ignition trigger to activate that relay. The coil for that relay only draws about 2 to 3 amps. By setting the vehicle up this way, you have traded a 7 to 10 amp constant draw for a 2 to 3 amp constant draw which reduces the load on your ignition switch by about 5 to 7 amps. That translates into better performance from your system by allowing that extra amperage to be used elsewhere in the vehicle.
You don’t have to solder this connection as the mechanical crimp is so good. However, the crimp tool does not produce the crimp that a factory crimp machine would yield. Therefore, because this is such a critical connection, we recommend that, in this case, the crimp be followed up by soldering.
Automotive lighting is a lot like the light inside your refrigerator. You don’t really think about it until things aren’t working.
That’s why our Factory Fit and Classic Update kits include original-replacement lamp sockets. It’s one of the little things that make us unique in the industry.
As an added bonus, this means your existing bulbs (or a correct original-replacement bulb) will work with the sockets we supply with our harnesses.
Not sure what those bulbs were? Sylvania has a very handy bulb replacement guide for both vintage and late model vehicles. If you’re using one of our harnesses, you can be confident the new lamps will plug right in!
Yes. Unplug the beige connector (GM SI series alternator) containing the brown exciter wire and the red sensor wire from the alternator and tape it back against the harness. The heavy red power wire is all that is required for a single wire alternator. As one wire alternators are self exciting, they typically have the exciter plug cavity blocked off to prevent the possibility of plugging in an exciter wire connector.
Problem:
Our tech and sales team received reports stating 1967-1968 Mustangs with 2 speed wipers without washers would fail to return to the park position when the wiper switch was turned off.
Solution:
We assembled all of the 1968 Mustang parts, (wiper switch, motor and washer coordinator) tested them together, and were able to verify the concern. We concluded that the black/yellow wire (circuit W12) and the black wire (circuit W13) at the washer coordinator needed to be connected to bring full functionality to the system.
With these two wires connected, and the remaining two washer coordinator wires (red/blue and white) not connected, you have low speed, high speed and park. This means the dynamic brake function (what is responsible for electronically “locking” the motor in the park position) will function correctly.
Here are the assumptions for this resolution to work:
1. You have a 1967-68 Mustang.
2. You have our Classic Update kit.
3. You have a 2-speed wiper system.
4. You’ve connected our washer wiring to the wiper switch motor.
5. You realize that you won't have a washer function.
6. You don't connect to a washer coordinator.
7. You connect our wires W12 (black/yellow) and W13 (black) together.
8. Wires W7A (white/red) and W2A (red/blue) don't get connected to anything.
Our tech and sales team received reports stating 1967-1968 Mustangs with 2 speed wipers without washers would fail to return to the park position when the wiper switch was turned off.
Solution:
We assembled all of the 1968 Mustang parts, (wiper switch, motor and washer coordinator) tested them together, and were able to verify the concern. We concluded that the black/yellow wire (circuit W12) and the black wire (circuit W13) at the washer coordinator needed to be connected to bring full functionality to the system.
With these two wires connected, and the remaining two washer coordinator wires (red/blue and white) not connected, you have low speed, high speed and park. This means the dynamic brake function (what is responsible for electronically “locking” the motor in the park position) will function correctly.
Here are the assumptions for this resolution to work:
1. You have a 1967-68 Mustang.
2. You have our Classic Update kit.
3. You have a 2-speed wiper system.
4. You’ve connected our washer wiring to the wiper switch motor.
5. You realize that you won't have a washer function.
6. You don't connect to a washer coordinator.
7. You connect our wires W12 (black/yellow) and W13 (black) together.
8. Wires W7A (white/red) and W2A (red/blue) don't get connected to anything.
Q: When I put my key into the ignition switch of my 1968 Camaro with the door open, the horn starts to honk. When I close the door, turn the ignition to on, or to accessory position, the horn stops honking. However, the horn does not work when I press the horn button. My original system has the warning function for a key in the ignition, but this was just a buzz and had nothing to do with the horn. All systems were working properly prior to replacing the harnesses!
I have re-checked all the connections (disconnected them then re-connected them), but the problem still exists. All components are connected, other than the instrument panel. I don’t believe this would have any bearing on this problem, or does it? What is happening here?
A: Change the black and pink with black stripe wires out on the horn relay. It sounds like they are plugged in incorrectly.
If connections were plugged on backwards, with the key in the ignition and the door open, you would get a ground, thus applying the horn the entire time the key was in the ignition and the door was open until the ignition switch was turned to the “on” position.
Unfortunately, aftermarket relays do not have some of the features of OEM relays that make this mix-up less likely. A factory original GM relay cannot be plugged in incorrectly unless the wrong connectors are on the wrong wires. The pink with black stripe wire should have the connector with the notch cut out on the underside of it, whereas the the connector on the black wire should be solid. On a factory Delco Remy relay, the blade that the pink wire installs onto has an “upset” in the blade allowing only for the connector with the notch cut out being able to be installed onto it.
I have re-checked all the connections (disconnected them then re-connected them), but the problem still exists. All components are connected, other than the instrument panel. I don’t believe this would have any bearing on this problem, or does it? What is happening here?
A: Change the black and pink with black stripe wires out on the horn relay. It sounds like they are plugged in incorrectly.
If connections were plugged on backwards, with the key in the ignition and the door open, you would get a ground, thus applying the horn the entire time the key was in the ignition and the door was open until the ignition switch was turned to the “on” position.
Unfortunately, aftermarket relays do not have some of the features of OEM relays that make this mix-up less likely. A factory original GM relay cannot be plugged in incorrectly unless the wrong connectors are on the wrong wires. The pink with black stripe wire should have the connector with the notch cut out on the underside of it, whereas the the connector on the black wire should be solid. On a factory Delco Remy relay, the blade that the pink wire installs onto has an “upset” in the blade allowing only for the connector with the notch cut out being able to be installed onto it.
In 1969 and 1970, Pontiac used 2 unique ignition switches, one for tilt and one for non-tilt. The other divisions also had 2, tilt and non tilt as well. The Pontiacs were unique in that they were different than all other GM lines as they had 1 extra blade on them. The Pontiacs all had an extra cavity in the clear connector at the switch and that extra blade on which to plug that cavity. It is the resistor bypass circuit and must be used or the car will not start in most instances. That particular blade sends a 12v signal to the coil when cranking the car. The pink ignition circuit plays to the coil through a resistance wire and only delivers about 9 volts to the coil which will generally not be enough voltage to start the car. The car runs on between 9.0 and 9.6 fine, but needs 12-14 to start. Unfortunately, the Pontiacs used a starter without a bypass circuit and took their bypass feed directly off the ignition switch. The dash harnesses in these cars are wired accordingly. You MUST use that yellow wire, and have a switch for that wire to plug onto or the car most likely will not start. Once in a great while, an engine will spin freely enough that once you get the engine turning over and release the key, it may catch and start, but that is an extreme exception, not the rule.
In conclusion, you will need to find a PONTIAC ONLY, TILT ignition switch to bolt onto this column, or the column will be useless in your car. The Pontiac non-tilt switch will not work on a tilt column either. Unfortunately, neither of those switches are commercially available any longer either. The switches listed and sold in many repro catalogs are really for a Chevy, Olds, Buick, etc. application and as such, DO NOT have the extra blade needed in the Pontiac application and will NOT WORK with a Pontiac dash harness and electrical system. Most likely, the only way to get one of the correct switches, is to find a good used or NOS one.
In conclusion, you will need to find a PONTIAC ONLY, TILT ignition switch to bolt onto this column, or the column will be useless in your car. The Pontiac non-tilt switch will not work on a tilt column either. Unfortunately, neither of those switches are commercially available any longer either. The switches listed and sold in many repro catalogs are really for a Chevy, Olds, Buick, etc. application and as such, DO NOT have the extra blade needed in the Pontiac application and will NOT WORK with a Pontiac dash harness and electrical system. Most likely, the only way to get one of the correct switches, is to find a good used or NOS one.
Q: I am interested in one of your wiring kits for my streetrod/muscle car, however, I am running a Mallory Uni-lite distributor, not a points or GM HEI setup. Are your wiring kits compatible with a Uni-Lite distributor? Are there any changes that I need to make to my wiring to ensure proper ignition function?
A: Our wiring kits are set-up with a 12v feed directly to the ignition coil, such as is required by GM HEI systems. In some cases, our kits will include instruction sheets for using a points type distributor along with a ballast resistor as an alternative to the out-of-the-box HEI setup. That said, our kits do not include instructions for wiring a Mallory Uni-Lite distributor, and typically, the correct wiring of a Uni-Lite distributor will be different than what is required for either an HEI or points setup. The correct wiring of a Uni-Lite distributor is determined by the model number of the unit. Please refer to the Mallory instruction sheets, or Mallory technical support for the correct way to wire your particular distributor. In most cases, all that will be required to make a Uni-Lite distributor will be the inclusion of a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit, but this really needs to be confirmed with Mallory. Although American Autowire technical support strives to be on the cutting edge of the various offerings from the automotive aftermarket, the sheer volume of the available ignition systems on the market requires us to defer to the instructions provided by the appropriate manufacturer.
A: Our wiring kits are set-up with a 12v feed directly to the ignition coil, such as is required by GM HEI systems. In some cases, our kits will include instruction sheets for using a points type distributor along with a ballast resistor as an alternative to the out-of-the-box HEI setup. That said, our kits do not include instructions for wiring a Mallory Uni-Lite distributor, and typically, the correct wiring of a Uni-Lite distributor will be different than what is required for either an HEI or points setup. The correct wiring of a Uni-Lite distributor is determined by the model number of the unit. Please refer to the Mallory instruction sheets, or Mallory technical support for the correct way to wire your particular distributor. In most cases, all that will be required to make a Uni-Lite distributor will be the inclusion of a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit, but this really needs to be confirmed with Mallory. Although American Autowire technical support strives to be on the cutting edge of the various offerings from the automotive aftermarket, the sheer volume of the available ignition systems on the market requires us to defer to the instructions provided by the appropriate manufacturer.
The Autometer oil pressure gauge must use the Autometer supplied sender. Therefore, you cannot splice into the stock oil pressure sender. You will have to remove the original oil pressure sender unless it includes lead wires to the ECU along with the original oil pressure gauge signal. An easier way to connect the gauge is to use the oil cover located above the oil filter. The GM #12551587 oil cover has an extension that has a 12mm threaded hole used to accept a stock oil temperature sender. This cover accepts the Autometer #2277 12 mm to 1/8 NPT adapter. The oil pressure sender can these be installed in the adapter. If there is conflict between the oil sender and the headers, a braided stainless steel line can be used to remotely mount the sender. Connect the oil pressure sender lead wire directly from this sender to the oil pressure gauge.
The Autometer water temperature gauge must use the Autometer supplied sender. Therefore you cannot splice into the stock water temp sender. You will have to install the Autometer water temperature sender in the rear of the right side (passenger) cylinder head. There is an existing water jacket 12 mm access bolt that will have to be removed. The Autometer sender uses a 1/8 NPT. Autometer has a 12 mm to 1/8 NPT adapter (#2277) that must be used. The sender supplied with the water temperature gauge is part #2258. Autometer recommends replacing this sender with their part # 2259 which is a shorter sender. This sender can then be installed in the adapter. The water temperature sender lead wire can then be connected from the #2259 sender directly to the water temperature gauge.
No, the orange wire in any of our Classic Update Kits is a fused 12v ignition feed that should be used as the “keyed” trigger wire that connects to your cooling fan relay.
Based upon your vehicle size or length, you can mount the Highway 15 or 22 Series in the trunk area. Most trunk locations used are not at the most rear of the vehicle, but generally behind the passenger seat shelf. By funneling the wire from the panel along the transmission tunnel, you will have ample amount of wire to complete the front and dash harnesses. Smaller cars such as 32′s – 40′s vehicles are good examples, as well as mid -size muscle cars. Larger sedans and station wagons should consider using our part #500839 Optional long Wire Trunk Kit. This kit will assure you do not cut yourself short prior to completing your installation. You can always contact the Sales / Technical staff in the event you are uncertain with your mounting location.
Yes, but you may need an additional accessory depending on the following:
* If the vehicle is still utilizing incandescent bulbs elsewhere in the circuit and you are only replacing SOME of the lights with LEDs, you may be able to still use the existing flasher can.
* If you have replaced the lights with ALL LEDs and there are NO incandescent bulbs (parking / front turn signal, stop / tail light) then you will need an electronic “no load” flasher to make your signals/hazards flash properly. AAW offers a no load flasher to handle this situation. (part # 500832)
The issue: LED lamps create little to no load on your system. The way a normal flasher can works is that there is a piece of bi-metal inside the can that pops on and off as it detects the load on the system from the incandescent bulbs. When those bulbs are removed, the flasher no longer senses any load, therefore it stops popping on and off. When LEDs are introduced exclusively into the system, the no load flasher creates an artificial load which, in turn, flashes the lamps on and off.
* If the vehicle is still utilizing incandescent bulbs elsewhere in the circuit and you are only replacing SOME of the lights with LEDs, you may be able to still use the existing flasher can.
* If you have replaced the lights with ALL LEDs and there are NO incandescent bulbs (parking / front turn signal, stop / tail light) then you will need an electronic “no load” flasher to make your signals/hazards flash properly. AAW offers a no load flasher to handle this situation. (part # 500832)
The issue: LED lamps create little to no load on your system. The way a normal flasher can works is that there is a piece of bi-metal inside the can that pops on and off as it detects the load on the system from the incandescent bulbs. When those bulbs are removed, the flasher no longer senses any load, therefore it stops popping on and off. When LEDs are introduced exclusively into the system, the no load flasher creates an artificial load which, in turn, flashes the lamps on and off.
Do not replace a blown fuse with one that has a higher amperage rating. The fuse has a specific amperage rating because it is intended to be the weak link in the circuit to protect the electrical components. A blown fuse indicates excessive current has entered the circuit. This can be caused by a number of things: a shorted electrical component, a faulty or accidental connection between two different circuits, just to name a few. It is recommended to bring your vehicle to someone who specializes in auto electrical problems.
Even a 4-headlight system that is utilizing standard type halogen lamps should be OK with any of our kits providing that you have utilized our dimmer and lamp switches. The current draw on a standard set of 4 halogen bulbs is about 13 amps. With our dual power feeds to the headlight switch, the main circuit breaker is only carrying the load of the headlights themselves, and that breaker and circuit will carry 13 or 14 amps with no problem whatsoever. If you are talking about some other type of hi output lamps, simply calculate the amperage output. If the total current draw is more than about 15-18 amps, an enhancement system may be in order.
No. All American Autowire Classic Update kits are designed for modern 12 volt, electronic ignition systems, not points. Original Mustang tachometers based their rpm readout on frequency of ignition point closures and therefore are incompatible.
You could use a Remote Disconnect (500834) on a 6V system if it is not drawing too much current; however, it was designed to run on a 12V system. The plunger which acts as the on off switch is activated by the strength of the 12V current. A 6V current may not have enough strength to work the switch.
It is not recommended that original switches be used in any of our kits. In many instances, the method of connection is completely different, as the switches that we include are updated-style units. The amperage ratings on our switches are usually higher than stock so that they will carry the extra load capabilities of the updated harnesses. In addition, our ignition switches are mutually bussed between crank and run (whereas most originals are not) so that updated items such as HEI, MSD, fuel injection, and single wire “high torque” starters can be used.
Yes, this can be made to work. However, there are a few extenuating circumstances to consider. First, our switch is engineered to work with our harness. While your original switch may work, you will probably have to cut and splice that into our harness, as the mating connector will most likely be different than what we have supplied.
Secondly, and more importantly, is that most early ignition switches are not mutually bussed between “crank” and “run”. This means that the primary ignition circuit is hot when the key is in the “run” position, but when key is turned further to the crank position, the voltage drops out of the primary circuit. Most early systems used a bypass wire from the starter solenoid to complete voltage to the coils in the “crank” position. So you may ask yourself “why can’t I just add that wire”? As long as you have an early type starter with an “R” terminal on it, you can. However, most modified cars being built today are running the newer style mini or hi-torque starters and very few of them have that necessary “R” terminal on the solenoid. We do have some work-arounds for these issues including a bypass wire and diode combo that attaches to the “S” terminal and will help you overcome some of these issues. Another issue is fuel injection. If you choose to try and use your old switch and it is not mutually bussed, the injectors will not pulse, the coils will not fire, and the car will not start.
These are just a few of the reasons that simply put, you are just much better off using the AAW switch that comes with your new system. All of our ignition switches are mutually bussed and will work in all of the above instances without any modifications at all.
Secondly, and more importantly, is that most early ignition switches are not mutually bussed between “crank” and “run”. This means that the primary ignition circuit is hot when the key is in the “run” position, but when key is turned further to the crank position, the voltage drops out of the primary circuit. Most early systems used a bypass wire from the starter solenoid to complete voltage to the coils in the “crank” position. So you may ask yourself “why can’t I just add that wire”? As long as you have an early type starter with an “R” terminal on it, you can. However, most modified cars being built today are running the newer style mini or hi-torque starters and very few of them have that necessary “R” terminal on the solenoid. We do have some work-arounds for these issues including a bypass wire and diode combo that attaches to the “S” terminal and will help you overcome some of these issues. Another issue is fuel injection. If you choose to try and use your old switch and it is not mutually bussed, the injectors will not pulse, the coils will not fire, and the car will not start.
These are just a few of the reasons that simply put, you are just much better off using the AAW switch that comes with your new system. All of our ignition switches are mutually bussed and will work in all of the above instances without any modifications at all.
While there may be a way to make this work, it would be best to utilize the switch that came with the kit. First of all, with a new switch you are far less likely to encounter any performance issues within the system, and generally speaking, hooking up a new harness to an older switch is not a great idea. Secondly, our system is engineered around that included switch and incorporates two battery fed inputs. The first, an un-fused headlight feed, is wired directly through the internal thermal circuit breaker inside of the switch, and that is all that is on that circuit. A secondary fused input feed supplies the tail, parking, and dash lamps. This split allows for more of an amperage load directly to the headlamp circuit so that if you are using halogen lamps or alike, you will have less of a chance with that circuit tripping due to the increased load that those lamps can put on a system.
Q: Why would my battery die in a day or two?
A: There are a few things that can do this. The first and most obvious is the condition of the battery. If a battery is old, or is in a car that seldom gets used and is stored for great lengths of time, the internals can sulfate and go bad. When this happens, the battery will appear to take a charge, but will not hold it. You’ll want to recharge you battery on a slow setting and try to bring it back up and see how it reacts. A good battery will generally read between 13.6 and 14.6 volts at rest. Once completely charged, do a draw test (if you have that capability) and see how the battery reacts. If the battery drops below 9-10 volts on a heavy draw and stays below where it was before you performed the test, there’s a good chance that you need a new battery. Generally, if a battery is over about 4 years old and continues going dead, it’s safe bet that the battery has outlived its useful life. This can happen almost overnight in the fall or winter. A batter that has given you no indication that it has any problems will appear to die “overnight”. As the days and nights get colder, the useful cranking amps of a battery begin to diminish as the electrons move more slowly in the cold and you can actually get a break in the internal cells of the battery as well. When this happens, it’s time to buy a new battery.
The other thing that can happen, is a heavy draw on the battery when it is at rest, can discharge the battery almost overnight. The logical thing to do, is once again, recharge the battery in a slow fashion. It is best to remove the negative cable to do this and charge the battery either in or out of the vehicle. After the battery has been brought back up to the proper charge level, and before hooking the negative cable back up, take a test light and connect it between the negative cable and negative battery post. If your test lamp lights up, than you have a draw on your system. The brighter the light, the heavier the draw. If the light comes on dimly, something such as a clock or digital radio can cause a slight draw and give you this scenario. This will eventually kill the battery, but will usually take a very long time to do so, especially if the battery is in good operating condition.
If you get a bright and persistent light, this is an indication of a draw heavy enough to quickly kill your battery. Locating the source of the draw is easier than you might think. With the test light still hooked up as outlined above between the negative post on the negative cable and with a brightly illuminated light, start removing fuses one at a time. This will generally occur on a “battery” circuit or one that is hot all the time (things like a lighter, courtesy lamps, stop lamps, dome lamp, etc.). When the light goes off, you have found the offending circuit. Once you have determined the problem circuit, see what is connected into that circuit and start unplugging those items one at a time (This method also works on a circuit that blows a fuse). Again, when the light goes out, you have found your culprit. Fix and repair it as necessary.
Now even with all the fuses pulled, the light continues to stay on. That tells us that the problem is being caused by a “battery unfused circuit”. Things like a voltage regulator, alternator, ignition switch, headlight switch, and even some lighters will be on an unfused circuit. Again, start unhooking these items one at a time being careful not to ground them out (as being unfused, these leads and will cause quite a mess if grounded out). Internally regulated alternators, while usually a great product, are notorious for developing an open diode inside of them that diverts 12 volts to ground and drains a battery overnight. They will charge a battery, operate perfectly, and give you no indication of any problem. Disconnecting the alternator and having the test lamp go out finds this problem for you.
A: There are a few things that can do this. The first and most obvious is the condition of the battery. If a battery is old, or is in a car that seldom gets used and is stored for great lengths of time, the internals can sulfate and go bad. When this happens, the battery will appear to take a charge, but will not hold it. You’ll want to recharge you battery on a slow setting and try to bring it back up and see how it reacts. A good battery will generally read between 13.6 and 14.6 volts at rest. Once completely charged, do a draw test (if you have that capability) and see how the battery reacts. If the battery drops below 9-10 volts on a heavy draw and stays below where it was before you performed the test, there’s a good chance that you need a new battery. Generally, if a battery is over about 4 years old and continues going dead, it’s safe bet that the battery has outlived its useful life. This can happen almost overnight in the fall or winter. A batter that has given you no indication that it has any problems will appear to die “overnight”. As the days and nights get colder, the useful cranking amps of a battery begin to diminish as the electrons move more slowly in the cold and you can actually get a break in the internal cells of the battery as well. When this happens, it’s time to buy a new battery.
The other thing that can happen, is a heavy draw on the battery when it is at rest, can discharge the battery almost overnight. The logical thing to do, is once again, recharge the battery in a slow fashion. It is best to remove the negative cable to do this and charge the battery either in or out of the vehicle. After the battery has been brought back up to the proper charge level, and before hooking the negative cable back up, take a test light and connect it between the negative cable and negative battery post. If your test lamp lights up, than you have a draw on your system. The brighter the light, the heavier the draw. If the light comes on dimly, something such as a clock or digital radio can cause a slight draw and give you this scenario. This will eventually kill the battery, but will usually take a very long time to do so, especially if the battery is in good operating condition.
If you get a bright and persistent light, this is an indication of a draw heavy enough to quickly kill your battery. Locating the source of the draw is easier than you might think. With the test light still hooked up as outlined above between the negative post on the negative cable and with a brightly illuminated light, start removing fuses one at a time. This will generally occur on a “battery” circuit or one that is hot all the time (things like a lighter, courtesy lamps, stop lamps, dome lamp, etc.). When the light goes off, you have found the offending circuit. Once you have determined the problem circuit, see what is connected into that circuit and start unplugging those items one at a time (This method also works on a circuit that blows a fuse). Again, when the light goes out, you have found your culprit. Fix and repair it as necessary.
Now even with all the fuses pulled, the light continues to stay on. That tells us that the problem is being caused by a “battery unfused circuit”. Things like a voltage regulator, alternator, ignition switch, headlight switch, and even some lighters will be on an unfused circuit. Again, start unhooking these items one at a time being careful not to ground them out (as being unfused, these leads and will cause quite a mess if grounded out). Internally regulated alternators, while usually a great product, are notorious for developing an open diode inside of them that diverts 12 volts to ground and drains a battery overnight. They will charge a battery, operate perfectly, and give you no indication of any problem. Disconnecting the alternator and having the test lamp go out finds this problem for you.
While American Autowire does not currently manufacture any EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) engine management harnesses, our Classic Update, Highway, Builder, and Power Plus Series kits are directly compatible with most OEM and aftermarket engine management systems. Generally speaking, most engine management wiring systems will only require two power sources that can be sourced directly from the fuse panels provided in our kits: a 12v keyed ignition power source and a direct battery powered source.
There is a combination of 2 tools that we recommend to do that job properly. The Double Crimper (part# 500523) crimps the heavy 10-12 gauge wires and double wire crimps, and the Splice Clip Crimper (part# 500649) crimps the 14-18 gauge single wire crimps. These two tools are investment quality products that will last a lifetime when cared for properly. The tools were specifically designed by Delphi-Packard to crimp the quality OEM open barrel Delphi Packard terminals that we supply with our kits. The tools are available to be purchased or rented from American Autowire. Most who do rent them, actually end up keeping them…. they are that good!
Open barrel terminals offer the best possible connection to a wire as long as they are applied properly. We would recommend that both tools mentioned above be used to ensure the best possible performance of your new harness kit. These tools deliver the best mechanical crimp available for the OEM Delphi Packard terminals. The tools roll the wings of the terminals down into the wire, and when applied properly with the correct pressure and tooling, will keep the wire from pulling out of the crimped terminal. A proper crimp will help you avoid such things as a high resistance connection that ultimately will create excessive heat and premature failure of a harness or connection.
Even though we recommend using the Delphi Packard crimpers, it is not necessary that you use only those crimpers. Many home auto enthusiasts choose to use generic crimpers to just snug the terminal onto the wire and then spot solder each connection. If you choose this route and do a good job, you should have good results. However, just be aware that your time to install the kit will be raised significantly by having to solder each and every connection that you need to make. Is crimping the terminals this way the best way? No, but it will work. Remember to use the solder sparingly. Too much can cause the solder and flux to wick up inside the wire casing, causing a brittle connection and possibly other issues in the future.
We have investigated many other crimping tools over the years, but none do the job as well as the original Delphi Packard crimpers. For example, Snap-On and Mac each make one crimper that is pretty good, but still does cover the complete range of terminals that the Delphi Packard tools do. In addition, they are priced similarly to the Delphi Packard crimpers.
The bottom line is that if you want the proper tools to do a job the right way, they do cost a bit more, and our feelings are “the right tools for the best job”.
For more information and a video demonstration, visit the crimping tools section of our website.
Open barrel terminals offer the best possible connection to a wire as long as they are applied properly. We would recommend that both tools mentioned above be used to ensure the best possible performance of your new harness kit. These tools deliver the best mechanical crimp available for the OEM Delphi Packard terminals. The tools roll the wings of the terminals down into the wire, and when applied properly with the correct pressure and tooling, will keep the wire from pulling out of the crimped terminal. A proper crimp will help you avoid such things as a high resistance connection that ultimately will create excessive heat and premature failure of a harness or connection.
Even though we recommend using the Delphi Packard crimpers, it is not necessary that you use only those crimpers. Many home auto enthusiasts choose to use generic crimpers to just snug the terminal onto the wire and then spot solder each connection. If you choose this route and do a good job, you should have good results. However, just be aware that your time to install the kit will be raised significantly by having to solder each and every connection that you need to make. Is crimping the terminals this way the best way? No, but it will work. Remember to use the solder sparingly. Too much can cause the solder and flux to wick up inside the wire casing, causing a brittle connection and possibly other issues in the future.
We have investigated many other crimping tools over the years, but none do the job as well as the original Delphi Packard crimpers. For example, Snap-On and Mac each make one crimper that is pretty good, but still does cover the complete range of terminals that the Delphi Packard tools do. In addition, they are priced similarly to the Delphi Packard crimpers.
The bottom line is that if you want the proper tools to do a job the right way, they do cost a bit more, and our feelings are “the right tools for the best job”.
For more information and a video demonstration, visit the crimping tools section of our website.
Yes. American Autowire provides instructions for kits in our modified restoration and street rod divisions: Classic Update, Highway, Builder, and Power Plus Series. These instructions and schematics will be included in the box with your kit. Should you lose your copy, or need an extra, instructions are available online. You can view, download, and print instructions any time, from your computer or mobile device! Click here to find instructions for your kit.
American Autowire does not provide instructions for Factory Fit® OEM wiring online or in print because Factory Fit® products are a direct replacement to a vehicle’s original wiring. As you remove the old wiring, you can literally plug the corresponding section of the Factory Fit® harness in behind it. However, if you would like a guide to help install your OEM wiring, we recommend the original factory assembly manual, section 12. They are available through our webstore here.
American Autowire does not provide instructions for Factory Fit® OEM wiring online or in print because Factory Fit® products are a direct replacement to a vehicle’s original wiring. As you remove the old wiring, you can literally plug the corresponding section of the Factory Fit® harness in behind it. However, if you would like a guide to help install your OEM wiring, we recommend the original factory assembly manual, section 12. They are available through our webstore here.
Yes, every boot, tube and grommet and connector needed for the rewiring of your car is included in our Classic Update Kits. Included are tail light sockets,dash light sockets, indicating light sockets, GM connectors.
Temperature gauge troubleshooting begins with isolating the problem either to the gauge, sending unit, fuse or wiring. As with any electrical troubleshooting it is best to check all wiring connections are clean, tight and free of corrosion.
The following process must be preformed with the ignition key turned to the “on” position. The first place to start is at the temperature-sending unit. Remove the wire from the temperature-sending unit located on the engine (typically a dark green wire). Then connect the wire to a good ground. You can do this by using a jumper wire. Check the gauge, if the needle points to “Hot”, replace the sending unit. If the needle does not move, remove the same dark green wire from back of the gauge and connect a jumper from the terminal on the back of the gauge to a good ground. Check the gauge if the needle moves toward “Hot”, the wire from the gauge to the sending unit has an open or bad connection. If it does not move, connect a test light by grounding one end to a good known ground and the other end to positive side of the gauge (typically a pink wire). If it does not illuminate, ensure the gas gauge fuse is good. If the fuse is good, connect a jumper wire between the ignition switch and the positive side of the gauge. If the gauge now works, replace the defective wiring between the gauge and the ignition switch. If the test light illuminates there is 12 volts present, replace the temperature gauge.
The following process must be preformed with the ignition key turned to the “on” position. The first place to start is at the temperature-sending unit. Remove the wire from the temperature-sending unit located on the engine (typically a dark green wire). Then connect the wire to a good ground. You can do this by using a jumper wire. Check the gauge, if the needle points to “Hot”, replace the sending unit. If the needle does not move, remove the same dark green wire from back of the gauge and connect a jumper from the terminal on the back of the gauge to a good ground. Check the gauge if the needle moves toward “Hot”, the wire from the gauge to the sending unit has an open or bad connection. If it does not move, connect a test light by grounding one end to a good known ground and the other end to positive side of the gauge (typically a pink wire). If it does not illuminate, ensure the gas gauge fuse is good. If the fuse is good, connect a jumper wire between the ignition switch and the positive side of the gauge. If the gauge now works, replace the defective wiring between the gauge and the ignition switch. If the test light illuminates there is 12 volts present, replace the temperature gauge.
Q: Your Highway 15 kit has provisions for a dual headlamp system. My car has quad headlamps. What parts do I need, and can they be purchased separately? Is there a diagram to add this connection?
A: Yes, the high beam headlamp connectors and terminals can be purchased separately. They are sold individually as American Autowire part# 500197 and come complete with the plastic connector and the terminals needed to incorporate them into any system using this type of lighting arrangement. Keep in mind that they are sold individually, so you’ll need to purchase 2 to complete your job. As far as instructions are concerned, we do not offer any printed instructions. However, installation is fairly simple:
A: Yes, the high beam headlamp connectors and terminals can be purchased separately. They are sold individually as American Autowire part# 500197 and come complete with the plastic connector and the terminals needed to incorporate them into any system using this type of lighting arrangement. Keep in mind that they are sold individually, so you’ll need to purchase 2 to complete your job. As far as instructions are concerned, we do not offer any printed instructions. However, installation is fairly simple:
- Crimp the new supplied terminals onto new lt. green and black wires.
- Then splice or connect the other end of those wires into your existing Highway kit LH headlight connector that already contains the lt. green and black wires.
- Once you have done this, simply plug the 2 new wires into the new 2-way connector (500197) that you purchased.
- Then plug that connector onto the LH high beam light bulb assembly.
- Repeat this process for the RH side.
It is important to understand that the Classic Update kits are NOT intended as an alternative to factory OE replacement harnesses. The intention of these kits is for them to be installed in a modified application or vehicle. The Classic Update kits are marketed as complete kits, yes.
A complete kit would give you the circuits needed to hook up the stock components and even some optional items (2 speed wipers, radio, factory gauges, etc.) as well. Included would be connections for things like lighting, turn signals, gauges, heater (in some instances), ignition, lighter, clock, steering column, radio, all engine connections, alternators, etc. We do not include any connections for factory ammeters. From time to time, we have made the decision to simply supply the feed wire for various options when found that there were far too many scenarios to address. A good example of this would be the wiper connection on our 64-6 Mustang Kit. There were about 8 or 9 totally different configurations on the wiper systems used on those models and as such, we chose to simply supply the main power feed wires for both the washer and wiper circuits just as Ford did back in the 1960s. On those OE applications, the wiper harnesses were optional items specified for each car and simply plugged into the main feed (or feeds) depending on which optional system the car was equipped with.
In your specific instance, items such as factory air conditioning, power windows and power top would all be optional items and would not be included. This is no different than in the OE application. Power windows, top, and A/C were all optional items that would be installed as “stand alone” harnesses from the factory. If we were to chock the kit full of every single possible optional harness available from the OE, the harness would be 2-3 times the price that they are, weigh perhaps 40-50 pounds, and 75% of customers would just throw hundreds of dollars worth of product away as many of those optional harness items would not be applicable to their car or build. However, in almost every instance, we have provided a power feed wire or connection point for you to be able to connect your stock or aftermarket power accessory into the main Classic Update harness.
A complete kit would give you the circuits needed to hook up the stock components and even some optional items (2 speed wipers, radio, factory gauges, etc.) as well. Included would be connections for things like lighting, turn signals, gauges, heater (in some instances), ignition, lighter, clock, steering column, radio, all engine connections, alternators, etc. We do not include any connections for factory ammeters. From time to time, we have made the decision to simply supply the feed wire for various options when found that there were far too many scenarios to address. A good example of this would be the wiper connection on our 64-6 Mustang Kit. There were about 8 or 9 totally different configurations on the wiper systems used on those models and as such, we chose to simply supply the main power feed wires for both the washer and wiper circuits just as Ford did back in the 1960s. On those OE applications, the wiper harnesses were optional items specified for each car and simply plugged into the main feed (or feeds) depending on which optional system the car was equipped with.
In your specific instance, items such as factory air conditioning, power windows and power top would all be optional items and would not be included. This is no different than in the OE application. Power windows, top, and A/C were all optional items that would be installed as “stand alone” harnesses from the factory. If we were to chock the kit full of every single possible optional harness available from the OE, the harness would be 2-3 times the price that they are, weigh perhaps 40-50 pounds, and 75% of customers would just throw hundreds of dollars worth of product away as many of those optional harness items would not be applicable to their car or build. However, in almost every instance, we have provided a power feed wire or connection point for you to be able to connect your stock or aftermarket power accessory into the main Classic Update harness.
You must first determine what direction you are going with your project.
Are you replacing or repairing existing wiring? Are you restoring the vehicle to original condition? Do want the look of originality under the hood of the vehicle?
These would lead you into our Factory Fit line of wring harnesses. These harnesses are replacements built to exact GM specifications. Each harness meets the requirements of the make, model, year and options when the vehicle was manufactured. These harnesses are considered “plug and play” in design.
Do the plans for your vehicle include items such as an aftermarket custom gauge and dash package, custom steering column, engine swaps with Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), any of the other performance enhancement products? Or would you like to hide the wiring as much as possible? Do you consider your vehicle more of a Hot Rod, Pro-Street or Pro-Touring project?
If so, you will most likely gravitate towards our Modified Restoration and Custom series of wiring kits:
The Classic Update Series is made for the restoration enthusiast who wants some modern amenities in their classic vehicle. The kits are designed for specific year/make/model vehicles. All the switches, connectors, and terminals you need are included. With these kits, we do most of the work, then allow you, the builder, to complete the installation and connections based upon the components you have chosen to install, and where you would like to place the wiring. Classic Updates are currently available in 20 kits!
Highway Series Kits are the most versatile in the American Autowire product line because they employ a “modular fuse panel”. This means that no wires are plugged into the fuse panel when you purchase a Highway kit. Seem strange? This allows you to mount the fuse box in a location of your choice: under or behind a seat, in a console or glove box, or possibly in the trunk. Mount the box and begin to wire the connections back to the box. Two Kits are available to meet your circuit requirements – the Highway 15 and Highway 22.
The Power Plus Series and Builder Series of universal harnesses are terminated at the fuse box and pre-wired for the convenience of the installer. This simplifies the installation. The fuse boxes in these kits are typically mounted under the dashboard in the traditional driver side location. You will still complete the installation of the final connections, but half your work is completed! There are two kits in the Power Plus Series – Power Plus 13 and Power Plus 20; and one in the Builder Series – Builder 19.
So there we are – a few different style kits based upon your decision on how you choose to build your project. Get a plan together. Understand your project and the direction you want to go.
You can always contact our knowledgeable Sales/ Technical Staff to offer guidance in determining which program is best suited for your project.
Are you replacing or repairing existing wiring? Are you restoring the vehicle to original condition? Do want the look of originality under the hood of the vehicle?
These would lead you into our Factory Fit line of wring harnesses. These harnesses are replacements built to exact GM specifications. Each harness meets the requirements of the make, model, year and options when the vehicle was manufactured. These harnesses are considered “plug and play” in design.
Do the plans for your vehicle include items such as an aftermarket custom gauge and dash package, custom steering column, engine swaps with Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), any of the other performance enhancement products? Or would you like to hide the wiring as much as possible? Do you consider your vehicle more of a Hot Rod, Pro-Street or Pro-Touring project?
If so, you will most likely gravitate towards our Modified Restoration and Custom series of wiring kits:
The Classic Update Series is made for the restoration enthusiast who wants some modern amenities in their classic vehicle. The kits are designed for specific year/make/model vehicles. All the switches, connectors, and terminals you need are included. With these kits, we do most of the work, then allow you, the builder, to complete the installation and connections based upon the components you have chosen to install, and where you would like to place the wiring. Classic Updates are currently available in 20 kits!
Highway Series Kits are the most versatile in the American Autowire product line because they employ a “modular fuse panel”. This means that no wires are plugged into the fuse panel when you purchase a Highway kit. Seem strange? This allows you to mount the fuse box in a location of your choice: under or behind a seat, in a console or glove box, or possibly in the trunk. Mount the box and begin to wire the connections back to the box. Two Kits are available to meet your circuit requirements – the Highway 15 and Highway 22.
The Power Plus Series and Builder Series of universal harnesses are terminated at the fuse box and pre-wired for the convenience of the installer. This simplifies the installation. The fuse boxes in these kits are typically mounted under the dashboard in the traditional driver side location. You will still complete the installation of the final connections, but half your work is completed! There are two kits in the Power Plus Series – Power Plus 13 and Power Plus 20; and one in the Builder Series – Builder 19.
So there we are – a few different style kits based upon your decision on how you choose to build your project. Get a plan together. Understand your project and the direction you want to go.
You can always contact our knowledgeable Sales/ Technical Staff to offer guidance in determining which program is best suited for your project.
The low fuel indicator is a small round plastic can containing four wires that is in the gauge package. It is not crucial to the operation of the gauges. In fact, many gauge clusters removed them when they were not functional. The module plugs into the fuel gauge for power, signal, and ground. There is a fourth yellow wire that comes from the module that goes to the dash through the console harness and the dash harness console extension to activate a light in the instrument cluster. However, here is where the problem arises.
The 1967 low fuel module operates by sending a 12 volt power signal on the yellow wire to a single contact bulb mounted in the dash cluster underneath the circuit board. The bulb has grounding tangs that ground the bulb through the instrument cluster body.
The 1968 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to one of the 12 pin instrument cluster connector contacts. This subsequently lights a low fuel indicator bulb through the circuit board connection on the back of the cluster. This circuit board is different for a warning light versus a factory console gauge car.
The 1969 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to a bulb located in the instrument cluster light pods at the bottom of the dash.
The low fuel modules are not interchangeable.
The 1967 low fuel module operates by sending a 12 volt power signal on the yellow wire to a single contact bulb mounted in the dash cluster underneath the circuit board. The bulb has grounding tangs that ground the bulb through the instrument cluster body.
The 1968 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to one of the 12 pin instrument cluster connector contacts. This subsequently lights a low fuel indicator bulb through the circuit board connection on the back of the cluster. This circuit board is different for a warning light versus a factory console gauge car.
The 1969 low fuel module operates by sending a ground signal on the yellow wire to a bulb located in the instrument cluster light pods at the bottom of the dash.
The low fuel modules are not interchangeable.
The Battery Cable Kits are 8 feet long for the under the hood and 18 feet for the trunk mounted versions.
Authorized returns with a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA) number affixed to the outside of the package will be processed within 48 hours of receipt at our facility. All returns are inspected by our QA department. Any applicable credits/refunds are issued within 48 hours, although your financial institution may take an additional 1-3 days to process the credit/refund. You will be notified immediately if we have any questions about your return, assuming there is an RMA number on the box. Any returns that arrive to us without an RMA number will take longer to process and could potentially be returned to the customer. If you have any questions about a return, please call 800-482-9473 x233.
The Highway Series universal kits are designed to allow the builder / installer the opportunity to place the fuse box in a location of their choice. Mounting the unit under the dash is certainly acceptable. Mounting the box to a metal bracket or plate and then attaching it to a mating plate attached to the firewall via magnets will have no adverse effect on the panels operation.
I would suggest the installation of #500717 Grounding Kit in your particular project to allow for more efficient grounding requirements and locations. This is especially critical with fiberglass bodied projects.
I would suggest the installation of #500717 Grounding Kit in your particular project to allow for more efficient grounding requirements and locations. This is especially critical with fiberglass bodied projects.
Are you running a 1-wire alternator? My guess is that you probably are. The alternator needs to pick up to about 14-15 volts to compensate for the extreme voltage draw that you are experiencing. Your A/C system and high speed blower draw quite a bit of amperage, as do electric fans. If you have dual fans that are activated whenever the A/C is turned on, it is conceivable that you have as much of a draw as 70+ amps just from those appliances alone. This does not even include any other tax on the system. The problem with a 1-wire alternator is that it does not sense that high draw, because there is no sense wire in the system at the alternator. All it knows is that it’s putting out 13+ volts so all should be good. An alternator is capable of charging 21+ volts if unregulated. The sense wire allows the alternator to see what the draw or capacity of the charging circuit is. If a system has a strong draw, the alternator will pick up a bit to compensate for that draw. In a 1-wire system, they are self-exiting and as such have no exciter or sensing circuit.
On another note, it doesn’t really matter how good your system is, when you have that much of a current draw, you are going to have a drop in voltage. I own a 98 suburban with a 454 Vortec, and all HD everything. When the air is on and the auxiliary electric fan kicks in, my voltage drops from 14.2 down to about 12.5-13. This is acceptable. I have never had any problem with the battery going dead or any long term charging issues.
On another note, it doesn’t really matter how good your system is, when you have that much of a current draw, you are going to have a drop in voltage. I own a 98 suburban with a 454 Vortec, and all HD everything. When the air is on and the auxiliary electric fan kicks in, my voltage drops from 14.2 down to about 12.5-13. This is acceptable. I have never had any problem with the battery going dead or any long term charging issues.
The points distributor used a resistance to lower the voltage to the points in the run position to prevent wear on the points. This was done with either an external ballast resistor or a resistance wire in the ignition circuit depending on the year of the car. For starting purposes, there was a 12 volt override supplied by a separate wire from the “R” terminal on the starter solenoid to the ignition coil. When converting to an HEI there are three issues which must be addressed. The first concerns the resistance in the run circuit. The second concerns the gauge of wire feeding the HEI distributor. The third concerns the starter 12 volt override and the ignition switch. When using HEI, the distributor requires a 12 volt feed. In order to achieve this the ballast resistor or the resistance wire must be removed from the circuit and replaced with a pure 12 gauge feed wire. This feed wire must be 12 gauge from the ignition switch to the bulkhead and then from the bulkhead to the HEI power terminal. This solves the first two concerns. The third situation can be solved in two ways. The original 12 volt override wire from the starter solenoid “R” terminal to the ignition coil must be retained and must be doubled up with the new 12 volt ignition feed before the wires are plugged into the HEI power terminal. The reason this is necessary is that the ignition switch is mutually exclusive in the crank and run positions. This means that there is no power on the “RUN” circuit when the ignition switch is in the “CRANK” mode. Subsequently, without the lead wire from the starter solenoid “R” terminal, the car won’t start. An alternative solution involves changing the ignition switch to one that supplies 12 volts on the “RUN” circuit when the ignition is in “CRANK” mode. With this type of ignition switch, a 12 volt override wire from the starter is not necessary. Subsequently, if your starter had an “R” terminal and you changed the ignition switch as described here, the original 12 volt override wire could be eliminated.
This can be caused by a few different scenarios.First, if your car consistently sits for a long amount time and the battery is older, the battery may be sulfated to the point that it will no longer hold a charge for any significant length of time. The new gel-cell batteries have a very high tolerance against this scenario and are a perfect solution for those of us here in the northern states where our cars get stored for long lengths of time over the winter months. If your car has a digital radio or fuel injection and the car gets parked for a long length of time, this can actually be likely and proper occurrence. Most new cars manufacturers actually address this exact scenario in their owner’s manual. The computers in these types of items have a constant draw on them that, after a given length of time, will actually drain the battery. Some new cars can actually drain a new battery in a matter of weeks. The third scenario is that you have a constant draw (other than an expected one as outlined above) that drains the battery rather quickly. An appliance of some type that is faulty can generally cause this problem.
Solution: The first thing to determine is what your specific problem is. We do this by first giving the battery a good, slow, low amperage charge. Try to avoid a quick charge as this can actually damage the battery in some instances. Once the battery is fully charged and is up to about 14 – 14.6 volts, do a “load test” on the battery. If the voltage drops below 10 volts or so, there is a good chance that the battery has outlived its useful life expectancy. Likewise, if after doing the load test, the “at rest” voltage is significantly below the 14 – 14.6 that was observed prior to doing the test, there is a good chance that the battery is also bad. If the battery is still good, we need to find out where the draw is coming from. The way to accomplish this is by taking the negative cable off of the battery and hooking up a test light in series between the negative cable and the negative post on the battery. Once that is set up, begin removing one fuse at a time until your test light goes out. Once that happens, you have found the circuit where the problem exists. In some very rare instances, the removal of every fuse will not turn the test light out. When that happens, you’ll need to start unplugging any un-fused battery connections such as the horn relay or alternator. In very rare instances, one of these 2 methods may not help you to locate your draw. When that situation arises, it is recommended that you consult your harness manufacturer.
Solution: The first thing to determine is what your specific problem is. We do this by first giving the battery a good, slow, low amperage charge. Try to avoid a quick charge as this can actually damage the battery in some instances. Once the battery is fully charged and is up to about 14 – 14.6 volts, do a “load test” on the battery. If the voltage drops below 10 volts or so, there is a good chance that the battery has outlived its useful life expectancy. Likewise, if after doing the load test, the “at rest” voltage is significantly below the 14 – 14.6 that was observed prior to doing the test, there is a good chance that the battery is also bad. If the battery is still good, we need to find out where the draw is coming from. The way to accomplish this is by taking the negative cable off of the battery and hooking up a test light in series between the negative cable and the negative post on the battery. Once that is set up, begin removing one fuse at a time until your test light goes out. Once that happens, you have found the circuit where the problem exists. In some very rare instances, the removal of every fuse will not turn the test light out. When that happens, you’ll need to start unplugging any un-fused battery connections such as the horn relay or alternator. In very rare instances, one of these 2 methods may not help you to locate your draw. When that situation arises, it is recommended that you consult your harness manufacturer.
Unfortunately, this is a question that we receive quite regularly. There are 3 different applications for these console gauge conversion wire harness kits. They are as follows: Column shift automatic TO floor shift automatic with gauges; floor shift automatic TO floor shift automatic with gauges; and any column or floor shifted manual, with or without a console TO floor shift manual with gauges. If you car DOES NOT fit one of these scenarios, you WILL NOT be able to use an adapter harness to operate your new gauge set. In an instance such as yours, where the configuration of the car has changed to include a different style of transmission (auto. vs. manual), the ONLY alternative is to contact us or your favorite dealer to purchase the CORRECT underdash and engine compartment wire harnesses for your new application as all three harnesses are affected by the addition of the tach and gauges.
Speaking of a tach, that also adds another wrinkle to this situation. ALL 67-9 Camaro console gauge equipped cars came mandatory with a factory tach up in the dash cluster that replaced the fuel gauge. If you are adding gauges, you MUST also add the factory dash tach in place of the fuel gauge.
The deciding factor in whether the kit will work in your car is what connector exists (or doesn’t exist) down at the heater deflector area on the transmission tunnel. The wire kits are designed to be plug and play with no cutting or splicing necessary. When we change a transmission, there are several factors that now become an issue such as back up lamps, neutral safety switch wiring, power feeds and how they get energized, etc.
We have recently updated all of the wiring directions for the various kits and they can now be found posted on our instructions website for your viewing pleasure. These all-new, full color instructions WILL work with older kits as nothing was changed from a manufacturing standpoint. If you just need clarification on some items on your kit, I strongly urge you visit this site and take in these exciting new instructions as they are much easier to follow since they are specific to each part numbered kit now.
Speaking of a tach, that also adds another wrinkle to this situation. ALL 67-9 Camaro console gauge equipped cars came mandatory with a factory tach up in the dash cluster that replaced the fuel gauge. If you are adding gauges, you MUST also add the factory dash tach in place of the fuel gauge.
The deciding factor in whether the kit will work in your car is what connector exists (or doesn’t exist) down at the heater deflector area on the transmission tunnel. The wire kits are designed to be plug and play with no cutting or splicing necessary. When we change a transmission, there are several factors that now become an issue such as back up lamps, neutral safety switch wiring, power feeds and how they get energized, etc.
We have recently updated all of the wiring directions for the various kits and they can now be found posted on our instructions website for your viewing pleasure. These all-new, full color instructions WILL work with older kits as nothing was changed from a manufacturing standpoint. If you just need clarification on some items on your kit, I strongly urge you visit this site and take in these exciting new instructions as they are much easier to follow since they are specific to each part numbered kit now.
What is causing your problem is the extra load on the headlight and dimmer switches, as well as the entire wiring system from those new halogen bulbs you installed. In general, even stock type sealed beam replacement halogen bulbs will draw a bit more current than their older incandescent style counterparts. If you get into some of the brighter type H-4 systems, that current draw will be even higher. The lighting circuit in your car is protected by a thermal circuit breaker located inside the headlamp switch. What you were experiencing was the tripping and re-setting of that circuit breaker due to a thermal overload, not a dead short. Replacing the headlamp switch with a new one may fix the situation, albeit very temporarily, but most times will do nothing at all. The problem will continue to persist. Even though it seems that the headlamp switch is carrying the entire load, there are several other factors that can come into play here. Anytime you make a connection to a switch or otherwise, you are going have a certain amount of voltage drop which is normal. The more connections you have and the older the system is, the greater the voltage drop and the more resistance within the system. The more resistance present, the more heat you generate which causes a strain on the fusing of that circuit.
The proper fix for this situation would be to install a headlight enhancement relay kit (either AAW P/N 500403 – standard; or 500431 -waterproof). These relays utilize the original wiring, headlamp and dimmer switches as triggers to strictly switch power to the coils in the relays and allow the overall load to be carried by two separate 30 amp fused battery powered feeds that route directly to the battery itself or a similar junction block. By doing this, we take the entire load that those new halogen lamps have created off of the production switches and wiring system (other than about 2-3 amps to flip the coils) and transfer that load directly to the battery via the new 30 amp battery feeds. This does two things. First, the older switches and wiring will live much longer and function much better. Second, and more importantly, because power is being drawn directly from the battery without going through a series of switches, disconnects, and in general, the whole stock wiring system, a full 12-14 volts will now be realized directly at the lamps themselves giving you much brighter lights.
Click here for part# 500403 (standard headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
Click here for part# 500431 (waterproof headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
The proper fix for this situation would be to install a headlight enhancement relay kit (either AAW P/N 500403 – standard; or 500431 -waterproof). These relays utilize the original wiring, headlamp and dimmer switches as triggers to strictly switch power to the coils in the relays and allow the overall load to be carried by two separate 30 amp fused battery powered feeds that route directly to the battery itself or a similar junction block. By doing this, we take the entire load that those new halogen lamps have created off of the production switches and wiring system (other than about 2-3 amps to flip the coils) and transfer that load directly to the battery via the new 30 amp battery feeds. This does two things. First, the older switches and wiring will live much longer and function much better. Second, and more importantly, because power is being drawn directly from the battery without going through a series of switches, disconnects, and in general, the whole stock wiring system, a full 12-14 volts will now be realized directly at the lamps themselves giving you much brighter lights.
Click here for part# 500403 (standard headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
Click here for part# 500431 (waterproof headlight enhancer relay kit) information or to buy it now!
That yellow with black stripe wire is not included in our harness as that wire went directly out to the voltage regulator in a stock FORD application. We do not supply the actual voltage regulator harness wires in our kit, just an accessory keyed 12 volt power feed wire (brown wire 4D at branch #1) to switch the regulator “ON”. As our harness is an updated unit that was meant to be used in a modified car, most people will choose a 1 wire or other type of internally regulated alternator (we recommend a Ford G3 internally regulated unit) in conjunction with a voltmeter to monitor the condition of the charging circuit. In an original application, the check light wire (yellow with a black stripe) piggybacked into the regulator harness if the car was one that was equipped with an idiot light. For your application, you will simply need to run a wire from your voltage regulator “bulb check” connection back into the car and splice it into the yellow with black stripe lead on your 2-wire bulb assembly. The other side should be spliced using the brown wire from our harness to the black with green stripe wire on your 2-wire bulb assembly.
In most cases, the headlight switch would be fine for use with the typical sealed beam headlight system. However, If you do not know the power handling capability of the headlight switch or are updating to a higher current draw halogen headlight system, you might want to take the safety approach and take the load off the headlight switch by using a relay to control the power to your high and low beam dimmer switch. The relay is input 12 volt battery power. The original headlight switch power output is redirected to activate the relay. Relay output is directed to the low/high beam dimmer switch, taking the place of the original headlight switch power output. The dimmer switch acts as it always did by directing power output to either the low or high beam circuit. The result is that the original headlight switch becomes a low current switch. Please note that 12 volt power to the relay should be through a resetable circuit breaker.
If you have a true one wire alternator, just connect the single red wire from our harness to the output of the alternator and tape back the two wires that were designed for a 3 wire SI alternator.
Autometer states that if the tachometer is registering a signal but showing an incorrect tachometer reading, the problem is in the calibration setting. The factory setting is for 8 cylinder operation. Reset the calibration for 4 cylinder operation for this ECU and the tachometer should register correctly.
The sensitivity of the speedometer is affected by extraneous signals around the gauge. Electronic ignition systems are typical examples of devices that emit signals that interfere with the operation of the speedometer. The solution recommended by Classic Instruments is to use a separate power wire and a separate ground wire for the speedometer. The power wire should not be the same power source used for the rest of the gauges. The ground wire should be independently ground to the chassis at a point different from the ground point used for the rest of the gauges.
We have noticed that Autometer has also experienced this problem on some of their gauges. The problem primarily arises when the gauges are powered during the starter crank cycle. Apparently, the starter motor operation and draw on the system affects the gauge. For most wiring systems, the ignition circuit, to which the gauges are normally connected, is live in the crank cycle. The solution is to separate the speedometer power from the ignition circuit and move it to the accessory circuit. It will not be live in the crank cycle but will activate when the ignition switch is moved off the crank position to the run position.
Now, more than ever, it is important to note that shielding of your electronic accessories has to be part of your wiring plan.
We have noticed that Autometer has also experienced this problem on some of their gauges. The problem primarily arises when the gauges are powered during the starter crank cycle. Apparently, the starter motor operation and draw on the system affects the gauge. For most wiring systems, the ignition circuit, to which the gauges are normally connected, is live in the crank cycle. The solution is to separate the speedometer power from the ignition circuit and move it to the accessory circuit. It will not be live in the crank cycle but will activate when the ignition switch is moved off the crank position to the run position.
Now, more than ever, it is important to note that shielding of your electronic accessories has to be part of your wiring plan.
This is actually far easier than you might have imagined. Our systems all incorporate a light blue “third break lamp” wire which is doubled up with the white “break switch” wire that comes off of the cold side of the brake lamp switch (the orange wire at the switch is the hot side). Simply clip the white wire from that connection and your brake lamps will no longer work through the turn signal switch. Route that light blue “third break lamp” wire to the rear of the vehicle and wire in it into your brake lamp sockets. Next, install the rear turn signal and tail lamp wiring according to our instructions. By doing these few simple things, your turn signals will now work totally independent of the brake lamp switch.
Typically, GM vehicles prior to 1982 have starter solenoids with three posts:
Post # 1: Battery – This is the large post on the solenoid which is usually found on the center top of the solenoid. This is the post where the positive battery cable attaches along with any battery feed wires that the car might require. These wires are usually heavy gauge red, or black wires and may contain a fusible link.
Post # 2: The “R” Post – this post is one of two small posts on the solenoid. This post becomes hot only while the starter is cranking. On an original points car, this post feeds a wire that sends full voltage to the coil during cranking. This wire is know as the resistance bypass wire, as it bypasses the resistance circuit that will typically feed the coil when the car is running. This is done to boost the coil output during engine start. It is noteworthy that on some of our HEI conversion engine harnesses this wire is retained due to the design of the factory ignition switch and circuitry. While factory HEI vehicles do not have this bypass wire, on some of our HEI conversion harnesses, this wire is still required and may be found on your harness. This wire is typically yellow, but can be green, pink, or black with a pink or yellow stripe. On typical GM starters this post is generally the small post closest to the engine block. Occasionally you will see this post marked with a “C” instead of an “R.”
Post # 3: The “S” (solenoid) Post – this the other small post on the starter solenoid, and is typically the post farthest from the block. This post will accept the purple wire on the engine harness. The purple wire carries current from the ignition switch, often via the neutral safety switch, down to the starter to activate the starter.
Occasionally you will see a smaller gauge black wire leading down to the starter as well. This will actually hook directly to small ground screw on the starter body itself.
Post # 1: Battery – This is the large post on the solenoid which is usually found on the center top of the solenoid. This is the post where the positive battery cable attaches along with any battery feed wires that the car might require. These wires are usually heavy gauge red, or black wires and may contain a fusible link.
Post # 2: The “R” Post – this post is one of two small posts on the solenoid. This post becomes hot only while the starter is cranking. On an original points car, this post feeds a wire that sends full voltage to the coil during cranking. This wire is know as the resistance bypass wire, as it bypasses the resistance circuit that will typically feed the coil when the car is running. This is done to boost the coil output during engine start. It is noteworthy that on some of our HEI conversion engine harnesses this wire is retained due to the design of the factory ignition switch and circuitry. While factory HEI vehicles do not have this bypass wire, on some of our HEI conversion harnesses, this wire is still required and may be found on your harness. This wire is typically yellow, but can be green, pink, or black with a pink or yellow stripe. On typical GM starters this post is generally the small post closest to the engine block. Occasionally you will see this post marked with a “C” instead of an “R.”
Post # 3: The “S” (solenoid) Post – this the other small post on the starter solenoid, and is typically the post farthest from the block. This post will accept the purple wire on the engine harness. The purple wire carries current from the ignition switch, often via the neutral safety switch, down to the starter to activate the starter.
Occasionally you will see a smaller gauge black wire leading down to the starter as well. This will actually hook directly to small ground screw on the starter body itself.
In all “points type” ignition systems, the OEM manufacturer installed a resistance wire or a ballast resistor to reduce the voltage to the ~9.6 volts for long term ignition performance. During normal engine operation, the points open and close allowing the resistance wire to discharge voltage to each spark plug at the timed increments, thus, minimizing the heat (warm to touch) build-up on the resistance wire. Common reasons for the resistance wire to become very hot to touch is the ignition key left “ON” for long periods of time during harness installation, when the ignition point contacts are closed. This unique ignition points position will not allow the resistance wire to discharge voltage and excessive heat (very hot to touch) will build up on the resistance wire.
A second reason for excess heat build up on the resistance wire is when an aftermarket HEI (12 volt) ignition system has been installed. The newer performance HEI ignition system is demanding excessive voltage through the resistance wire due to the HEI ignition system’s 12 volt operational requirements. In this case, the resistance wire will have to be removed and replaced with a piece of 12 gauge wire.
A second reason for excess heat build up on the resistance wire is when an aftermarket HEI (12 volt) ignition system has been installed. The newer performance HEI ignition system is demanding excessive voltage through the resistance wire due to the HEI ignition system’s 12 volt operational requirements. In this case, the resistance wire will have to be removed and replaced with a piece of 12 gauge wire.
More than likely, there is no problem with your switch. The red headlight feed wire only feeds the output to the dimmer. The orange wire in the switch is what feeds the dash, tail, and parking lamps. It sounds like you have no feed on that orange wire which means that you have a blown fuse in the fusebox more than likely. That orange wire is (battery fused) hot all the time as soon as the battery is connected. If your fuse blows as soon as the battery is connected, there is a short on the orange wire itself. If however, it doesn’t blow until you activate the H/L switch, one of your brown parking lamp or tail lamp wires is shorted directly to ground or possibly even in one of the lamp sockets or bulbs. Once you find your short, your switch should work fine
This is a very common question. People assume that because the dashes look the same, that they can just install the pretty tach and gauge set-up that they bought at the swap meet over the weekend. Unfortunately, nothing could be further from the truth. In almost every application, the harnesses that make these items work are TOTALLY different!
Solution: Before making the decision to add tach and gauges to your car or truck, know what you are getting yourself into. Purchasing that tach and gauge set up is only the tip of the iceberg. Chances are, you will need to spend another $500-$700 on wiring harnesses to make those gauges work. What ever vehicle you are working on, check with a wiring manufacturer for availability and pricing on what is needed to convert your ride to factory instrumentation from warning lights BEFORE you spend all that money on that beautiful tach and gauge cluster. Try to avoid so called “add-on” kits that just act as a band-aid on your 40 year old original harness.
Solution: Before making the decision to add tach and gauges to your car or truck, know what you are getting yourself into. Purchasing that tach and gauge set up is only the tip of the iceberg. Chances are, you will need to spend another $500-$700 on wiring harnesses to make those gauges work. What ever vehicle you are working on, check with a wiring manufacturer for availability and pricing on what is needed to convert your ride to factory instrumentation from warning lights BEFORE you spend all that money on that beautiful tach and gauge cluster. Try to avoid so called “add-on” kits that just act as a band-aid on your 40 year old original harness.
The instruction sheets that are included with all of our wiring kits* (Classic Update, Highway, Builder, and Power Plus Series) are now online! You can view, download, and print instructions any time, from your computer or mobile device!
Click here to find instructions for your kit.
*American Autowire only provides instructions for kits in our modified restoration and street rod divisions. Instructions for Factory Fit® OEM wiring are not provided online or in print because Factory Fit® products are a direct replacement to a vehicle’s original wiring. As you remove the old wiring, you can literally plug the corresponding section of the Factory Fit harness in behind it. However, if you would like a guide to help install your OEM wiring, you can purchase an original factory assembly manual from our webstore here.
Click here to find instructions for your kit.
*American Autowire only provides instructions for kits in our modified restoration and street rod divisions. Instructions for Factory Fit® OEM wiring are not provided online or in print because Factory Fit® products are a direct replacement to a vehicle’s original wiring. As you remove the old wiring, you can literally plug the corresponding section of the Factory Fit harness in behind it. However, if you would like a guide to help install your OEM wiring, you can purchase an original factory assembly manual from our webstore here.
All of our Classic Update kits, as well as some of our Power Plus and Builder Series kits, include an accessory power plug. Find the accessory power plug on your instruction sheet. There you will generally find 6 power feed wires that we have been tabbed for various accessories such as fuel pump, power windows, power locks, power trunk, etc. In addition, we specify whether that wire is “Ignition”, “Battery”, or “Accessory” fed. In your case, you need a keyed-on power source, which would be an “ignition” powered source. In the accessory plug of any given Classic Update kit, there are 1 to 3 ignition fed power wires such as “Power Windows”, “Cruise Control”, “Fuel Pump”, etc. Choose one of those wires that you are not using and plug your feed wire into the mating connector included with the kit. Mating terminals and connector have been provided to do this.
Be sure to install the proper size fuse for the job that you are doing.
If all of the accessory wires are being used, there are several unfused power “taps” on the face of the fuse box marked with an I, A, or B (ignition, accessory, battery). One of these may be used. American Autowire offers a power tap kit (part# 500429) that consists of a series of connectors and terminals that can be installed onto your wires and plugged into the AAW panel. Keep in mind that these cavities are ALL unfused and should have the proper fuse installed in series between the connection and whatever appliance you are trying to install.
Be sure to install the proper size fuse for the job that you are doing.
If all of the accessory wires are being used, there are several unfused power “taps” on the face of the fuse box marked with an I, A, or B (ignition, accessory, battery). One of these may be used. American Autowire offers a power tap kit (part# 500429) that consists of a series of connectors and terminals that can be installed onto your wires and plugged into the AAW panel. Keep in mind that these cavities are ALL unfused and should have the proper fuse installed in series between the connection and whatever appliance you are trying to install.
No, sorry we cannot help you. From the late 50’s up until about 1969, most all GM models had no front seat speaker harness. Those wires were actually part of the front speaker assembly and were never serviced as separate items. Most speaker assemblies had a piece of lt. green and black “ripcord” wire hard soldered into the speaker itself with a connector on the other end which plugged directly into the radio unit. Your best bet is to find an original GM speaker for your make and model car and have the speaker assembly rebuilt. There are many companies out there that offer this service.
Unfortunately, this can be a bit confusing and also a bit lengthy. Since I don’t know what type of harness is being used in your application, I will try to cover all of the bases here. Basically, you’ll need a fused, 12 volt ignition feed to accomplish this task.
If you are using a Factory Fit® OEM harness, there are a few things to consider. Many 1970 and later harnesses already have a fused 12 volt feed in the harnesses that were used to power up things like idle stop solenoids, TCS spark controls, turbo 400 kickdown power, etc. If you are fortunate enough to have one of these harnesses, you can usually just tap off of one of those feeds.
If you have Factory Fit harness earlier than 1970, you most likely do not have a fused 12-volt fed wire already in the harness. It would be best to run a new wire into the car and plug it onto one of the accessory blades on the fuseblock where you see “IGN FUSED”. If you would prefer, you can also tap into the windshield wiper feed wire, as that is also a 12-volt ignition fused circuit.
What you do not want to do under ANY circumstances is take power from you coil or main distributor feed. Two reasons for this:
When using any of the other American Autowire wiring KITS such as a Classic Update, Power Plus, Highway, or Builder Series, you simply need to take any ignition fused 12 volt feed (use about a 10 amp fused) and connect it to your electric choke assembly. Some AAW products actually have a wire already allotted for an electric choke, so watch for that in your instructions. This will generally be outlined in the engine connection area of your instruction set
If you are using a Factory Fit® OEM harness, there are a few things to consider. Many 1970 and later harnesses already have a fused 12 volt feed in the harnesses that were used to power up things like idle stop solenoids, TCS spark controls, turbo 400 kickdown power, etc. If you are fortunate enough to have one of these harnesses, you can usually just tap off of one of those feeds.
If you have Factory Fit harness earlier than 1970, you most likely do not have a fused 12-volt fed wire already in the harness. It would be best to run a new wire into the car and plug it onto one of the accessory blades on the fuseblock where you see “IGN FUSED”. If you would prefer, you can also tap into the windshield wiper feed wire, as that is also a 12-volt ignition fused circuit.
What you do not want to do under ANY circumstances is take power from you coil or main distributor feed. Two reasons for this:
- That circuit is always unfused and you do not want to wire an electric choke to an unfused circuit. If it were to short out, it would just continue to burn and melt the entire time the ignition was turned to the “on” position because there would be no fuse to keep the circuit in check.
- Most stock primary ignition circuits are wired through a resistance wire, which only allows about 8.6 to 9.6 volts to the coil. This would not be enough voltage to properly operate your electric choke.
When using any of the other American Autowire wiring KITS such as a Classic Update, Power Plus, Highway, or Builder Series, you simply need to take any ignition fused 12 volt feed (use about a 10 amp fused) and connect it to your electric choke assembly. Some AAW products actually have a wire already allotted for an electric choke, so watch for that in your instructions. This will generally be outlined in the engine connection area of your instruction set
The alternator may not be recharging the battery. To complete a simple test on the alternator, follow these steps. Obtain a voltmeter that can test direct current (DC) voltage. Connect the voltmeter to the battery. With the engine off, the reading should be around 12.1 to 12.6 volts. Start the engine. The voltmeter now should show a reading of 13.6 to 14.6 volts. If the reading is less than that, the alternator may not be recharging the battery as required.
This is a frequently submitted question with a very simple solution. We have found that some of our switches need a slight pressure applied to the middle of the switch to get the headlight shaft to seat. If you can hold the switch with the metal side down, support the ends of the switch and giving the whole assembly a slight upward pressure in the middle the shaft should slide right in.
As you don’t mention which kit you have, I will address this situation in broad based form. There are actually 2 different ways of making this connection depending on what you are trying to accomplish. Both are very easy to complete. Generally speaking, there are two connections on a push button ignition switch, “power in” and “power out”, and it doesn’t usually matter which is which. On any of our kits at the ignition switch connection, you will find the following wires: Red; Pink; Brown; and Purple.
The first connection possibility involves the push button starter only working when the ignition is turned to the “On” position. To accomplish this, splice or double a 12-gauge jumper wire off of the pink wire at the ignition switch connection and take that jumper wire over to one side of the push button switch. Next, take the red, brown, and pink wires and connect them to our supplied ignition switch just as the instructions dictate. Lastly, take the purple wire and connect it to the opposite side of the push button switch where you connected the pink wire earlier. The push button will remain “dead” until the ignition switch is activated to the “On” position. Once the ignition switch is turned on, there will be power at the push button. When the button is depressed, that power will transfer down the purple wire to the starter solenoid activating the starter and allowing the engine to start.
The second way to make the connection involves the push button starter being hot and able to be activated anytime the battery is connected. To accomplish this, splice or double a 12-gauge jumper wire off of the red wire at the ignition switch connection and take that jumper wire over to one side of the push button switch. Next, take the red, brown, and pink wires and connect them to our supplied ignition switch just as the instructions dictate. Lastly, take the purple wire and connect it to the opposite side of the push button switch where you connected the pink wire earlier. The push button will remain “hot” all of the time, and the push button will be able to be activated and crank the engine all the time. However, that car will not start until the ignition switch is activated to the “On” position. Once the ignition switch is turned on, there will be power at the coil and the car will fire upon the button being depressed.
Either way is acceptable. If you have a racecar or one that needs to have the valves adjusted quite frequently, the second scenario would be advantageous to you as the engine could be rotated without fear of it starting.
The first connection possibility involves the push button starter only working when the ignition is turned to the “On” position. To accomplish this, splice or double a 12-gauge jumper wire off of the pink wire at the ignition switch connection and take that jumper wire over to one side of the push button switch. Next, take the red, brown, and pink wires and connect them to our supplied ignition switch just as the instructions dictate. Lastly, take the purple wire and connect it to the opposite side of the push button switch where you connected the pink wire earlier. The push button will remain “dead” until the ignition switch is activated to the “On” position. Once the ignition switch is turned on, there will be power at the push button. When the button is depressed, that power will transfer down the purple wire to the starter solenoid activating the starter and allowing the engine to start.
The second way to make the connection involves the push button starter being hot and able to be activated anytime the battery is connected. To accomplish this, splice or double a 12-gauge jumper wire off of the red wire at the ignition switch connection and take that jumper wire over to one side of the push button switch. Next, take the red, brown, and pink wires and connect them to our supplied ignition switch just as the instructions dictate. Lastly, take the purple wire and connect it to the opposite side of the push button switch where you connected the pink wire earlier. The push button will remain “hot” all of the time, and the push button will be able to be activated and crank the engine all the time. However, that car will not start until the ignition switch is activated to the “On” position. Once the ignition switch is turned on, there will be power at the coil and the car will fire upon the button being depressed.
Either way is acceptable. If you have a racecar or one that needs to have the valves adjusted quite frequently, the second scenario would be advantageous to you as the engine could be rotated without fear of it starting.
In the design process, American Autowire has relocated the horn relay from the engine compartment to under the dash for ease of installation. This allows for a cleaner look in the engine compartment and reduces the quantity of wires in the engine bay. This black pinned rectangular box is your new horn relay. In the 1955-57 Chevy Classic Update kits, the horn relay has 5 pins and is mounted in the base of the fuse box assembly. All of our other Classic Update kits are designed with a 3-pin connector on the main dash harness. This 3-pin connector is comprised of “Red”, “Green” and “Black” wires. The “Red” wire is the main 12-volt power feed for the horn relay. The “Green” wire is the actual horn 12-volt feed. When activated, that is wired through the front light harness to power up the horn. The “Black” wire is the horn relay ground wire that is wired through the steering column connector and activates the horn when the horn button is pushed. It is important that you install the relay before troubleshooting a non-working horn circuit.
All of our Highway Series Street Rod Kits are set up to accept and connect to GM “SI” series or 1 wire alternators. Typically, a generator system is of a much lower output and really should not be used in a modified car. However, when we are talking about a very basic period style Hot Rod, there may be some instances when a generator is a viable alternative. If you are not using a super high energy, or aftermarket ignition system, or do not have the likes of air conditioning, etc., you may be OK to use a generator.
The wiring schematic included with your kit is not meant to be used for installation instruction. In fact, if you were to attempt to wire the entire vehicle using only your schematic it would be somewhat difficult. We have attached the schematic to give an overall understanding of how each circuit is connected.
It is best to start wiring based on the kit section (denoted by letter….each letter will correspond with a section of your kit) suggested in the “Start Here” page of your instructions. This will walk you through each part of your installation with much more detail than you will find in a schematic. Doing this will not only make the job of rewiring feel much more approachable, but can help prevent installation based issues.
It is best to start wiring based on the kit section (denoted by letter….each letter will correspond with a section of your kit) suggested in the “Start Here” page of your instructions. This will walk you through each part of your installation with much more detail than you will find in a schematic. Doing this will not only make the job of rewiring feel much more approachable, but can help prevent installation based issues.
If you are installing one of our American Autowire 1964-66, 1967-68, 1969, or 1970 Mustang Classic Update kits, and are using your stock instrument cluster, you will need to use your original Ford OEM constant voltage unit. The constant voltage unit is normally mounted on the back of the instrument gauge cluster (we have shown a typical 1967 Mustang instrument cluster and harness below). As listed in our installation instructions (510056, page 3; 510126 page 3; or 510186 page 3) the AAW “Brown” accessory feed wire (4E) located in with the instrument cluster wires will be attached to the (Ford color code) “Black with Light Green Stripe” wire that feeds the constant voltage unit in the stock Ford OEM original instrument cluster. If you are making your own male/female gauge disconnect harness using our supplied gauge harness connectors, you will need to take the brown (4E) wire and connect it to the Ford OEM constant voltage unit input side. On the output side of the constant voltage unit, you will attach a feed wire that will be run to each of the factory gauges that requires constant reduced voltage.
If you have purchased (shown below) replacement parking light assemblies for your 1964-66 Mustang, the after-market wire colors are Black and Light Blue on the double female connector and a Brown or Tan on the single male connector. To connect the after-market parking assemblies wires to an American Autowire 510125 1964-66 Classic update wiring kit, please follow these instructions:
Park Light
The “Black” park light wire on the after-market parking light assemblies will be connected to the AAW “Brown” park light (circuit 9A) wire on Circuit Branch 2. The AAW circuit 9A “Brown” park light wire is utilized to feed 12 volts to both after-market park light assemblies on the “low” filaments side of the 1157 bulbs.
Turn Signal
The “Light Blue” wire on the after-market parking light assemblies will be connected to the AAW circuit branch 2 “Light Blue” (circuit 14B) for left hand turn signal and the AAW circuit branch 2 “Dark Blue” (circuit 15B) for right hand turn signal. Both the AAW “Light Blue” and Dark Blue are used to feed 12 volts to the “high” filament on the 1157 bulbs.
Park Light
The “Black” park light wire on the after-market parking light assemblies will be connected to the AAW “Brown” park light (circuit 9A) wire on Circuit Branch 2. The AAW circuit 9A “Brown” park light wire is utilized to feed 12 volts to both after-market park light assemblies on the “low” filaments side of the 1157 bulbs.
Turn Signal
The “Light Blue” wire on the after-market parking light assemblies will be connected to the AAW circuit branch 2 “Light Blue” (circuit 14B) for left hand turn signal and the AAW circuit branch 2 “Dark Blue” (circuit 15B) for right hand turn signal. Both the AAW “Light Blue” and Dark Blue are used to feed 12 volts to the “high” filament on the 1157 bulbs.
The 12-volt feed into the panel is not being energized by the battery.There can be several reasons for this depending on what type of car and harness we are talking about. This is a very common problem on the early Full-sized Chevrolets, Novas, and Chevelles in particular. On those early cars, the battery cable had a 70-80 inch secondary lead molded into the head that went all the way across the core support and sent 12 volts over to the horn relay or generator regulator. Be sure that wire is present if you are working on one of those cars. You may also have a blown fusible link down at the starter on the panel feed wire.
Solution: Using a test light or meter, check for voltage on all of your battery 12 volt wires (usually a heavy red wire) starting at the ignition switch and working your way back to the panel and ultimately the source, be it the battery, a junction block, or the starter solenoid. Once you have found where the voltage does not exist, you have found your problem.
Solution: Using a test light or meter, check for voltage on all of your battery 12 volt wires (usually a heavy red wire) starting at the ignition switch and working your way back to the panel and ultimately the source, be it the battery, a junction block, or the starter solenoid. Once you have found where the voltage does not exist, you have found your problem.
All of our Updated and Street Rod Kits are set up to accept and connect to GM “SI” series or 1 wire alternators. Typically, an externally regulated unit is of a much lower output and really should not be used in a modified car. These kits are made for updated applications with higher power demands and as such, require a higher output-charging unit. Our position is, and always will be, that on a modified vehicle, an internally regulated unit is a must.
The most likely cause is a back feed from the alternator or electronic ignition,. This can be diagnosed by disconnecting the alternator while the run on occurs. If the engine shuts off, the installation of a diode is required in line with the exciter wire on the alternator.
More than likely, the neutral safety switch wires are not hooked up. This is a fairly common over sight.
Solution: Most dash wiring harnesses have the neutral safety switch wires installed in them already and simply need to either be hooked through a neutral safety switch (in the case of an automatic transmission) or just need to be joined together (in the case of a manual transmission) to complete the starter circuit back to the ignition switch. If they are not hooked together, power will not be continued from the ignition switch down to the starter.
Solution: Most dash wiring harnesses have the neutral safety switch wires installed in them already and simply need to either be hooked through a neutral safety switch (in the case of an automatic transmission) or just need to be joined together (in the case of a manual transmission) to complete the starter circuit back to the ignition switch. If they are not hooked together, power will not be continued from the ignition switch down to the starter.
Q: Only two of the lamps on either side of the car had two wires going into the lamp sockets while the third socket only had a single wire. My original has 2 wires going into each of the 6 lamp sockets. Why?
A: Great question! We almost always build any of our Factory Fit® harnesses to the latest revision of the GM Engineering drawings. Your car is likely an extremely early production unit. GM actually changed the design of those 1966 Impala and Caprice rear body harnesses very early in production. The original configuration included 3 totally functional stop, turn, and tail lamp bulb sockets per side. The problem was that the wiring on those circuits was not capable of handling all that current (as the front to rear flat ribbon cable on those cars was only an 18 gauge trace or feed) when both the tail and break lights were applied at one time and left on for any extended duration. For that reason, it was not uncommon to blow the tail or stop lamp fuse on those early production cars. The natural customer reaction was to install a larger or more powerful fuse. By doing that, the wiring then became the weak link in the circuit. When those circuits became overloaded, instead of the fuse blowing as it originally did, in many instances, either the rear body harness or the flat ribbon cable would melt and create a short when the bare wiring touched the sheet metal.
GM’s fix for this was to stop the heat and overload by reducing one of the turn and stop feeds on each side of the car. The lower, or tail lamp filament inside the bulb did not create as much heat, nor did it draw as much amperage as the stop/turn filament did, therefore, they were left as is. In the new configuration, strictly the inboard and outboard lamps on either side of the car now functioned as stop and turn lamps, while all 3 on either side contained tail lamp circuitry.
A: Great question! We almost always build any of our Factory Fit® harnesses to the latest revision of the GM Engineering drawings. Your car is likely an extremely early production unit. GM actually changed the design of those 1966 Impala and Caprice rear body harnesses very early in production. The original configuration included 3 totally functional stop, turn, and tail lamp bulb sockets per side. The problem was that the wiring on those circuits was not capable of handling all that current (as the front to rear flat ribbon cable on those cars was only an 18 gauge trace or feed) when both the tail and break lights were applied at one time and left on for any extended duration. For that reason, it was not uncommon to blow the tail or stop lamp fuse on those early production cars. The natural customer reaction was to install a larger or more powerful fuse. By doing that, the wiring then became the weak link in the circuit. When those circuits became overloaded, instead of the fuse blowing as it originally did, in many instances, either the rear body harness or the flat ribbon cable would melt and create a short when the bare wiring touched the sheet metal.
GM’s fix for this was to stop the heat and overload by reducing one of the turn and stop feeds on each side of the car. The lower, or tail lamp filament inside the bulb did not create as much heat, nor did it draw as much amperage as the stop/turn filament did, therefore, they were left as is. In the new configuration, strictly the inboard and outboard lamps on either side of the car now functioned as stop and turn lamps, while all 3 on either side contained tail lamp circuitry.
Yes – you may need the 2nd wire. It’s all according to the ignition switch you are using. If your switch is NOT mutually bussed between “ON” and “Start” the engine may not even fire. What that means, is that in the “ON” position, you will have voltage at the ignition wire, but when you go past “ON” to “Start”, the ignition wire drops dead. That is why you may need the second wire at the starter (to pull voltage off of the starter in the “Start” position and energize the coil) so that the ignition will fire allowing the car to start. This all really depends on what year car you have, as the ignition switch functions vary from car to car and from year to year. If the wire is not needed, you can just tape it back to the harness being sure to properly insulate the lead, as it will be hot in the run position. This is also a very big issue for people putting the newer fuel injected engines into the older cars, as you MUST have voltage in the crank position for the injectors to fire or the car WILL NOT start.
Solution: We have an ignition switch bypass relay kit that will work with many GM products and is a 5-10 minute “plug and play” installation. We also have an “in dash” ignition switch that will replace many GM switches and IS mutually bussed between “ON’ and “Start” that will eliminate this problem.
Please visit shop.americanautowire.com or call 800-482-9473 to order.
Solution: We have an ignition switch bypass relay kit that will work with many GM products and is a 5-10 minute “plug and play” installation. We also have an “in dash” ignition switch that will replace many GM switches and IS mutually bussed between “ON’ and “Start” that will eliminate this problem.
Please visit shop.americanautowire.com or call 800-482-9473 to order.
This is a classic bad ground problem.The problem is that the light sockets themselves are not grounded properly or at all. For anything electrical to work properly, you must have two (2) things, a 12-volt feed and a ground. The bulb usually picks up a ground through the case of the bulb, but in this instance it’s picking up an improper feedback ground through the opposite wire in the light socket itself. The reason the turn signals quit working when the lights are on, is that a 12-volt signal is now being sent down the opposite wire, which was acting as a ground before. Once the lights are turned off, everything will work fine again.
Solution: Be sure that whenever your lamp is grounded, you have a good known chassis ground. This usually involved scraping paint or rust from the mounting surface and, in extreme cases, running a separate ground wire to the lamp assembly itself.
Solution: Be sure that whenever your lamp is grounded, you have a good known chassis ground. This usually involved scraping paint or rust from the mounting surface and, in extreme cases, running a separate ground wire to the lamp assembly itself.
There are a few possible scenarios going on here. As we’ve discussed previously, anything electrical needs a 12 volt feed and ground to work. The first, and most likely, culprit here is the fact that you are not getting 12 volts on the positive side of the gauge. Each gauge has a 12-volt ignition feed and a sender wire. The sender wire is the ground to the gauge. The sending unit wire could be bad or broken, or the circuit from the gauge to the sender is incomplete. Without a ground, the gauge will not register. It is highly unlikely that all the sender units are bad, so we can rule that out. Of course, it is also possible that all the gauges are malfunctioning. Again, this is unlikely.
Solution: The fact that the indicator lights are operational proves that the instrument cluster is properly grounded. First, check all connections to be sure that your colors and wire functions are mating with each other (green to green, blue to blue, etc,) and check for good crimps. With the key in the “ON” position, take a test light and check the feed wire at back of each gauge. You should have 12 volts at all gauges. If not, check the “gauges” fuse at the panel. Make sure you check for voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse as they can sometimes blow in the end where it cannot be seen visibly. If you have established that you DO NOT have 12 volts coming out of the panel, you’ll need to find out why. Put a good fuse in the “gauges” fuse location and continue testing the 12 volt feed circuit. If the fuse blows as soon as the key is turned on, something on the 12 volt feed circuit is shorted to ground. Remove the feed wires 1 at a time until the problem goes away. When you get to a gauge that you have removed the feed from and the problem goes away, you have found the culprit. Check for bare or broken wires on the leg. Perhaps the gauge is even shorted to ground internally. If all the gauges do in fact have 12 volts on them, you’ll need to start checking your sender wires. An easy check is take the temperature sender unit wire and, with the key in the on position, touch the temp sending unit wire to a good known ground. Your gauge should peg on ‘HOT”. If it does not and you have 12 volts on the gauge, you are not getting continuity to ground between the sender wire and the back of the gauge. Similar tests can be done for any gauge.
Solution: The fact that the indicator lights are operational proves that the instrument cluster is properly grounded. First, check all connections to be sure that your colors and wire functions are mating with each other (green to green, blue to blue, etc,) and check for good crimps. With the key in the “ON” position, take a test light and check the feed wire at back of each gauge. You should have 12 volts at all gauges. If not, check the “gauges” fuse at the panel. Make sure you check for voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse as they can sometimes blow in the end where it cannot be seen visibly. If you have established that you DO NOT have 12 volts coming out of the panel, you’ll need to find out why. Put a good fuse in the “gauges” fuse location and continue testing the 12 volt feed circuit. If the fuse blows as soon as the key is turned on, something on the 12 volt feed circuit is shorted to ground. Remove the feed wires 1 at a time until the problem goes away. When you get to a gauge that you have removed the feed from and the problem goes away, you have found the culprit. Check for bare or broken wires on the leg. Perhaps the gauge is even shorted to ground internally. If all the gauges do in fact have 12 volts on them, you’ll need to start checking your sender wires. An easy check is take the temperature sender unit wire and, with the key in the on position, touch the temp sending unit wire to a good known ground. Your gauge should peg on ‘HOT”. If it does not and you have 12 volts on the gauge, you are not getting continuity to ground between the sender wire and the back of the gauge. Similar tests can be done for any gauge.
The red wire connects to the battery (large) terminal on starter solenoid.
The purple wire connects to the “S” terminal on the solenoid.
The yellow wire connects to the “R” terminal on the solenoid.
The purple wire connects to the “S” terminal on the solenoid.
The yellow wire connects to the “R” terminal on the solenoid.
Problem: I purchased a kit for my 69 Camaro and I have hit a snag. I have scoured your Technical Headquarters site and have followed the suggestions related to the orange wire (the park lamp/dash feed) and I’ve produced predictable results. When I replace the parking lights fuse, I have 12 volts of power on the orange wire. When I turn on the lights, the side markers light up for a moment and then cut off, producing a blown fuse.
This led me to search for shorts on the brown parking lamp wire. I found a few “suspect” connections in the trunk and repaired them, tried again and it blew the fuse. Short still not found. However, I did notice that when I step on the brake pedal, the brake lights work yet my turn signals in the dash light up. Any idea what’s going on there?
The other symptoms include: no dash lights, no side markers, no parking lights, no courtesy lights – yet the dome light works fine.
Solution:
You have several problems that all sound installation oriented. The turn signal indicators lighting up is a ground backfeed. The brake and turn circuits have nothing to to do with the orange wire that feeds the brown parking/taillamp wires. The turns and brake lights should function independently if all else is OK (the exception would be an internally shorted 1157 bulb). The only thing that will blow a fuse as you describe is a dead short to ground. The way to find that short is put a fuse in the park light location (the reason you have no side markers, park, or tails is because that parking lamp fuse is blown – all the same feed), then disconnect the rear body harness and pull the lights switch out to the on position. If the fuse holds, your short is on one of the brown wires in the rear body, or even internally inside of a bulb. If it blows again, plug the rear body back in and disconnect the front light harness from the firewall and pull out the headlight switch to on again. If the fuse holds, the short is in the front end. If if blows, there is an issue inside the dash or the headlight switch itself.
UPDATE:
Found the short in the trunk – it was the license plate lamp.
So now I have a new problem: When I turn the key on (motor and headlights off), the blinkers work. But, when I turn on the headlights, the blinkers stop blinking and just light up – no blinking. The hazards do not work at all, no matter the combination. I also do not have reverse lights – but is that because the engine is not running? Lastly, I have dome lights but no courtesy lights.
Solution:
Your parking lamp housings are not grounded. The brown P/L wire is acting as a ground when the turns are on, but when you hit them with voltage, that wire can no longer act as a feed. The ground actually is supposed to come from the housing itself being grounded. If you have new 2 stage paint on the car, that is the culprit most likely. Ground those housings well and that will solve that problem. As far as the courtesies, pull the “T” shaped connection apart and you will find that the white wire has folded down against the housing and is not making a ground inside that connection. The orange wire should have 12 volts on it at all times.
This led me to search for shorts on the brown parking lamp wire. I found a few “suspect” connections in the trunk and repaired them, tried again and it blew the fuse. Short still not found. However, I did notice that when I step on the brake pedal, the brake lights work yet my turn signals in the dash light up. Any idea what’s going on there?
The other symptoms include: no dash lights, no side markers, no parking lights, no courtesy lights – yet the dome light works fine.
Solution:
You have several problems that all sound installation oriented. The turn signal indicators lighting up is a ground backfeed. The brake and turn circuits have nothing to to do with the orange wire that feeds the brown parking/taillamp wires. The turns and brake lights should function independently if all else is OK (the exception would be an internally shorted 1157 bulb). The only thing that will blow a fuse as you describe is a dead short to ground. The way to find that short is put a fuse in the park light location (the reason you have no side markers, park, or tails is because that parking lamp fuse is blown – all the same feed), then disconnect the rear body harness and pull the lights switch out to the on position. If the fuse holds, your short is on one of the brown wires in the rear body, or even internally inside of a bulb. If it blows again, plug the rear body back in and disconnect the front light harness from the firewall and pull out the headlight switch to on again. If the fuse holds, the short is in the front end. If if blows, there is an issue inside the dash or the headlight switch itself.
UPDATE:
Found the short in the trunk – it was the license plate lamp.
So now I have a new problem: When I turn the key on (motor and headlights off), the blinkers work. But, when I turn on the headlights, the blinkers stop blinking and just light up – no blinking. The hazards do not work at all, no matter the combination. I also do not have reverse lights – but is that because the engine is not running? Lastly, I have dome lights but no courtesy lights.
Solution:
Your parking lamp housings are not grounded. The brown P/L wire is acting as a ground when the turns are on, but when you hit them with voltage, that wire can no longer act as a feed. The ground actually is supposed to come from the housing itself being grounded. If you have new 2 stage paint on the car, that is the culprit most likely. Ground those housings well and that will solve that problem. As far as the courtesies, pull the “T” shaped connection apart and you will find that the white wire has folded down against the housing and is not making a ground inside that connection. The orange wire should have 12 volts on it at all times.
Are you tired of re-setting your radio station settings and your digital clock when you turn your master disconnect to the “OFF” position, for that early dinner time stop. Try our “LIFE LINE” Memory Retention Module. Just a few minutes for installation and you will have a constant 12 volt memory power for your radio, clock and ECM computer for those short stops when you turn your master disconnect “OFF”. Our “LIFE LINE” retails for $24.00.
See Instructions Here
See Instructions Here
Purchase and install a new fuse box
AAW does not recommend the purchase of a new fuse box for installation by the customer.
There are several reasons for this:
Recondition existing dash harness
AAW recommends a new dash as opposed to a reconditioned one. To qualify for reconditioning, you must meet the criteria listed below:
If the fuse box needs to be replaced as part of the recondition, there is an additional cost of $25.00.
Purchase a new dash harness
AAW recommends a new dash as opposed to either of the above choices. To find a dash for your make/model/year vehicle, you can visit the dash harness section of our online store at http://shop.americanautowire.com/dash-2.aspx or speak to a sales representative by calling 800-482-9473.
AAW does not recommend the purchase of a new fuse box for installation by the customer.
There are several reasons for this:
- The replacement of the fuse box is extremely difficult, almost impossible to perform with the dash harness installed in the vehicle.
- It is not an easy process to remove the fuse clips from the original fuse box.
- When cutting the original wire off the fuse clip and installing the new clip, the wire will be short for re-installation in the new fuse box
- 99% of the time there will be more issues with the harness than just the fuse box – cut wires, missing connectors, brittle or burned wire, etc.
Recondition existing dash harness
AAW recommends a new dash as opposed to a reconditioned one. To qualify for reconditioning, you must meet the criteria listed below:
- Customer must send the dash harness to AAW to determine if it can be reconditioned. If AAW determines it will take more than 2 hours of labor to recondition, it will not qualify for reconditioning.
- Before the customer sends the harness to AAW, they can perform a few checks to determine if the harness is repairable:
- Bend several wires to a 90 degree angle. If the insulation cracks, it will not qualify for reconditioning.
- Count how many wires have been cut or broken. If there are more than 20, it will not qualify for reconditioning.
- Visually inspect for burned or shorted wires. If there are more than 20 wires effected, it will not qualify for reconditioning.
If the fuse box needs to be replaced as part of the recondition, there is an additional cost of $25.00.
Purchase a new dash harness
AAW recommends a new dash as opposed to either of the above choices. To find a dash for your make/model/year vehicle, you can visit the dash harness section of our online store at http://shop.americanautowire.com/dash-2.aspx or speak to a sales representative by calling 800-482-9473.
There are a several deciding factors when choosing how to re-wire your car. Today, there are so many choices and it can be confusing. The first thing to do is to decide what your intentions are with the car. Generally speaking, the two choices you are inquiring about are your best bets.
If the modifications you have listed are your only deviations from stock, the right choice would seem to be OEM harnesses modified for your application (from our Factory Fit line). Items like HEI or MSD ignition, internally regulated or updated type alternators are easy modifications that American Autowire can include on an otherwise stock harness. In most instances, these updates do carry a modest up-charge fee.
While wiring the car bumper to bumper with the Factory Fit modified OEM harnesses will cost about $250-$300 more than the matching 1970-72 Nova Classic Update kit ($569 retail, check it out here), there may be other things to consider the initial cost.
The first is how the cost is distributed. The great thing about doing an OEM style re-wire is that you can buy the harnesses as you can afford them. This can be helpful when you are on a budget. Just as GM did, we build individual dash, engine, forward lamp, console, rear body, and other harnesses. Because of this, you can buy a dash and console now, the under hood items in a month, and the rear body harness later.
The other aspect is time. With the OEM styled harnesses, the installation time is cut by as much as 50-75%, when compared to a Classic Update kit. This is a huge consideration, especially if you are paying someone else to wire your car. Generally, the OEM harnesses can be done in a day, or about 8-10 hours as they are completely built for you and include every connector, terminal, clamp, or clip so they render a true “plug and play” experience. The kits on the other hand require you to lay out, cut and terminate all but the dash harness. Depending on the complexity of your build and how gutted the car is, 30-40 hours (and sometimes more) is not out of the question. Do the math. If you are paying someone $50/hour and it takes them 30 hours to complete the installation, that’s $1,500.00. The OEM can be done in about 10 hours, or about $500.00. In other words, the extra $300.00 you spend will save you about $700.00 on the back end of the job.
On the other hand, if your car has more than your previously listed modifications or time is less of a factor, the Classic Update kit could still be a valid option.
For an exact quote on your application, I would suggest that you contact our Sales group and explain to them what your planned build is about, and what options you may be adding now or even in the future. Or, if you would rather get a quote online, try our Factory Fit quote tool here.
If the modifications you have listed are your only deviations from stock, the right choice would seem to be OEM harnesses modified for your application (from our Factory Fit line). Items like HEI or MSD ignition, internally regulated or updated type alternators are easy modifications that American Autowire can include on an otherwise stock harness. In most instances, these updates do carry a modest up-charge fee.
While wiring the car bumper to bumper with the Factory Fit modified OEM harnesses will cost about $250-$300 more than the matching 1970-72 Nova Classic Update kit ($569 retail, check it out here), there may be other things to consider the initial cost.
The first is how the cost is distributed. The great thing about doing an OEM style re-wire is that you can buy the harnesses as you can afford them. This can be helpful when you are on a budget. Just as GM did, we build individual dash, engine, forward lamp, console, rear body, and other harnesses. Because of this, you can buy a dash and console now, the under hood items in a month, and the rear body harness later.
The other aspect is time. With the OEM styled harnesses, the installation time is cut by as much as 50-75%, when compared to a Classic Update kit. This is a huge consideration, especially if you are paying someone else to wire your car. Generally, the OEM harnesses can be done in a day, or about 8-10 hours as they are completely built for you and include every connector, terminal, clamp, or clip so they render a true “plug and play” experience. The kits on the other hand require you to lay out, cut and terminate all but the dash harness. Depending on the complexity of your build and how gutted the car is, 30-40 hours (and sometimes more) is not out of the question. Do the math. If you are paying someone $50/hour and it takes them 30 hours to complete the installation, that’s $1,500.00. The OEM can be done in about 10 hours, or about $500.00. In other words, the extra $300.00 you spend will save you about $700.00 on the back end of the job.
On the other hand, if your car has more than your previously listed modifications or time is less of a factor, the Classic Update kit could still be a valid option.
For an exact quote on your application, I would suggest that you contact our Sales group and explain to them what your planned build is about, and what options you may be adding now or even in the future. Or, if you would rather get a quote online, try our Factory Fit quote tool here.
The orange electric fan wire in question is a 12v keyed ignition source. Please refer to instruction sheet 500668 / Engine / sheet #3 / front light wiring / electric fan.
There has been discussion over this circuit being keyed or constant power (fans running after vehicle off).
Following the lead of GM’s decision in the early 80′s, American Autowire chose to run this as a keyed circuit, for safety reasons.
There has been discussion over this circuit being keyed or constant power (fans running after vehicle off).
Following the lead of GM’s decision in the early 80′s, American Autowire chose to run this as a keyed circuit, for safety reasons.
Autometer does not recommend using the electronic speedometer “OUT” terminal to feed the ECU. According to Autometer, their electronic speedometer “OUT” terminal generates a square wave signal. Most of the ECU’s are set to accept a sine wave signal directly from the VSS. Therefore the “OUT” terminal signal would be incompatable with what the ECU is expecting. Autometer recommends leaving the VSS to ECU lead wire that exists in the fuel injection harness intact and splicing into the “HIGH” VSS signal wire with a separate wire to feed directly to the electronic speedometer. Check your service manual for the year of the motor to identify the wire color for the VSS “HIGH” signal circuit.
In some cases the OUT terminal would work. Cruise control units that can accept a square wave signal or a sine wave signal or a square wave signal only would be one.
In some cases the OUT terminal would work. Cruise control units that can accept a square wave signal or a sine wave signal or a square wave signal only would be one.
Autometer Phantom II gauges use a backlit LED lighting system. These lights draw so little amperage that the headlight switch rheostat cannot adjust the intensity. Autometer suggests the use of the 9114 dimming module. One module can handle 6 gauges. The module is wired in series in the instrument cluster light power lead wire between the fuse panel or headlight switch and the instrument cluster. The module can be set to the desired intensity. The headlight switch rheostat should now also be able to adjust the light intensity.
Actually, you’re in luck. If you look at the engine connection instructions on any of our AAW kits, we actually address an “optional” points type connection in that section of the instructions. All that is required additional on your end is to purchase a ballast resistor, as we do not include that in our kits. The pink “12v Ign” wire that is the primary ignition feed gets wired to the “12v In” side of the resistor instead of being connected directly to the HEI. Next, take the cut off portion of that wire and connect one end of it to the “12v Out” side of the resistor and the other end to the positive side of the coil. Ring terminals are also provided in our kits to complete this connection. You will also need to make one other connection from the “12v Out” side of the resistor (or the positive side of the coil, either is OK) down to the “R” terminal on the starter to supply your ignition system with the 12 volts needed to start the car in the crank position. If you are running a later type starter that does not have an “R” terminal, you will need to contact our Sales group to purchase a special wire and diode assembly (P/N 500997) to complete
American Autowire manufactures the GM OEM replacement harnesses to the latest revision of the GM engineering blue print. In mid-year 1965, GM elected to move from a striped wire to sold color wire. Example: a black wire with a white stripe would later become a white wire. A black with a light blue stripe would later become a light blue wire. As specified on the original GM engineering print, the wire gauge, form, fit, and function of the all the circuits would conform to the latest revision of the engineering specifications. The only difference would be the solid color wires instead of the striped wires. This solid color wire change was applied across the entire Chevrolet platform and took place between February and April of 1965 depending on the model.
Great question! The goal of any of our Classic Update Series kits is to marry the needs of today’s newer technology with the ease and simplicity of an OEM application and installation. They are built with the Resto-Mod, Pro-Touring, and Modified crowds in mind. All Classic Update kits are vehicle specific. In other words, the 64-67 GTO kit (available 12/20/2010) would be correct for a 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967 Pontiac GTO, Le Mans, and Tempest ONLY. We do not recommend trying to fit a Classic Update kit to any other years/makes/models than those specified.
The dash harness on a Classic Update kit is built to install in a given location, with a specific routing sequence. This assures an exact fit into the vehicle. The mating harnesses (dash cluster, engine, front light, rear body, console, etc.) have the main connectors on them, but the wire leads are all left long for custom routing by the customer. The custom fit and installation of these mating harnesses makes for a much nicer finished product. Unlike a universal harness, Classic Update Series kits give you the proper ends, lamp sockets, terminals, and connectors, bringing the harness as close to plug and play as possible. Classic Update kits also include ignition, headlamp, and dimmer switches that are engineered to fit the car as well. These kits tend to cost a bit more than universal kits due to all the extra features provided. However, you get what you pay for! Be sure to check out the 1964-1967 GTO kit when it releases on 12/20/2010.
By nature, universal harnesses can’t provide the vehicle-specific switches, connectors, etc. mentioned above. Also, any manufacturer’s universal harness will require you to do quite a bit of cutting and splicing, which may deter some customers. Another thing to consider is that you may end up trying to splice the 30-50 year old switch end and lamp socket pigtails from your old beat-up harness onto your brand new harness, which is extremely counterproductive.
American Autowire currently manufactures three lines of universal wiring kits: Builder, Power Plus, and Highway Series. These kits tend to be less expensive than their Classic Update cousins because of lower parts, research, and manufacture costs. This does not mean that American Autowire’s universal wiring kits are of a lower quality! It just means that it was not built to fit your specific car and your car only. These kits can be useful for price shoppers, non-restoration vehicles, custom projects, etc.
Consider what you need your wiring to do and what features your car will have. Look over each of these kits to find the best fit for your project.
The dash harness on a Classic Update kit is built to install in a given location, with a specific routing sequence. This assures an exact fit into the vehicle. The mating harnesses (dash cluster, engine, front light, rear body, console, etc.) have the main connectors on them, but the wire leads are all left long for custom routing by the customer. The custom fit and installation of these mating harnesses makes for a much nicer finished product. Unlike a universal harness, Classic Update Series kits give you the proper ends, lamp sockets, terminals, and connectors, bringing the harness as close to plug and play as possible. Classic Update kits also include ignition, headlamp, and dimmer switches that are engineered to fit the car as well. These kits tend to cost a bit more than universal kits due to all the extra features provided. However, you get what you pay for! Be sure to check out the 1964-1967 GTO kit when it releases on 12/20/2010.
By nature, universal harnesses can’t provide the vehicle-specific switches, connectors, etc. mentioned above. Also, any manufacturer’s universal harness will require you to do quite a bit of cutting and splicing, which may deter some customers. Another thing to consider is that you may end up trying to splice the 30-50 year old switch end and lamp socket pigtails from your old beat-up harness onto your brand new harness, which is extremely counterproductive.
American Autowire currently manufactures three lines of universal wiring kits: Builder, Power Plus, and Highway Series. These kits tend to be less expensive than their Classic Update cousins because of lower parts, research, and manufacture costs. This does not mean that American Autowire’s universal wiring kits are of a lower quality! It just means that it was not built to fit your specific car and your car only. These kits can be useful for price shoppers, non-restoration vehicles, custom projects, etc.
Consider what you need your wiring to do and what features your car will have. Look over each of these kits to find the best fit for your project.
The issue here is discussed in another post, however, here we have introduced a situation where the 12 volt override wire physically cannot exist. There are two possible solutions to this problem. The first involves changing the ignition switch to one that supplies 12 volts on the “RUN” circuit when the ignition is in “CRANK” mode. With this type of ignition switch, a 12 volt override wire from the starter is not necessary. The second solution involves the use of a starter solenoid relay that uses the solenoid lead wire from the ignition switch to activate a relay that supplies the necessary 12 volt power to the HEI ignition coil through the HEI power terminal. When the key is released from the “CRANK” position, the relay is shut down and power to the HEI distributor is supplied through the “RUN” circuit.
HEI stands for “High Energy Ignition” or, Electronic Ignition. It can replace “points type” ignitions.
This covers a broad range of automotive manufactures and companies that make this type of distributor system. When American Autowire refers to HEI, we are referring to GM 1974 – 1980 Large Distributor Cap design*. This design has the ignition coil mounted internally on the top of the distributor cap, below the spark plug wires. This design is also commonly supplied by most of the more popular aftermarket performance ignition companies. AAW supplies the power connector to plug directly in this style cap. Other electronic distributor versions can be used by replacing the supplied power connector with the appropriate terminal and connector.
* Customers with an ECU, Small cap computerized distributor, or MSD system can still use the harness, but will have to splice our pink lead into their system.
This covers a broad range of automotive manufactures and companies that make this type of distributor system. When American Autowire refers to HEI, we are referring to GM 1974 – 1980 Large Distributor Cap design*. This design has the ignition coil mounted internally on the top of the distributor cap, below the spark plug wires. This design is also commonly supplied by most of the more popular aftermarket performance ignition companies. AAW supplies the power connector to plug directly in this style cap. Other electronic distributor versions can be used by replacing the supplied power connector with the appropriate terminal and connector.
* Customers with an ECU, Small cap computerized distributor, or MSD system can still use the harness, but will have to splice our pink lead into their system.
Battery cable kits are 1 gauge in thickness and include a crimper for the appropriate lugs.
A fusible link is similar to a fuse, it is a type of circuit protector. It is a length of wire typically 6 inches long and usually two gauge sizes smaller than the wire it is protecting. If excessive current runs through the circuit, the wire overheats and melts, breaking the circuit. When a circuit has been broken, no electricity can flow. The fusible link has a softer nonflammable insulation that bubbles to indicate when it has blown.
There is much debate over the benefit of certain wiring schemes (oxygen-free, multistranded, braided, twisted, air core, you name it). However, most people do agree that the most important factor in selecting power wire is to use the proper size. Wire is generally rated in size by American Wire Gauge, abbreviated AWG, or commonly just gauge (ga). To determine the correct wire size for your application, you should first determine the maximum current flow through the cable, this can be done by finding the amperage load of the component being powered, then determine the length of the cable that your will use, and consult the following chart.
Length of run (in feet) | ||||||||
Current | 0-4 | 4-7 | 7-10 | 10-13 | 13-16 | 16-19 | 19-22 | 22-28 |
0-20A | 14ga | 12ga | 12ga | 10ga | 10ga | 8ga | 8ga | 8ga |
20-35A | 12ga | 10ga | 8ga | 8ga | 6ga | 6ga | 6ga | 4ga |
35-50A | 10ga | 8ga | 8ga | 6ga | 6ga | 4ga | 4ga | 4ga |
50-65A | 8ga | 8ga | 6ga | 4ga | 4ga | 4ga | 4ga | 2ga |
65-85A | 6ga | 6ga | 4ga | 4ga | 2ga | 2ga | 2ga | 0ga |
85-105A | 6ga | 6ga | 4ga | 2ga | 2ga | 2ga | 2ga | 0ga |
105-125A | 4ga | 4ga | 4ga | 2ga | 2ga | 0ga | 0ga | 0ga |
125-150A | 2ga | 2ga | 2ga | 2ga | 0ga | 0ga | 0ga | 00ga |
This can be caused by a few different things.The first item to check would be the alternator. There may be a feedback to the ignition switch from the voltage regulator field exciter wire. The other scenario that we commonly see is feedback from an aftermarket ignition system that utilizes an internal relay, or both a battery and ignition source to power the system. These are fairly common problems that people experience when using many aftermarket-wiring systems. Generally, an OEM harness will not have the problem of alternator “run-on”, as there is usually a resistance wire in the dash harness to keep this from happening.
Solution: To figure out where the problem exists, start the car and with the key in the ON position and the car running, turn off the key. With the ignition turned off and the car continuing to run, simply remove the plug from the alternator (DO NOT TRY AND REMOVE THE BATTERY POWER WIRE FROM THE POWER STUD!) and the car should shut off if the alternator is creating the problem. If it does not stop running, your feedback problem is coming from something other that the alternator. If you are using an aftermarket ignition unit, check to see if there is a fix available that includes a diode to put in line on the ignition feed to keep their system from back feeding into the ignition switch. If you do not have an aftermarket ignition system in your car and it continues to run after pulling the alternator plug, you’ll want to call tech support from your harness manufacturer for help. If your car does shut off when you remove your alternator plug, you may have to put a diode in line on the field exciter wire to keep the alternator from back feeding to the ignition switch. Again check with the harness manufacturer for help.
Solution: To figure out where the problem exists, start the car and with the key in the ON position and the car running, turn off the key. With the ignition turned off and the car continuing to run, simply remove the plug from the alternator (DO NOT TRY AND REMOVE THE BATTERY POWER WIRE FROM THE POWER STUD!) and the car should shut off if the alternator is creating the problem. If it does not stop running, your feedback problem is coming from something other that the alternator. If you are using an aftermarket ignition unit, check to see if there is a fix available that includes a diode to put in line on the ignition feed to keep their system from back feeding into the ignition switch. If you do not have an aftermarket ignition system in your car and it continues to run after pulling the alternator plug, you’ll want to call tech support from your harness manufacturer for help. If your car does shut off when you remove your alternator plug, you may have to put a diode in line on the field exciter wire to keep the alternator from back feeding to the ignition switch. Again check with the harness manufacturer for help.
The fuel pump location on the Highway 22 panel is a “battery load” for a relay. This is shown on the instructions for the panel, sheet #500692. It is always best to run a fuel pump through a relay assembly as that is a constant load. While we may only be talking about a 7 to 10 amp load, it is always operating whenever the vehicle is running. By using a relay, you let the relay carry the load off of a direct battery connection (#8 on your panel), and you use an ignition trigger to activate that relay. The coil for that relay only draws about 2 to 3 amps. By setting the vehicle up this way, you have traded a 7 to 10 amp constant draw for a 2 to 3 amp constant draw which reduces the load on your ignition switch by about 5 to 7 amps. That translates into better performance from your system by allowing that extra amperage to be used elsewhere in the vehicle.
A: This problem is commonly found on GM vehicles with stock point type ignition system that use a resistor bypass circuit. The bypass circuit provides a full 12 volts to the coil when the vehicle is in the cranking position. There are typically two ways that this was achieved. The first, and most common way uses the starter solenoid that incorporates 3 studs (2 smaller and 1 large). One of the 2 smaller ones would be marked with an “R” and would have a wire attached to it that would go from that stud and then up to the positive side of the coil. The second, and more unusual way, was via a secondary blade on the ignition switch which would be marked with an “R” or IGN 2”.
The common cause for the engine to only start when the key is released is failure in the bypass circuit. There are several reasons that could cause the bypass circuit to fail:
The common cause for the engine to only start when the key is released is failure in the bypass circuit. There are several reasons that could cause the bypass circuit to fail:
- Faulty starter solenoid. This only applies when there is a 3 terminal starter solenoid in question. The starter solenoid fails to make a connection between the “S” terminal and the “R” terminal on the solenoid in the crank position. Check for 12 volts on the “R” terminal in the crank position. If there is not 12 volts, replace the starter solenoid. If there are 12 volts present, continue to number 2.
- No power at the ‘+’ side of the coil in the crank position when there is 12 volts at the “R” terminal on the starter solenoid. There is either a bad crimp on one of the 2 terminals on the bypass wire or there is a break in the wire. Repair or replace the terminals on the bypass wire or replace the wire entirely between the “R” terminal at the starter solenoid and the positive “+” side of the coil. This wire is typically yellow or pink, but can also be green, or black with either a pink or yellow stripe.
- Faulty ignition switch. This only applies when there is a 2 terminal starter solenoid as the bypass wire comes directly off of the ignition switch in that application. The ignition switch fails to make a connection between the 12 volt battery terminal and the resistor bypass terminal on the ignition switch in the crank or start position. First, check for 12 volts on the bypass wire at the positive “+” side of the coil. If there is not 12 volts present at the coil, check next at the bypass terminal on the back of the ignition switch in the crank position. If there is not 12 volts there in the crank position, replace the switch, as it is bad. If the is 12 volts at the terminal, continue to number 4. This wire is typically yellow or pink, but can also be green or black with either a pink or yellow stripe.
- If there power at the bypass terminal on the ignition switch, but no power at the ‘+’ side of the coil in the crank position, there is either a bad crimp on one of the 2 terminals on the bypass wire or there is a break in the wire. Repair or replace the terminals on the bypass wire or replace the wire entirely between the “R” terminal at the ignition switch and the “+” side of the coil.
You don’t have to solder this connection as the mechanical crimp is so good. However, the crimp tool does not produce the crimp that a factory crimp machine would yield. Therefore, because this is such a critical connection, we recommend that, in this case, the crimp be followed up by soldering.
Automotive lighting is a lot like the light inside your refrigerator. You don’t really think about it until things aren’t working.
That’s why our Factory Fit and Classic Update kits include original-replacement lamp sockets. It’s one of the little things that make us unique in the industry.
As an added bonus, this means your existing bulbs (or a correct original-replacement bulb) will work with the sockets we supply with our harnesses.
Not sure what those bulbs were? Sylvania has a very handy bulb replacement guide for both vintage and late model vehicles. If you’re using one of our harnesses, you can be confident the new lamps will plug right in!
In various applications, the approach MAY differ slightly. When connecting up the positive cable that lead will eventually locate to the battery terminal on your solenoid or starter. We show you how to wire the main power feed for any of our systems to that same location on any of our instructions sets typically. Some systems may use an external solenoid such as a Ford type system, others may have a disconnect in-line, and others yet may have a pass thru type system in the firewall or alike. Ultimately though, the power will have to install onto the positive post on the solenoid or starter. As far as the negative is concerned, it is always best to ground that cable directly to the engine block. It is also imperative that the block be well grounded to the body and chassis as well.
Building a custom or street rod vehicle? American Autowire offers three product lines for custom and street rod wiring: Highway Series, Power Plus Series, and the Builder Series. Here you can compare the three lines to find right product for your project!
Click the link below to view a chart comparing the features of American Autowire’s three Custom/Street Rod product lines.
Custom/Street Rod Kit Comparison
Click the link below to view a chart comparing the features of American Autowire’s three Custom/Street Rod product lines.
Custom/Street Rod Kit Comparison
Great question! Factory Fit harnesses are all built exact to the original GM engineering drawings and are complete down to the very last, clip, clamp, lamp socket, and connector to insure the user a true “plug and play” experience. As such, there are far too many different applications and configurations to offer these types of harnesses in “KIT” form. Things like body style, gauges or idiot lights, console, floor shift without console, or column shift, factory air or not, 4 speed or automatic trans, etc. are just a few of the considerations when specking out any given vehicle.
We have found that with a few simple questions answered over the phone, or by using our online OEM Vehicle Quote Tool, your particular vehicle can be identified, and the proper part numbers supplied for your exact application.
We have found that with a few simple questions answered over the phone, or by using our online OEM Vehicle Quote Tool, your particular vehicle can be identified, and the proper part numbers supplied for your exact application.
It is true that a lot of hot rod enthusiasts want to be able to have the fan running after the vehicle is turned off. The thought is that the water temperature will be better controlled by doing so. Actually, when the fan is running in this fashion, it is only cooling water in the radiator and has no effect on the water remaining in the engine. At that point, you are just increasing the drain on your battery.
The design of the headlight system for our kits centers on the use of a GM type headlight switch. This switch contains an internal 28 amp automatically resetting circuit breaker in the power input circuit. Except in rare instances, this will handle the requirements of the headlights, including many halogen headlights. You should never run your headlight circuit with a fuse. If there is a failure in the headlight circuit at night and loose your headlights, you have no way to see where to bring the car to a safe stop. With a resetting breaker, you get the on/off action of the breaker that does not completely disable the circuit. At the minimum, you can get the car to a safe place so that you can diagnose the source of the failure. American Autowire’s Highway Series kits include this switch but also include a headlight circuit protected by a 30 amp automatically resetting circuit breaker mounted on the fuse panel. We realize that some people prefer a different style of headlight switch than the one we use in our kits and it might not be protected by a circuit breaker. The panel mounted breaker solves this problem. Both the panel mounted and internal breakers can be used together in the headlight circuit. The headlight switch breaker would trip first in a failure situation.
It is assumed, like with any hi-amp accessory, that a relay will be used to power the fuel pump. The relay will be activated through an ignition fed source, thus allowing the fuel pump to turn off when the key is turned off.
The most likely reason that our site is not displaying correctly is because you are using an older version of Internet Explorer (version 6 or earlier). When viewed with Internet Explorer 6 (IE 6) or less, some of the text elements on the page can be misplaced. If you are using IE 6 or earlier and experiencing these problems, here are a few suggestions to help you view our website:
1. Update your Internet Explorer. Click here to upgrade to the latest version of IE. Our site is completely compatible with and displays correctly on Internet Explorer 7 & 8.
2. Use a different web browser. Please be aware that Internet Explorer is NOT the only web browser available to you and that not all browsers are created equal. Some other browsers that can be downloaded and installed FOR FREE are: Firefox, Opera, and Google Chrome to mention a few. These three display this site and other sites correctly. Please see the “A Little About Web Browsers” section below explaining more about web browsers and the differences among them.
3. If you are not comfortable with downloading a new browser, or you just want to view the text right now, you can simply click and drag your mouse over the text to highlight it. This should render enough contrast to be able to read the text.
A Little About Web Browsers
For those who don’t know, a web browser is a program that your computer uses to view websites on the internet. Internet Explorer is a web browser that comes standard on PCs using Windows (computers that use the Windows operating system are usually referred to as PCs). In general, the majority of people have PCs, as opposed to Macs(Apple) or Linux computers, so therefore most people browse the internet with Internet Explorer because it is already conveniently installed on their computer. As stated above, Internet Explorer (IE) is not the only web browser out there. Firefox, Opera, and Google Chrome are all available for Windows. These browsers are FREE, safe, and reliable.
Please note that the following opinions are not necessarily those of American Autowire, Inc., just what I, as a web designer and avid web user, have found to be true.
It seems that many users get stuck in a rut of convenience. They use IE because they have always used it. It’s convenient and familiar and gets them from point A to point B on the internet. What I fear about these people is that they don’t realize what they are missing.
I never use IE, unless I am testing a website. I find it to be unpolished, clunky, and bogged down by security issues. My personal preference is Firefox. It is slick, reliable, customizable (colors, themes, add-ons), and displays both text and images wonderfully. Firefox is made by a company called Mozilla. They were one of the first to offer a reliable and more secure alternative web browser to IE. They also make Thunderbird email client, along with many other programs, which I also recommend.
Firefox, Safari (Mac only), Opera, and Chrome all display web pages in a much more visually pleasing way. Edges are smooth, text looks less pixelated, and spacing is easier on the eye. If you view the same website with Internet Explorer and with one of the above browsers and hold them side by side, you will be amazed at the difference.
This appeals to me not only as a web user, but also as a web designer. Firefox, Safari (Mac only), Opera, and Google Chrome all display web pages the way I designed them to look. There can be small variations between them, but nothing serious enough to lose any sleep over. Then, there’s IE. Without getting too technical, I will just say that web browsers read code languages, which they then convert into words, colors, shapes, etc. that display on web pages. A group called the W3C defines and publishes the agreed way to write and interpret these code languages. If a web designer writes their website code to these W3C standards, 9.9 times out of 10, their website will display perfectly in browsers like Firefox, Safari, Opera, and Chrome. This is not always the case with Internet Explorer. It seems that IE interprets some of these properties differently, resulting in an inaccurate, and in the case of this website, totally incorrect display of a website. What this means to a web designer is we often have to write two sets of code, telling the website to use set A for Internet Explorer and set B for anything else. You may ask, “Why bother?”. The answer is that we must accommodate every user, and since most people still use IE, designers have to cater to browser that is not technically following the rules. Leaving out such a large group could mean losing business, contact with important people, fans, etc.
Now I know that most users don’t want to hear the sob stories of web designers and at the end of the day, don’t care what we had to do to get the website to work, just that it looks the same from every computer that they use. That is absolutely a fair expectation, and the final choice is certainly up to the user. And I’m not saying IE is all bad. There are certainly worse things in this world than a mediocre web browser. All I ask is that you try something besides IE. Some of you might say, “I don’t really care that much” or “I don’t go online enough to go through the trouble of downloading another browser”. Like I said, the choice is yours, but I think that the sporadic internet user, the hardcore user, and everyone in between could benefit from shopping around a bit. So, please, check out Firefox, Opera, or Google Chrome. Sure, it makes it easier on us web designers, but you just may find yourself having a markedly better internet experience.
Thanks for reading,
Megan Manning
Media Design Artist, American Autowire
1. Update your Internet Explorer. Click here to upgrade to the latest version of IE. Our site is completely compatible with and displays correctly on Internet Explorer 7 & 8.
2. Use a different web browser. Please be aware that Internet Explorer is NOT the only web browser available to you and that not all browsers are created equal. Some other browsers that can be downloaded and installed FOR FREE are: Firefox, Opera, and Google Chrome to mention a few. These three display this site and other sites correctly. Please see the “A Little About Web Browsers” section below explaining more about web browsers and the differences among them.
3. If you are not comfortable with downloading a new browser, or you just want to view the text right now, you can simply click and drag your mouse over the text to highlight it. This should render enough contrast to be able to read the text.
A Little About Web Browsers
For those who don’t know, a web browser is a program that your computer uses to view websites on the internet. Internet Explorer is a web browser that comes standard on PCs using Windows (computers that use the Windows operating system are usually referred to as PCs). In general, the majority of people have PCs, as opposed to Macs(Apple) or Linux computers, so therefore most people browse the internet with Internet Explorer because it is already conveniently installed on their computer. As stated above, Internet Explorer (IE) is not the only web browser out there. Firefox, Opera, and Google Chrome are all available for Windows. These browsers are FREE, safe, and reliable.
Please note that the following opinions are not necessarily those of American Autowire, Inc., just what I, as a web designer and avid web user, have found to be true.
It seems that many users get stuck in a rut of convenience. They use IE because they have always used it. It’s convenient and familiar and gets them from point A to point B on the internet. What I fear about these people is that they don’t realize what they are missing.
I never use IE, unless I am testing a website. I find it to be unpolished, clunky, and bogged down by security issues. My personal preference is Firefox. It is slick, reliable, customizable (colors, themes, add-ons), and displays both text and images wonderfully. Firefox is made by a company called Mozilla. They were one of the first to offer a reliable and more secure alternative web browser to IE. They also make Thunderbird email client, along with many other programs, which I also recommend.
Firefox, Safari (Mac only), Opera, and Chrome all display web pages in a much more visually pleasing way. Edges are smooth, text looks less pixelated, and spacing is easier on the eye. If you view the same website with Internet Explorer and with one of the above browsers and hold them side by side, you will be amazed at the difference.
This appeals to me not only as a web user, but also as a web designer. Firefox, Safari (Mac only), Opera, and Google Chrome all display web pages the way I designed them to look. There can be small variations between them, but nothing serious enough to lose any sleep over. Then, there’s IE. Without getting too technical, I will just say that web browsers read code languages, which they then convert into words, colors, shapes, etc. that display on web pages. A group called the W3C defines and publishes the agreed way to write and interpret these code languages. If a web designer writes their website code to these W3C standards, 9.9 times out of 10, their website will display perfectly in browsers like Firefox, Safari, Opera, and Chrome. This is not always the case with Internet Explorer. It seems that IE interprets some of these properties differently, resulting in an inaccurate, and in the case of this website, totally incorrect display of a website. What this means to a web designer is we often have to write two sets of code, telling the website to use set A for Internet Explorer and set B for anything else. You may ask, “Why bother?”. The answer is that we must accommodate every user, and since most people still use IE, designers have to cater to browser that is not technically following the rules. Leaving out such a large group could mean losing business, contact with important people, fans, etc.
Now I know that most users don’t want to hear the sob stories of web designers and at the end of the day, don’t care what we had to do to get the website to work, just that it looks the same from every computer that they use. That is absolutely a fair expectation, and the final choice is certainly up to the user. And I’m not saying IE is all bad. There are certainly worse things in this world than a mediocre web browser. All I ask is that you try something besides IE. Some of you might say, “I don’t really care that much” or “I don’t go online enough to go through the trouble of downloading another browser”. Like I said, the choice is yours, but I think that the sporadic internet user, the hardcore user, and everyone in between could benefit from shopping around a bit. So, please, check out Firefox, Opera, or Google Chrome. Sure, it makes it easier on us web designers, but you just may find yourself having a markedly better internet experience.
Thanks for reading,
Megan Manning
Media Design Artist, American Autowire
Key Features of American Autowire Wiring Kits
1. Rock Solid Panel:
Able to be placed in locations not limited to the Dash/Firewall area.
2. Wires Connected as Needed:
Avoids handling clumps of wires
3. 1-Sided Panel Connections:
Provides neat dressing of wires
4. Unique Connections:
Uses self-locking screw down connection to panel according to Hooke’s Law
5. Excellent Connection:
Strength: Demonstrable pull test according to Hooke’s Law using a “U PULL IT” prop
6. Heavier Gauge Wiring:
All bus bars are 6 gauge (instead of 10) preventing overheating even with a full load of accessories
7. Fuse Connection Terminal:
Uses a unique spring steel clip between the “McDonald Arches” preventing loose connections or hot spots
8. Heavier Fused Circuits:
All power circuits are 12 gauge (rated for 40 Amps). In case of an over load, the panel fuses (30 Amps Max) will blow protecting the wires.
9. Protected Feed Wire:
The panel feed wire on the Highway 22 is 8 gauge and protected by a 175 Amp MegaFuse™ Safety Device
10. Modular Panel:
Allows for expansion and is all plastic, non metal construction
11. Legible Wiring:
American Autowire’s marking is the BEST in the industry using a larger, clearer print and marked every 2-3 inches
12. Full Color Instructions:
Our Wiring Instructions and Schematics are detailed in full color with step-by-step procedures to make wiring easy
1. Rock Solid Panel:
Able to be placed in locations not limited to the Dash/Firewall area.
2. Wires Connected as Needed:
Avoids handling clumps of wires
3. 1-Sided Panel Connections:
Provides neat dressing of wires
4. Unique Connections:
Uses self-locking screw down connection to panel according to Hooke’s Law
5. Excellent Connection:
Strength: Demonstrable pull test according to Hooke’s Law using a “U PULL IT” prop
6. Heavier Gauge Wiring:
All bus bars are 6 gauge (instead of 10) preventing overheating even with a full load of accessories
7. Fuse Connection Terminal:
Uses a unique spring steel clip between the “McDonald Arches” preventing loose connections or hot spots
8. Heavier Fused Circuits:
All power circuits are 12 gauge (rated for 40 Amps). In case of an over load, the panel fuses (30 Amps Max) will blow protecting the wires.
9. Protected Feed Wire:
The panel feed wire on the Highway 22 is 8 gauge and protected by a 175 Amp MegaFuse™ Safety Device
10. Modular Panel:
Allows for expansion and is all plastic, non metal construction
11. Legible Wiring:
American Autowire’s marking is the BEST in the industry using a larger, clearer print and marked every 2-3 inches
12. Full Color Instructions:
Our Wiring Instructions and Schematics are detailed in full color with step-by-step procedures to make wiring easy
Yes. The fuel pump wire in the accessory connector on any of our Classic Update kits is an “ignition load” for a relay. The instructions for any of the Classic Update kits will show this when checking the wire functions on the “accessory plug”. It is always best to run a fuel pump through a relay assembly as the operation of that pump is a constant load. While we may only be talking about a 7 to 10 amp load, it is always operating whenever the vehicle is running. By using a relay, you let the relay carry the load off of a direct battery connection which you make, and you use our “fuel pump” wire an ignition trigger to activate that relay. The coil for that relay only draws about 2 to 3 amps. By setting the vehicle up this way, you have traded a 7 to 10 amp constant draw for a 2 to 3 amp constant draw which reduces the load on your ignition switch by about 5 to 7 amps. That translates into better performance from your system by allowing that extra amperage to be used elsewhere in the vehicle.
Yes. Unplug the beige connector (GM SI series alternator) containing the brown exciter wire and the red sensor wire from the alternator and tape it back against the harness. The heavy red power wire is all that is required for a single wire alternator. As one wire alternators are self exciting, they typically have the exciter plug cavity blocked off to prevent the possibility of plugging in an exciter wire connector.